Safariland Comp III question

[matteekay]

Hey there Classic shooters, L6 guy here. Why does the Comp III have those little tabs around the rim? It seems like they stop the loader from going all the way down to the cylinder... but why would that be a bad thing?

[RangerMcFadden]

They’re so they can stand upright when empty. I found they fall off with normal use.

 

As per your concern: Depth doesn’t matter. You’re just as fast loading with a cut down comp 3 as you are with a stock one.

 

The problem with the stock one is that the shroud, for lack of better term, can strip out rounds after your reload.

 

Cutting down comp 3s make you consistent, not faster.

[RePete]

Look here.

 

 

[pskys2]

19 hours ago, RePete said:

Look here.

 

 

Roger Davis posted this many years ago, can't find the pictures though.

 

Comp III and Jet Loader Modifications
 
The process is this:  With the Safariland comp III’s have a two piece top with a 
pin hole on one side.  Heat a straightened paperclip and push it through the 
existing hole to mark the other side and drill a small hole back to the steel 
roll pin.  The Jet loaders have the hole all the way through.  Push the roll pin 
through the hole and remove the top so that the shroud and large coil spring can 
be removed.  Toss the shroud, I don’t know why t is there in the first place.
 
In the center of the loader is another pin, push it out carefully as there a 
small coil spring in the trigger mechanism.  This should allow you to separate 
the part that the rounds fit into from the rest.  Using a belt sander, or 
similar device, remove the part down to about .2 of inch
 
Use an exacto knife or similar to remove the plastic that will fill the holes 
where the rounds fit.
 
And then reassemble paying attention to the right tension of the coil spring  
before putting the top back on.  I would disassemble and work on only one at a 
time until you get confident with the process.
 
Bill Nesbitt used a dremel and cut the parts down with a cutoff  wheel.  I could 
not keep the surface flat and it will take several wheels to do the job.
 
When completed there is usually a hole in the trigger mechanism that I fill with 
epoxy or a steel pin to engage that much sooner.
 

I later took the circumference at the base down to give more room between the 
edge of the speedloader and Frame.  One on the left is loaded with 38 shortcolt 
and the other is loaded with 38 specials.  Notice how small amount of the base 
is necessary to hold the rounds in
 
The reason for the modification is that it will allow you to load without having 
perfect alignment on the cylinder.  It also will stop the rounds from being 
pulled back out of the cylinder when the mechanism is released.

[Toolguy]

I did all of mine that way a long time ago. It works like a champ. It allows the rounds to release and clear the speedloader sooner than normal, and not hang up. The only downside is you can't load them without a loading block. I always used a loading block anyway, as it allows you to look at all the primers before putting the speedloader on.

[RePete]

Found the link with pics.

 

http://4wheelguns.com/RPerdue/?page_id=34