.223 issues with 1050.

[XL6504ME]

I have been loading .223 on my 1050 shooting them thru a colt 6920 no issues,   I recently built an all Aero  AR15 and it doesn't like the reloads at all but will shoot factory ammo.     I went out and bought a case gauge probably should have done that from the start.   The factory ammo drops right in the gauge no problem, most of the reloads go in just fine but not as easy as the factory, some you have to push down and seem too tight.  the ones that are tight I pulled the bullets checked the case length and they are under the 1.760 max dimension I put them back in the case gauge after running them thru the resizing die again same problem they won't go down without some effort.  The resizing die is bottom out on the shell plate, so I don't know what to do  ??    I called dillion and I'm so far down the list it will take months to get a reply.  

[Guy Neill]

Do you have a small base sizing die that you can try to see if that will make a difference?

[jejb]

Sounds like a sizing die issue. I use the RCBS TC .223 dies in my 1100. The reloads almost all pass my Hornady case gauge, and I check every one of them. 

 

BTW, I would not push the shells into the case gauge. That may eventually open up the case gauge, defeating its purpose. If they don't just plunk in flush, they didn't pass. 

[Don_B]

7 hours ago, Guy Neill said:

Do you have a small base sizing die that you can try to see if that will make a difference?

If you already have small base sizing die you may have to lower it some. I had to adjust mine to where it touched the shell plate then went slightly lower until the press cams over just a little. 

[AHI]

sizing die must cam over not just touch. Next Iprocess my own brass on a 1050. That tool head including the trimer sizes the case 3 times. On the loading head is another sizing die( use hornady one shot case lube). I am using range brass you never know what you are getting. This has eliminated all case gauge failures. Before that had random failures to chamber in main match gun.

[Tom Freeman]

Be 100% sure you are setting up your FL resize die to bump the case shoulder back about 2-3 thousandths.

[XL6504ME]

1 hour ago, Tom Freeman said:

Be 100% sure you are setting up your FL resize die to bump the case shoulder back about 2-3 thousandths.

 I don't understand ??  

[XL6504ME]

3 hours ago, AHI said:

sizing die must cam over not just touch. Next Iprocess my own brass on a 1050. That tool head including the trimer sizes the case 3 times. On the loading head is another sizing die( use hornady one shot case lube). I am using range brass you never know what you are getting. This has eliminated all case gauge failures. Before that had random failures to chamber in main match gun.

how can I cam over when the reloading handle bottoms out ?     I starting to think all this extra work for plinking isn't worth the effort.   

[Boomstick303]

Eric Cortina is a long range shooter but the basics apply for any rifle ammo.  The specs for AR rifles are not as critical as they are for PRS rigs, but shoulder bump does need to be checked.  I mostly used the video to understand how to measure shoulder bump and set the die properly.

 

Using the measuring information for properly sizing your shoulder bump.  I use new ammo that my guns like and use that as a baseline shoulder bump on those unfired casings.  Use the proper tools to measure shoulder bump of the brass fired from your rifle(s) and then adjust the die properly to ensure the shoulder bump is returned to the baseline measurement.

 

If you do not understand this principle already, you may want to take some more time to learn about loading rifle rounds.  There is more to it than there is to loading pistol rounds.

 

 

[AHI]

1 hour ago, XL6504ME said:

how can I cam over when the reloading handle bottoms out ?     I starting to think all this extra work for plinking isn't worth the effort.   

Turn the die in more. You will feel it cam over. Also watch the video above.

Edited January 29, 2022 by AHI

[XL6504ME]

1 hour ago, AHI said:

Turn the die in more. You will feel it cam over. Also watch the video above.

ok the cam over did the trick now they are going into the case gauge with a plop Thank you very much!!    I'm assuming if you give them too much cam they will go below the gauge limits?  I turned the die down until it touched the shell plate then turned it two flats.

 

Next dumb question, if I took the decapping pin out of the fl sizing die could I run the loaded ammo back thru it or is that a bad idea?    

Edited January 29, 2022 by XL6504ME

[Don_B]

Bad idea. The die sizes the case smaller than bullet diameter so you would ruin those rounds. You can pull the bullets then resize the cases without the decapping pin in the die. 

[XL6504ME]

1 minute ago, Don_B said:

Bad idea. The die sizes the case smaller than bullet diameter so you would ruin those rounds. You can pull the bullets then resize the cases without the decapping pin in the die. 

  ok thank you.  

 

[VortecMAX]

I set mine up so the shoulder is at or slightly below the shoulder position on a 1.4646" "go" gage for semi-auto.  You need a bump comparison gage for that.  Measure the "go" gage using the comparitor, then set your shoulder bump to match (or be back a small amount).  The measurements always vary a bit, so I try to set it so some will be a little under, but none will be over.  Factory rounds are usually in the same range.  I don't reload for just one rifle, so I have to have rounds that feed in everything.

 

Mike

 

Edited February 14, 2022 by VortecMAX
Added gage dimension

[MJC082581]

As most said, you need to mash that sizing die into the shell plate. Some also mentioned shaving the die. I’ve done that method and it works great. However, if you go that route, make sure you are taking measurements when you set it up. If you take too much off the die, and set it up like a normal sizing die, you can over size the brass 

[XL6504ME]

On 2/18/2022 at 2:58 AM, MJC082581 said:

As most said, you need to mash that sizing die into the shell plate. Some also mentioned shaving the die. I’ve done that method and it works great. However, if you go that route, make sure you are taking measurements when you set it up. If you take too much off the die, and set it up like a normal sizing die, you can over size the brass 

what do you mean by shaving the die? 

 

[XL6504ME]

On 2/14/2022 at 9:32 AM, VortecMAX said:

I set mine up so the shoulder is at or slightly below the shoulder position on a 1.4646" "go" gage for semi-auto.  You need a bump comparison gage for that.  Measure the "go" gage using the comparitor, then set your shoulder bump to match (or be back a small amount).  The measurements always vary a bit, so I try to set it so some will be a little under, but none will be over.  Factory rounds are usually in the same range.  I don't reload for just one rifle, so I have to have rounds that feed in everything.

 

Mike

 

I got the guage and by just over caming it they all work perfect now, ran about 300 rounds with no issues.  other than I'm running out of primers

 

[MJC082581]

5 hours ago, XL6504ME said:

what do you mean by shaving the die? 

 

You can get a few thousands taken off the bottom of the die which will allow you to get it further down without having to over cam the press

[XL6504ME]

ok thank you is over caming the press bad for it? 

[Blacktail 8541]

No, camming over is normal and presses are designed for it.