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Pull Weight Seems High on New P80 Build, Where Did I Go Wrong???


EngineerEli

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I have done a lot of searching but have not been able to find the culprit. If I missed an obvious post please feel free to link me.

 

Anyway, I was looking for something fun this winter so I decided to do a P80 build. I went with a full size G17 style. This is my first Glock (style) gun because I never liked the grip, the P80 being closer to 1911 grip angle is much better, but the front of the grip is still a little square. For that reason, I'm still learning the trigger system, and what areas are the most critical to trigger pull. I admit, I tried to minimize costs, so there is a chance the reason for my issues is cheap parts, but I would think bending, filing, sanding, and polishing can overcome most deficiencies. Heck, I have $250 DBFS9 that I did a trigger job on and it's quite satisfying. I did go threaded barrel in case I decide to mess around with a comp and go open with it, but for now its just a fun project / experiment / learning experience.

 

With this build the lowest I have been able to get the trigger pull is about 7 lb 3oz. It does drop down a little lower with the slide lock removed... From my research this set up should be yielding a 4-5 lb pull I thought... Also if I remove the slide and pull the trigger forward, just before the trigger safety engages, then let it return slowly, I can still feel gritty ness, and it gets hung up. Does not make it all the way back on its own, when I pull the trigger it moves back about another 1-2 mm.

 

Parts and actions taken:

- Unbranded parts kit, in P80 FS940V2 Frame Stainless slide

- 4 Lb Striker Spring

- 6 Lb trigger spring, also trying the stock one with the kit, which actually feels better than the 6...

- Reduced FPB spring

- Polished FPB

- Polished trigger bar (crusaform?)

- Polished striker

- Polished disco

- Polished right side rear frame rail section that sandwiches the trigger bar

- Disco bent so that it should have minimal drag. Tried to line up the inside top edge with the top corner of the trigger housing. I went a little too far, and the reset got very weak, so I bent it back out slightly from there.

 

Any ideas on what I can take a look at, tweak, fit, polish?

 

Thanks All!

c20220119_072954.jpg

c20220117_140823.jpg

Edited by EngineerEli
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Another thing that may be a clue to something is the action of the trigger in its current state. People always say Glocks have a rolling trigger unless you go with something like an 8 lb connector. The standard connector in my parts kit, i believe to be a 5.5, but my trigger pulls with relative ease back to a pretty defined wall, I sometimes feel the trigger go back another half a millimeter with a little extra pressure, then I just keep applying more and more pressure until the trigger breaks, no more movement ahead of the break. I actually prefer this style of 'crisp' trigger since I come from mostly single action guns, but I really wish the trigger broke between 4 and 5 lbs, 7+ is a little much , and seems like way too much for the springs and parts I have installed...

Edited by EngineerEli
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Hard to tell without checking out the gun myself but the problem you describe may be the trigger bar hitting the frame before the sear is released. Look at your frame and trigger bar as you pull the trigger to see if the bar hits the frame where it is indicated in the picture. If it is hitting you might have to remove some material from the frame to let the trigger bar go back further. This is a picture I borrowed from another post to show you where to check.

Glock trigger bae.jpeg

Edited by bubba72
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I just looked at it again, and thought about it a little more and I guess I jumped to conclusions on that solution. I have over travel after the striker releases, and its not like I get the trigger to the rearmost travel then only after squeezing really hard that it releases. I'm thinking that's not it...

 

Since I'm comfortable with most forms of modification, and the worst case scenario is I have to get a replacement Glock part. I'd like to identify what the actual problem is and try to fix it, instead of just throwing more parts at it. I'm realizing the Glock trigger system is so simple, there just aren't that many things to go wrong... I can also mention that I did at one point have the trigger spring hook going around the side of the trigger bar instead of its proper place on the bottom and that made the trigger pull way worse, so now I know to make sure it is facing straight down.

 

Other ideas of things to check?

 

 

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Nope... Its is my only Glock platform... 

 

I mean what should my pull weight be for the parts and polishing I have. Am I in the ballpark? It seems high to me. If I look in the crack between the slide and the frame, I can see as I pull, the trigger bar makes contact with the connector, starts moving down just slightly, then I hit the wall, which I guess means I'm trying to pull the sear down off the striker. Things just seem heavier and not as smooth as they should be, but I feel like I have polished all the sliding surfaces. It honestly feels like the wings on the trigger bar are dragging on the trigger housing, as the end of it slides down the connector. Even with the slide off, I can feel this dragging... Do people ever need to take material off the front of the wings, or off the ramped surfaces they interface on the trigger housing? I have been thinking about trying a Ghost 5 lb Tactical connector. I hear that moves the striker release point rearward a little, I wonder if that would improve anything...

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It wasn't terrible but I did notice that. any... did end up putting the stock one back in that came with the kit and I agree it feels better. Didn't seem to change the pull weight much if any...

 

Sounds like my pull weight is still about 2 lbs higher than it should be...

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I have a Glock 41 that I am trying to get down to 4 lbs. No polishing has been done on anything. I noticed that with aftermarket competition connector and spring kit it was still at 6.5 lbs. I usually add the factory glock minus connector . When I added it the trigger pull dropped to 4.5 lbs. Perhaps it’s worth a try.

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34 minutes ago, Mustang684 said:

I have a Glock 41 that I am trying to get down to 4 lbs. No polishing has been done on anything. I noticed that with aftermarket competition connector and spring kit it was still at 6.5 lbs. I usually add the factory glock minus connector . When I added it the trigger pull dropped to 4.5 lbs. Perhaps it’s worth a try.

If you had a minus connector in your pistol and changed it to a OEM Glock minus connector there would be very little difference in trigger pull weight. No connector made reduces the trigger pull weight in a Glock by more than 2# and  I have tested the trigger pull weight before and after parts changes on a very large number of Glocks.

 

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Sure that makes logical sense…but when I changed from the aftermarket competition part to the factory glock part I measured 2 lbs less with my trigger gauge .Can’t explain why but I started with unpolished Oem and added a lighter usb and recoil spring and 3.5 connector and it only dropped from 7.5 to 6.5 lbs. Adding the Glock part dropped it to 4.5 lbs. I also had a G34 gen 5 with aftermarket 3.5 that was doubling. I added the factory minus connector and the problem went away..

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The after market part . Was junk. That's why a lot of people say not to change parts. I don't fully agree with that. Buy have seen that all parts are not created equal. Some are down right trash.

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In your second set of pictures it looks like the cruciform bracket that holds the trigger return spring could be rubbing against the trigger housing. Can't magnify the image enough to tell for sure but you might check that out. If the bracket is rubbing the housing just remove some metal from the bracket to get clearance it will not affect the brackets function as all it does is anchor the trigger return spring.

 

Also check the clearance of the trigger bar to the frame where the trigger bar rubs against the trigger connector. If the trigger bar is adjusted out to far from the housing it will force the end of the trigger bar against the frame and cause extra friction. You can remove metal from the rear of the trigger bar to get more clearance if needed. I would not remove more than .010 to .015 from the bar if needed. The other way you could get more clearance is to remove material from the frame just go easy if you do.

 

Another thing to check is with the slide off pull the trigger and see if the cruciform drags on the trigger housing as it is pulled up over the housing. Looking down on the bracket it would be the right hand side of the cruciform bracket if it is dragging on the housing remove some plastic from the edge of the housing.

Edited by bubba72
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On 1/21/2022 at 7:10 PM, Mustang684 said:

Sure that makes logical sense…but when I changed from the aftermarket competition part to the factory glock part I measured 2 lbs less with my trigger gauge .Can’t explain why but I started with unpolished Oem and added a lighter usb and recoil spring and 3.5 connector and it only dropped from 7.5 to 6.5 lbs. Adding the Glock part dropped it to 4.5 lbs. I also had a G34 gen 5 with aftermarket 3.5 that was doubling. I added the factory minus connector and the problem went away..

Doubling can also be caused by issues with a firing pin.

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I actually figured out a few things...

 

I took the trigger return spring out, then put everything back together, and felt the action. I also tried sliding the trigger bar in the rear assembly with the trigger out of the frame, then tried putting the trigger and pin in with out the rear trigger housing installed, with and without the slide lock in place, to isolate where the friction was really coming from.

 

First I was getting a lot of drag from the slide lock spring. It was bent in such a way that the trigger was dragging on it badly. I recontoured that, and actually reduced the pull by maybe 8 oz or more. I also removed a little material off the side of the trigger spring arm on the crusiform to clearance it from the trigger housing, and beveled the trigger housing a little to make sure it was not dragging. I then broke the edges a little better on my FPB and smoothed the FPB lifter and re-polished both. The resulting trigger is definitely smother, and I'm now getting an average 5 lb 9 oz pull. (I did put the 6 lb trigger spring back in it) Could be a little more in it, but this is much better given the simple parts I started with.

 

Is 5 lb 9 oz starting to sound reasonable for a 6 lb trigger spring and 4 lb striker spring and otherwise stock parts. I know I should go up to 4.5 for reliability, but I'll change that out at some point...

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