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Glock trigger hanging up on reset, trigger bar gets caught and doesn’t pop up to catch striker if trigger has any rearward pressure on it


Bunnies4r5

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Hello,

I want to start by saying I am a Glock armorer and know at least the gen 5 intimately. I am having an issue where my trigger bar does not pop all the way up if the trigger is held to the rear of the gun. I am using a standard 5.5 connector, Johnny glock polished and stoned OEM trigger that works just fine in 2 other guns. gen 5 g45 frame and gen 5 g19 slide. Let’s remove the slide from the equation as I can replicate this problem with out the slide by holding the trigger to the rear and releasing tension on the connector. it starts to pop up and then hangs up somewhere. At first I thought it was hanging up on the overtravel screw but it If I put a completely OEM trigger also with an overtravel screw it doesn’t hang up. I have multiple of his triggers, I have gone part by part swapping them out and nothing fixes it, and again it is only in this frame, any other frame and it’s good to go.

things I have ruled out:

the slide as I can replicate without the slide

connector bend angle is as it should be and can also be replicated with multiple connectors.

when checking for frame pinching between connector and frame by pulling trigger bar forward slightly and letting go it moves back with out any catching or stalling.

trigger return spring is properly installed

Have tested with multiple trigger housings 

connector is all the way in housing, fits tight and does not catch on the trigger housing

happens with multiple trigger bars so that is ruled out
__
I think there is an issue somewhere in the frame, I can take all these different trigger bars, connectors etc and put them into my g19 frame and there is no problem. 

Is there anywhere on the left side of the frame that the cruciform of the trigger bar can hang up on? It seems like the the right side of cruciform starts to pop up while the left side catches. it seems like it’s the overtravel screw but I don’t think it is, I have even changed the screw to One from my other working guns and same issue.

could there be a tolerance issue between the trigger pin holes and the housing pin holes? It seems the bar is flexing somehow causing the hang up

I am completely stumped I have spent hours and hours trying to identify the issue and I just can’t figure it out.

Johnny has suggested a frame tolerance issue maybe the pin holes being off ever so slightly. This frame does have pretty tight holes even for a new frame. I have tried measuring with digital calipers and they seem to be the same but it could be the relation between the trigger pin and the housing pin maybe?

 

I am really out of ideas. I can take this exact same trigger, put it in my g19 frame and it runs flawlessly, this is also the second complete assembly he has sent me so I really don’t think it’s his system as I have 4 of his triggers and they all run flawlessly

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It sounds like one thing you haven’t tried is to put in all factory stock Glock parts to bring it back to its original condition and see if it works or not. 
 

if that does work, you can start replacing a part at a time until it stops working. That “may” identify the problem. Sometimes it’s a combination of parts, so you may want to repeat the above process but swap parts in a different order to determine what is happening. 

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3 hours ago, Cuz said:

It sounds like one thing you haven’t tried is to put in all factory stock Glock parts to bring it back to its original condition and see if it works or not. 
 

if that does work, you can start replacing a part at a time until it stops working. That “may” identify the problem. Sometimes it’s a combination of parts, so you may want to repeat the above process but swap parts in a different order to determine what is happening. 


I have done this, with all OEM parts it works. Even with all OEM parts and a overtravel screw it works. Part by part it stops working with any Johnny glock trigger bar which is an OEM trigger bar. but it happens with all 3 of his bars, they also have a flat face aluminum shoe.

 

I think there is a frame tolerance issue causing the bar to flex and because they have a metal shoe instead of a polymer there is no give in the shoe so it hangs up somewhere

 

those same jg trigger bar and shoes work fine in all my other glocks

Edited by Bunnies4r5
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This is a bummer. I have heard from more than one source that there is an amount of variance in Glock frames because the molds are not all identical. They are close, and within Glocks tolerances, but not identical. 
 

If that is the case, you may be out of luck in this specific situation. Glock won’t care because the Stock OEM parts work fine, and The JG parts work in multiple frames but not this specific one. One possibility is if you shipped the frame and parts to JG and let him work his magic. If he’s willing to do that. 

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31 minutes ago, Cherokeewind said:

Talk to Johnny?


we have gone over everything, he has sent me a replacement trigger and it does the same thing. I’m pretty experienced with the gen 5 I have checked over every component step by step. At this point I think something in the frame is out of spec, I can take this same trigger and put it in 2 different frames and it works just fine

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22 minutes ago, Cuz said:

This is a bummer. I have heard from more than one source that there is an amount of variance in Glock frames because the molds are not all identical. They are close, and within Glocks tolerances, but not identical. 
 

If that is the case, you may be out of luck in this specific situation. Glock won’t care because the Stock OEM parts work fine, and The JG parts work in multiple frames but not this specific one. One possibility is if you shipped the frame and parts to JG and let him work his magic. If he’s willing to do that. 


Yea I fear that is the case here, my only option would be to pay $100 for a frame replacement through glock. 
 

johnny said he has been seeing anomalies like never before since they are so behind on manufacturing.

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6 hours ago, Bunnies4r5 said:


Yea I fear that is the case here, my only option would be to pay $100 for a frame replacement through glock. 
 

johnny said he has been seeing anomalies like never before since they are so behind on manufacturing.

Good luck. You could spend $100 for a new frame and get one just like the one you have. It’s a crap shoot. 
 

it’s a catch-22 in the sense that it’s the amount of “slop” in the Glocks that makes them reliable in rough conditions or when dirty. But now it’s working against you. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update for anyone who cares, the one thing I failed to try was just replacing the entire trigger housing instead of the individual components, that was the solve. Don’t ask me how but replacing the entire housing with another one of Johnny’s (which is OEM with a overtravel screw) solved the problem completely. if anyone wants to take a stab at figuring out why the housing was the solve im all ears. I didn’t replace the return spring in that problem housing but I did remove and examine it and ensure it was installed properly so I don’t think it had anything to do with it but maybe.


the first symptom that clued me into a problem was when racking the slide the first half inch or inch had more resistance then normal, you could also feel a bit of movement in the trigger shoe when the slide would unlock, much more then would be normal, switching housings alleviated all of that as well as the reset problem

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  • 4 months later...

It is possibly attributed to tolerance stacking of multiple elements (parts). Sometimes you can win, then there are those other times where things are not happy. Good to hear you have achieved a workable solution. Good on you for the persistence and solution. Cheers!

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I`ll add I have one gen 5 34 that is a royal pita fit wise compared to 2 others I have, the timney trigger bar hit, the mbx mag would not work, the stock mag when pressed upward rubber the trigger bar etc etc   ALL  these mags and parts ran flawless in the other 2 34`s and  17 gen 5  so the frame tolerance is different in that one.  Got it to run perfect but a lot of fitting and careful material removal

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Just an observation...anyone who buys a modified Glock trigger, including any individual aftermarket trigger system components, and believes the marketing hype that these parts can be simply dropped in and you're good to go, needs to recalibrate their expectations.  I've been working on Glock triggers for many years, tuning triggers to meet the needs of individual users, and I'm also a certified Glock armorer.  Sometimes parts drop in and work just fine, but you need to be prepared to do some fitting and tuning to make them work sometimes and especially if you want the end result to perform in a particular way (e.g. pre-travel, post-travel, mushy, firm, rolling break, glass rod break, reset, etc.).

Edited by ShredderTactical
Info added.
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