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My G34 Gen 5 - I think I got it the way I want


Eli_a

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My 34 Gen 5 setup for CO
 

- G34 Gen 5 MOS 

- Forward Controls Design Plate 

- SRO 5 Moa 

- Glock store tungsten guide rod w 13lb spring. 

- Timney Alpha Glock Trigger 

- zev connector 

- Talon Grips 
- Taran Tactical base pads 

- Thug Plug

 

Using 3.2 TG , 147 blue bullets, 1.135OAL. 
 

figured I’d share if anyone cares ha

7CB570CA-F531-4239-95AB-42B9A11977FA.jpeg

Edited by Eli_a
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Nice setup, similar to mine except I use an Apex trigger kit with 4.0 lb striker spring. I went to the FCD plate after shearing the screws on my MOS plate twice. The FCD plate is a better design. This will become my backup once my G17 slide gets back from Battle Werx. I’m moving away from MOS and having a regular slide milled for SRO all the way back. I will also put a Timney trigger in it. 
 

what are you using for a striker spring?  If it’s stock, are you worried about the 13 lb recoil spring not being strong enough to always get/keep it in battery?  I was planning to bump up to a 15 lb recoil spring and 4.5-5.0 lb striker with my Timney. 
 

I went with the Taylor Freelance base pads, but not for any particular reason. They all seem to work well. 

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3 hours ago, Cuz said:

Nice setup, similar to mine except I use an Apex trigger kit with 4.0 lb striker spring. I went to the FCD plate after shearing the screws on my MOS plate twice. The FCD plate is a better design. This will become my backup once my G17 slide gets back from Battle Werx. I’m moving away from MOS and having a regular slide milled for SRO all the way back. I will also put a Timney trigger in it. 
 

what are you using for a striker spring?  If it’s stock, are you worried about the 13 lb recoil spring not being strong enough to always get/keep it in battery?  I was planning to bump up to a 15 lb recoil spring and 4.5-5.0 lb striker with my Timney. 
 

I went with the Taylor Freelance base pads, but not for any particular reason. They all seem to work well. 

I need to find someone that mills MOS slides, I’d definitely rather use milled slide than a plate. 
 

stock striker spring, I tested it out with a 13lb spring and shot a match with it yesterday, no problem at all. My load is about 132-135, I think lower than that you might run into problems. 

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1 hour ago, Eli_a said:

I need to find someone that mills MOS slides, I’d definitely rather use milled slide than a plate. 
 

stock striker spring, I tested it out with a 13lb spring and shot a match with it yesterday, no problem at all. My load is about 132-135, I think lower than that you might run into problems. 


I plan to run the 17 as close to 125/126 PF. I want it to be the lowest PF gun of my 9mm. If I want more velocity I can step up through multiple different Glocks to get all the way to anout 133/134 PF from my Gen3 34. 

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5 hours ago, Eli_a said:

I need to find someone that mills MOS slides, I’d definitely rather use milled slide than a plate. 
 

 

This "plate vs. milled direct" topic has been debated ad nauseum, but the data just doesn't convince me.  There are lots of reports of folks shearing plate screws, but there are many more folks running them without a problem.  I still believe that proper installation is the key.  If the optic's screws are too long and allowed to impinge on the slide itself after going through the plate, that is going to give a "prying" action to the plate and break the screws.

 

To me, the perfect scenario is:

 

     a.  High Quality Screws

     b.  Proper Length Optic Screws (use the Trijicon Installation Kit, if you're using an RMR)

     c.  Vibra-Tite or Loc-Tite, applied very sparingly (lest you have it creep down into the Extractor Depressor Plunger tunnel and lock that whole system 

          down....)

     d.  Proper Torquing of the screws.  10 in-lbs for the Plate-to-Slide screws. 15 for the Optic screws on an RMR; others may vary slightly, but that is

          surprisingly little torque applied.

 

I know of a test where a G45 with an RMR was shot for over 30k of +P 9mm ammo with no issues.  I'd be willing to say that our USPSA 130 Power Factor stuff puts a lot less stress on the screws and plate than this stuff.

 

Now, IF he just happens to have a few hundred bucks burning a hole in his pocket and a desire to send his slide off on a multi-week vacay, Eli is in luck.  One of the better shops doing direct mills is in Georgia.  C&H Precision in Richmond Hill, GA has done a few that I've seen and they look good.

 

 

 

Edited by Braxton1
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On 12/27/2021 at 2:00 PM, Braxton1 said:

 

 

This "plate vs. milled direct" topic has been debated ad nauseum, but the data just doesn't convince me.  There are lots of reports of folks shearing plate screws, but there are many more folks running them without a problem.  I still believe that proper installation is the key.  If the optic's screws are too long and allowed to impinge on the slide itself after going through the plate, that is going to give a "prying" action to the plate and break the screws.

 

To me, the perfect scenario is:

 

     a.  High Quality Screws

     b.  Proper Length Optic Screws (use the Trijicon Installation Kit, if you're using an RMR)

     c.  Vibra-Tite or Loc-Tite, applied very sparingly (lest you have it creep down into the Extractor Depressor Plunger tunnel and lock that whole system 

          down....)

     d.  Proper Torquing of the screws.  10 in-lbs for the Plate-to-Slide screws. 15 for the Optic screws on an RMR; others may vary slightly, but that is

          surprisingly little torque applied.

 

I know of a test where a G45 with an RMR was shot for over 30k of +P 9mm ammo with no issues.  I'd be willing to say that our USPSA 130 Power Factor stuff puts a lot less stress on the screws and plate than this stuff.

 

Now, IF he just happens to have a few hundred bucks burning a hole in his pocket and a desire to send his slide off on a multi-week vacay, Eli is in luck.  One of the better shops doing direct mills is in Georgia.  C&H Precision in Richmond Hill, GA has done a few that I've seen and they look good.

 

 

 

I agree that high quality screws, proper torque, loctite…etc are all necessary.  I’ve had great experience with the FCD plate but having a direct mill would eliminate the need for a plate resulting in less possible points of failure and the optic sitting lower. Of course milling does not eliminate the need to use proper screws, torque..etc
Check out wager machine works, turn around is 1 day for glock cuts and under 100$. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/26/2021 at 9:31 PM, Eli_a said:

My 34 Gen 5 setup for CO
 

- G34 Gen 5 MOS 

- Forward Controls Design Plate 

- SRO 5 Moa 

- Glock store tungsten guide rod w 13lb spring. 

- Timney Alpha Glock Trigger 

- zev connector 

- Talon Grips 
- Taran Tactical base pads 

- Thug Plug

 

Using 3.2 TG , 147 blue bullets, 1.135OAL. 
 

figured I’d share if anyone cares ha

7CB570CA-F531-4239-95AB-42B9A11977FA.jpeg

How much does it weight?

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On 12/26/2021 at 10:31 PM, Eli_a said:

My 34 Gen 5 setup for CO
 

- G34 Gen 5 MOS 

- Forward Controls Design Plate 

- SRO 5 Moa 

- Glock store tungsten guide rod w 13lb spring. 

- Timney Alpha Glock Trigger 

- zev connector 

- Talon Grips 
- Taran Tactical base pads 

- Thug Plug

 

Using 3.2 TG , 147 blue bullets, 1.135OAL. 
 

figured I’d share if anyone cares ha

7CB570CA-F531-4239-95AB-42B9A11977FA.jpeg

 

How are you liking that Timney trigger now that you've had it a bit?

I ended up swapping mine out and went back to Apex.  I just couldn't get used to the way the trigger reset.

Just wondering about your experiences.

 

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1 hour ago, Cuz said:

 

How are you liking that Timney trigger now that you've had it a bit?

I ended up swapping mine out and went back to Apex.  I just couldn't get used to the way the trigger reset.

Just wondering about your experiences.

 

I’ve shot a bunch of matches with it and a lot of dry fire. I’m not a trigger snob by any means and usually run stock triggers, with that being said I do like it to a certain point. The break and light # are great but as you mentioned the reset is not what I would like. I found that using gun butter helps but I have to apply it often. I shot a match in 28 degree weather, very cold for my area, and the reset was even worse. Maybe it was my freezing hands but it was annoying. 

Edited by Eli_a
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  • 1 month later...
On 12/27/2021 at 5:31 AM, Cuz said:

Nice setup, similar to mine except I use an Apex trigger kit with 4.0 lb striker spring. I went to the FCD plate after shearing the screws on my MOS plate twice. The FCD plate is a better design. This will become my backup once my G17 slide gets back from Battle Werx. I’m moving away from MOS and having a regular slide milled for SRO all the way back. I will also put a Timney trigger in it. 
 

what are you using for a striker spring?  If it’s stock, are you worried about the 13 lb recoil spring not being strong enough to always get/keep it in battery?  I was planning to bump up to a 15 lb recoil spring and 4.5-5.0 lb striker with my Timney. 
 

I went with the Taylor Freelance base pads, but not for any particular reason. They all seem to work well. 

Update:

So after a few thousand rounds I’ve had to switch back to a 15lb spring. The 13lb was sometimes not letting the slide go fully into battery. Enough to make me switch back, couldn’t really tell the difference honestly 

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Cool gun. I'm running an almost identical setup with a 10# recoil spring with no issues.  I am using 165gr rn right at floor.  It does get sluggish after a half dozen range trips or so and needs a wipe down and some Mobil 1. 

It seems like a solid setup.    

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15 hours ago, Eli_a said:

Update:

So after a few thousand rounds I’ve had to switch back to a 15lb spring. The 13lb was sometimes not letting the slide go fully into battery. Enough to make me switch back, couldn’t really tell the difference honestly 

My 14# spring was fine but the most recent match they had 2 stages with windows. I usually use the muzzle to push the windows open but this time my slide went out of battery at two of the windows.  Going to try a 15# spring instead.. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Tried the Timney trigger but reset too light for me, so just back to stock trigger and stock RSA. I have been running Glocks for games etc. since 1986 and after spending my retirement funds on trick stuff, I decided to sell all 9MM Glocks and replace with Gen 5 and use the stock setups. But a momentary weakness caused me to try a Timney, but back to stock.  And happy to finally learn the trigger save a lot of cash (buy more ammo) and no worries about equipment issues or springs, or ammo sensitivity. Of course, I am not critical of others customizations, everyone gets to do it their way. 

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1 hour ago, Qoholeth said:

Tried the Timney trigger but reset too light for me, so just back to stock trigger and stock RSA. I have been running Glocks for games etc. since 1986 and after spending my retirement funds on trick stuff, I decided to sell all 9MM Glocks and replace with Gen 5 and use the stock setups. But a momentary weakness caused me to try a Timney, but back to stock.  And happy to finally learn the trigger save a lot of cash (buy more ammo) and no worries about equipment issues or springs, or ammo sensitivity. Of course, I am not critical of others customizations, everyone gets to do it their way. 

Did you use the red trigger return spring with your Timney? It helped a bit, nothing major but a little better than the stock silver spring it comes with. I honestly have no problem with the stock trigger with a minus connector, just figured I’d try something different and see how it goes. If it starts to give me reliability issues I’d definitely go back to stock right away. 
my firing pin broke this past weekend at about 10k rounds, gonna see if Glock will send me out a replacement 

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On 4/4/2022 at 7:56 PM, thehudge said:

Cool gun. I'm running an almost identical setup with a 10# recoil spring with no issues.  I am using 165gr rn right at floor.  It does get sluggish after a half dozen range trips or so and needs a wipe down and some Mobil 1. 

It seems like a solid setup.    

What powder and how much are you using with 165gr? Can you tell any difference vs 147? 

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On 12/26/2021 at 9:31 PM, Eli_a said:

- Glock store tungsten guide rod w 13lb spring. 

 

 

Is that the captured or uncaptured spring from the Glockstore?

 

I ask because I got the uncaptured and both 13 & 15 pound springs. Neither will go fully into battery with any ammo I've been able to test. The GS captured factory weight has no problem at all with any full power ammo or my full power ammo. But will not cycle my ~135 PF 125grn ammo.

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On 5/30/2022 at 11:29 AM, Eli_a said:

What powder and how much are you using with 165gr? Can you tell any difference vs 147? 

Tight group, 2.7gr, 1.150(oal) 165gr plated=758fps with the KKM bbl. 

With the stock glock barrel I bump the powder to a heavy 2.8gr for the same fps. This is a floor load. 

The biggest issue I have with this load is badly bulged cases. I use mixed brass and most of the brass gets a significant bulge due to the bullet length and locks my gun up so that I have to use other methods besides my hands to un-jam it.  I go thru every round and kick those ones out to my son whose 320 will eat them just fine.     

Newer ATK (fed,cci) and Remington brass works fine, and yes it is a noticeable difference from147gr. More of a push but I think the 10lb recoil spring makes it. Soft going back, soft going forward. The dot never leaves the redicle and if I do my part it doesn't move much.      

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On 5/31/2022 at 11:57 AM, GigG said:

 

Is that the captured or uncaptured spring from the Glockstore?

 

I ask because I got the uncaptured and both 13 & 15 pound springs. Neither will go fully into battery with any ammo I've been able to test. The GS captured factory weight has no problem at all with any full power ammo or my full power ammo. But will not cycle my ~135 PF 125grn ammo.

Interesting, I just took advantage of Carvers Memorial Day sale to pick up 2 of his thick tungsten uncaptured guide rods, for a 17 and 34. Of course, now I’ll have to switch from flat ISMI to the Wolff coiled recoil springs. I went with a 13 and 15 to test. I have the 13lb spring in my 17 now and hope to shoot it later today. The trigger is a Johnny Glock setup with a 4lb striker spring. I abandoned the Timney altogether and will run the Apex or Johnny Glock from now on. Hopefully it will work fine, the gun is very dirty, but I consider that part of the testing process. If it won’t run in a dirty gun, then it’s not for me. 
 

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  • 3 months later...

A little update on this setup vs a CZ Shadow 2 I picked up and been shooting for a bit:

 

CZ shadow 2 with SRO, 11# recoil & hammer spring, cgw trigger return spring, lok grips. 
 

The Good difference vs Glock: 

- A lot more stable on longer shots 

- Easier for me to get a good draw (That’s always been an area I have had to work hard on so might no be a thing for you)

- Trigger reset is a lot better than the Timney. 
- Ability to change grips to preference. 
 

The bad difference vs glock: 

- Cost 

- Extremely more ammo picky than the glock.

- Not as simple to work on (For me at least) 

 

What I learned: 

- Not really that much difference once you add a little weight to the Glock

- Both can be ran fast. 
- Both plenty accurate for our game

 

Making the jump to open so with all that I’ll probably get rid of the shadow to find the open gun and have the Glocks for when I wanna shoot CO. 
 

Edited by Eli_a
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/16/2022 at 7:52 PM, MJ13 said:

What is the advantage of the round Wolf spring and the flat ISMI recoil springs?

I’m not too sure about the advantage of one vs the other but with the Glock store tungsten guide rod you have to use their springs. The rod is too thick for normal springs 

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