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10-22s


Mack19

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I have all Ruger guts in my DoubleKross magazine bodies. I did re-contour the steel feed ramps and polish them. The last 6 Ruger 10 round factory mags I bought I very carefully counted the rounds of tension on the spring and they were all a full 2 rounds so I guess Ruger no longer follows their old directions either. I have been told that the TK green springs may be a little stronger than the Ruger but I have no personal knowledge about that since I have not tried any of the green springs I keep for spares.

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Rotation:  Last fall I had a conversation with TK about their rotary magazine tool kit.  I told them that it was visually easier for me mark one side of the T handle and turn it 2 revolutions after I snugged the rotary stop and then seat it (which could be a little more forward).  He took one of his and did the same and agreed it was a good method for consistency and use of their tool.  

 

Green Springs:  I have converted all of my TK doubles to green springs and I keep spares on hand.  The tension on the spring is not uniform and torque is controlled from pinned hole in the rear.  What I have found (and I may take down and clean mags a bit more often that other's do) is the free end of the spring at the nut can get torque stressed and will actually begin to deform there ....some more than others.  This was more evident to me on the factory spring and much less on the TK green springs....so the green springs for me have been much more durable....longer life. 

 

Green Internals:  Because of my concern with the ejector being the feed lip I have hesistated to use the green feed lips.  I was pleased to read the positive posts about them.  Looking specifically for metal feed lips, I can buy the Ruger 3 mag Value pack (gun.deals.com) for around $31.00 to $35.00 and can find free shipping at times.  So around $11.75 each rounded up.  $11.75 x 2 = $$23.00 + one TK Double Shell $10.00 + two green springs $6.00 = $39.50.   If I had confidence in the green internals, and was starting from scratch, the cost for the TK double shell and all of the internals, including the bolt and nut would be around $46.00.  Since the Ruger Value 3 pack can vary in price at times, I would say the starting from scratch TK double build is comparable in price as long as the green feed lips hold up to match quantity rounds (as previous posts have indicated).

 

Personal to me:  I am sold on the TK double mag.  I have have very good match results using these as all of my shooting friends.  I will continue to use the 2 rotation turn method to set the nut.  I like being able to use the inverted mag to snug up the upper mag into the reciever and love the ability to see the rounds thru the clear body.   I also can see when the wax intenal ring wear starts to build up which is something I watch for relative to keeping the mags clean (compressors are great for blowing out debris but not for the internal wax)  Not all plastic molded products are equal and there could be one body to deal with.....but TK is great to work with.  I may order some green internals just to run comparisons.

 

Good conversation.....thanks for the input.  

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Interesting that all of you use the TandemKross DoubleKross magazine bodies...  I have three of the DoubleKross magazines with Ruger internals and they work great... 

 

I switched to six clear Ruger magazines with Kurt Grimes base plates for two reasons...  Using the DoubleKross magazines introduced a different order to my shooting...  sometimes you flip them...  sometimes you replace them...  It just seems simpler and more consistent to me to always swap the magazine out between strings...  Secondly the magazines are not always the same weight...  Admittedly these are both picky reasons...  But in a sport where 0.10 in a string is huge, I just decided to go that way.

 

The DoubleKross magazines do seem  to fit in my rifle better...  and I have never had a feeding problem with them...  I should probably force myself to change to them some time in the future.

 

Thanks for all the feedback!

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On 12/20/2021 at 9:37 PM, Gregg K said:

I have all Ruger guts in my DoubleKross magazine bodies. I did re-contour the steel feed ramps and polish them. The last 6 Ruger 10 round factory mags I bought I very carefully counted the rounds of tension on the spring and they were all a full 2 rounds so I guess Ruger no longer follows their old directions either. I have been told that the TK green springs may be a little stronger than the Ruger but I have no personal knowledge about that since I have not tried any of the green springs I keep for spares.

 

Part of the reason I went with the Ruger internals was because of the steel feed ramps...  I thought they might be superior to the TandemKross plastic feed ramps...  Not sure if that turns out to be the case because many here use the TK plastic ramps successfully.

 

Interesting to read that you re-contoured your Ruger feed ramps...  I've had two jams this year out of approximately 6,000 match rounds...  Both times the bullet seemed to miss the chamber and jam against the top of the receiver...  Never really figured out what caused it...  Lately I've noticed that there is a sharp point on the front of the feed ramp that seems shiny while all the other areas of the feed ramp are dark (covered in carbon)...  It's not actually a point...  it's more of a bevel between the front of the magazine and the forward plane of the magazine...  I've been thinking about rounding off the edge a bit to see if that helps.

 

Part of me wants to round that edge off a bit, but I'm also hesitant...  Two jams out of 6,000 is pretty insignificant in the overall scheme of things.

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15 hours ago, Hoops said:

Rotation:  Last fall I had a conversation with TK about their rotary magazine tool kit.  I told them that it was visually easier for me mark one side of the T handle and turn it 2 revolutions after I snugged the rotary stop and then seat it (which could be a little more forward).  He took one of his and did the same and agreed it was a good method for consistency and use of their tool.

 

I agree 100%  I make a similar mark on the outside of the T-handle...  a second mark on the top flat of the nut when it is turned so the the extended part of the rotor stops...  and a third mark on the flat where the bolt wants to end up...  Makes it much easier for me to know that I got the correct number of turns visually...  Without those reference points, I'm not as confident that I got the right number of turns (flats)

 

15 hours ago, Hoops said:

Green Springs:  I have converted all of my TK doubles to green springs and I keep spares on hand.  The tension on the spring is not uniform and torque is controlled from pinned hole in the rear.  What I have found (and I may take down and clean mags a bit more often that other's do) is the free end of the spring at the nut can get torque stressed and will actually begin to deform there ....some more than others.  This was more evident to me on the factory spring and much less on the TK green springs....so the green springs for me have been much more durable....longer life.

 

I never thought about the spring actually bending...  I only considered it wearing out...  I'll have to check for that when I clean my magazines...  At the least,I'll feel confident using the TK green springs if I need to...  Good tip...  Thanks!

 

15 hours ago, Hoops said:

Personal to me:  I am sold on the TK double mag.  I have have very good match results using these as all of my shooting friends.  I will continue to use the 2 rotation turn method to set the nut.  I like being able to use the inverted mag to snug up the upper mag into the reciever and love the ability to see the rounds thru the clear body.   I also can see when the wax intenal ring wear starts to build up which is something I watch for relative to keeping the mags clean (compressors are great for blowing out debris but not for the internal wax)  Not all plastic molded products are equal and there could be one body to deal with.....but TK is great to work with.  I may order some green internals just to run comparisons.

 

Good conversation.....thanks for the input.

 

I like the TK DoubleKross mags...  I use mine for practice...  I do wish TandemKross would make a single clear magazine...  although being able to see the internal wax ring is both a blessing and a curse...  😐

 

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9 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

 

Part of the reason I went with the Ruger internals was because of the steel feed ramps...  I thought they might be superior to the TandemKross plastic feed ramps...  Not sure if that turns out to be the case because many here use the TK plastic ramps successfully.

 

Interesting to read that you re-contoured your Ruger feed ramps...  I've had two jams this year out of approximately 6,000 match rounds...  Both times the bullet seemed to miss the chamber and jam against the top of the receiver...  Never really figured out what caused it...  Lately I've noticed that there is a sharp point on the front of the feed ramp that seems shiny while all the other areas of the feed ramp are dark (covered in carbon)...  It's not actually a point...  it's more of a bevel between the front of the magazine and the forward plane of the magazine...  I've been thinking about rounding off the edge a bit to see if that helps.

 

Part of me wants to round that edge off a bit, but I'm also hesitant...  Two jams out of 6,000 is pretty insignificant in the overall scheme of things.

2 jams out of 6,000.  It ain't broke....don't fix it 🙂  .0003% jams or .9997% fires is 100% in my book.  

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13 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

Part of the reason I went with the Ruger internals was because of the steel feed ramps...  I thought they might be superior to the TandemKross plastic feed ramps...  Not sure if that turns out to be the case because many here use the TK plastic ramps successfully.

 

I did the same thing for a while.  I ran six Doublekross with all Ruger guts, along side six Doublekross with all TK guts.  The Nylon TK feed lips are slicker than the metal Ruger lips.  I no longer have the mags with Ruger guts.

 

BTW, I hear you on forgetting to change a mag.  That happened to me ONCE.  I shot string four and forgot to change.  Fortunately I had no misses on 4 and 5.

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We must be pretty lucky on our 10/22's just run well. All I ever did with stock Ruger 10 round mags was polish the feed lips & take off the rough edges and they have worked perfect for many rounds and matches. We do rotate about 12 or 15 of them. Take 6 up for each string, but almost never go to the extra one. 

 

gerritm

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20 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

It just seems simpler and more consistent to me to always swap the magazine out between strings...  Secondly the magazines are not always the same weight

I totally agree, and also have have encountered trouble with the clear magazines more often than the black ones.  So I just went back to using all black ones and have had much better operational success. 

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12 hours ago, PeterParfinik said:

I totally agree, and also have have encountered trouble with the clear magazines more often than the black ones.  So I just went back to using all black ones and have had much better operational success. 

I also tried and stopped using the BX-1 clear magazines.  The BX-1 black mags ran but without adding a witness hole it always bugged me not to be able to visually verify my round count.  The TK clear double mag resolved this and to my surprise, the mags fit my receiver better than the BX-1's.....clear or black.  

 

After reading these posts I ordered a set of internals for one double mag......green feedlips, green rotar and green springs.  I am very interested to see how the point of ejection on the feedlips holds up after a few hundred fast fires.

 

Merry Christmas

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6 hours ago, Hoops said:

I am very interested to see how the point of ejection on the feedlips holds up after a few hundred fast fires.

 

After a few thousand mine look like new.  The glass filled nylon lips are slicker.  They load more easily and they feed better.  That being said, I never polished the Ruger feed lips.  That might have made a difference.

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Several of you have mentioned polishing your Ruger metal feed lips...  I have never polished mine, although I do wipe the carbon off the front of the feed lip every time I reload a magazine...  They seem very porous and rough.

 

Are you guys just using a Dremel polishing wheel and buffing them out?

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On 12/23/2021 at 5:11 PM, PeterParfinik said:

I totally agree, and also have have encountered trouble with the clear magazines more often than the black ones.  So I just went back to using all black ones and have had much better operational success. 

 

The only reason I use the clear magazines is because I like seeing the rounds...  I can look in my case and check all six magazines in a second to make sure they're full...  Secondary reason would be to see how dirty they are.

 

Do you drill a hole so you can check to make sure the 10th round is loaded?  ...or just load each magazine until you can't fit another round in?

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7 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

Do you drill a hole so you can check to make sure the 10th round is loaded? 

 

I gave up on black mags after about the third match.  I want clear.  You can see the first round after you load the tenth.  So you know it is full without trying to insert another round.  I especially want clear mags for my PCC.  All of the 17 and 40 round mags are clear for two reasons.  First, I only put 10 rounds in the 17s for SCSA.  Clear lets me see how many are left when I reload.  Secondly, PCCs are inherently dirty.  When I can't see the top two rounds in a clear mag, it's time to clean them.  Same with the 10/22 mags.  Lubed lead bullets gunk them up fairly quickly.  CCI AR Tactical does not, at least so far.

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On 12/25/2021 at 2:12 AM, RaylanGivens said:

Do you drill a hole so you can check to make sure the 10th round is loaded?  ...or just load each magazine until you can't fit another round in?

I drilled witness holes in some, and just went with making sure they are all topped off.  I make a final check when I am in the hole.  And also have found the witness holes on my Glock PCC magazines to be very  reliable for round count.

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Continuting with the TK Double/TripleKross discussion.  I, personally, have had some issues with cracking under right under the "U" where the round feeds.  Anytime I have had a crack, TK replaced them.  That being said, I do not think the issues were with the mags.  I have a feeling that my c.1981 Ruger receiver (that is beat to all hell) might be the culprit.  After repeated discussions with my friends at TK it would seem that, for the most part, the mags are solid and they are not getting many complaints.  I only mention this to point out the outstanding support from TK and that the mags still run great.

 

I am interested to know that maybe I have not been winding my springs enough.  I have seen very few feeding issues and have been using the TK tool turing the nut 3 half turns and then continuing a little more until the nut drops in.  Starting to think I might want to go a little further, just in case.

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16 hours ago, bigdawgbeav said:

I am interested to know that maybe I have not been winding my springs enough.  I have seen very few feeding issues and have been using the TK tool turing the nut 3 half turns and then continuing a little more until the nut drops in.  Starting to think I might want to go a little further, just in case.

There have been several comments in this post on the number of turns.  But, if you are having few feeding issues with your method.......why change?

 

 Using all TK green springs, I have noted before that I turn the TK handle two full revolutions and lock the nut in.  Works for me.....may not for others.  

 

TK will 100% back their mag housing.  Molding hard clear polymer's can be tricky.  I have some mags with slight visual imperfections at middle junction but the mags have several thousand rounds thru them and work fine.  But it is possible for a crack to develop and TK will replace.   Either way...............I am a total TK tandem mag user and will stay that way.  

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58 minutes ago, Hoops said:

There have been several comments in this post on the number of turns.  But, if you are having few feeding issues with your method.......why change?

 

 Using all TK green springs, I have noted before that I turn the TK handle two full revolutions and lock the nut in.  Works for me.....may not for others.  

 

TK will 100% back their mag housing.  Molding hard clear polymer's can be tricky.  I have some mags with slight visual imperfections at middle junction but the mags have several thousand rounds thru them and work fine.  But it is possible for a crack to develop and TK will replace.   Either way...............I am a total TK tandem mag user and will stay that way.  

I completely agree, but then again I'm a little biased as a sponsored competitior for TK.  I just went back through the videos and most of them went with the 1.5 turns and the one for the rotors was 2.  And, yes, TK backs everything which is why I choose to use their products even before I was sponsored by them. 

 

I still feel the cracking was my rifle.  We will see what happens when i build 2 new ones this winter.

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I've run 6 DoubleKross all TK setups for the entire season.  I had two failures at the match last Sunday.  On two mags the sixth round stuck and did not come up to feeding position.  Pushing the rotor brought them back up.  Fortunately, that did not cost me any time.  It certainly would have if I had missed a target.

 

So I decided the mags needed cleaning.  I disassembled them completely and picked up the the first body.  There were raised wax rings around the inside top and bottom.  It was also black when you looked at it from the inside.  There was also carbon buildup on the curve atop the hole the feed lips goes in.  I wiped the carbon and the plastic shattered into three pieces and the top of the hole was exposed.  I turned it around and tried to very gently glean the other side and the same thing happened.  So be careful cleaning that carbon.  It is hard.

 

I dropped everything into an ultrasonic cleaning tank and ran it warm for 6 minutes.  It did not remove that carbon, or the rings inside.  It did soften everything.  I was able to remove the carbon and wax with solvent.  I used a Q-Tip with solvent and a rotary action to clean above the hole.  I succeeded with the remaining 5.  TK has not been answering their phones for the last three days, so I'm guessing they are closed for the holidays.

 

So the moral of this story is be careful cleaning, and do it often.  I visually inspect the mags often.  Believe it or not, you can't see this stuff with the guts still in the mag. 

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Today I shot my new TK double mag with all new TK internals.  About a 100 rounds.  Zero issues.  Under magnifier I don't see any were on the black feedlips at the ejector point.  So far.....so good.  But as a friend of mine who has passed away used to tell me..............it's not a test unless it's done during a match.  Will see Sunday.

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On 12/30/2021 at 1:39 PM, zzt said:

So I decided the mags needed cleaning.  I disassembled them completely and picked up the the first body.  There were raised wax rings around the inside top and bottom.  It was also black when you looked at it from the inside.  There was also carbon buildup on the curve atop the hole the feed lips goes in.  I wiped the carbon and the plastic shattered into three pieces and the top of the hole was exposed.  I turned it around and tried to very gently glean the other side and the same thing happened.  So be careful cleaning that carbon.  It is hard.

 

So the moral of this story is be careful cleaning, and do it often.  I visually inspect the mags often.  Believe it or not, you can't see this stuff with the guts still in the mag.

 

Are you saying that the magazine shattered into three pieces when you cleaned the wax ring inside them?  Did you use a cotton ball or a Q-Tip or something soft like that to clean them?  That's a catastrophic failure for sure...  Maybe the ultrasonic cleaner affected the plastic?

 

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On 12/24/2021 at 3:15 PM, Kwontanamo said:

I’m going to get a hold of my dads old 10/22 that he taught me on for my son. Anyone have recommendations for conversion kits? 

Sky's the limit! Best to decide what you want to use it for. If it's for a youngster, you'll need a smaller stock. You can look around at youth stocks for a 10/22. Wiland makes a stock that is adjustable and can grow with him. But it is pricey.  https://wilandusa.com/modular-chassis-systems/

There are others I'm sure. Nice thing about a chassis rather than a wood stock is that many are adjustable. When he hits his growth spurt, you don't need a new stock.

 

For internals, my advice is don't skimp. The better stuff works better and goes together easier. I use Kidd. I initially used the OEM receiver and it was OK but now I am going to replace it with a Kidd.

 

If your son is just learning, use the OEM barrel. You can easily swap it out later on if you want to.

 

Summary: Youth stock, Kidd internals in stock receiver, OEM barrel

 

Hope this helps.

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