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We are now taking pre-orders for RevUp Action(TM) hammers


Toolguy

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1 minute ago, Toolguy said:

Thanks for the review, David, glad it's working for you. It gets better with practice. Revos are a different animal than autos.

that's for sure, especially coming from open major!  it's really odd feeling both incredibly slow yet so totally busy at the same time 

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Now that I've had some time to wear parts in with each other, I'd like to say I'm very happy with mine and thinking about another for the 625. Trigger pull is in the mid to high 7lb zone, set to cap off Federal and Winchester primers. I tend to run a big "safety factor" to prevent ftf's at matches, so one could probably go a fair bit lower. Very smooth and controllable, this 929 is now the fastest and most accurate revolver I own. Thank you for making great parts, and I wish you all success at keeping this going.

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Hi Lesliet-

Thanks for the report. Good reviews from customers are the main thing that will help. We are trying to transition the hammer business from a sideline into a full time occupation. We are currently finalizing work on the K/L hammer (one hammer fits both) and hope to have those ready in the near future.

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I don't know, Skip. Once I get the hammers made, I'll have to find a -2 and try it. If you want to order one, you can try it. If it doesn't work, you can send it back for a full refund.

Edited by Toolguy
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  • 2 weeks later...

I installed the RevUp hammer, included FP+spring, and an 11lb rebound spring into my 625JM. Said 625 has had zero work done on it, and is basically factory except for swapping the sights. I am not some sort of revolver guru, albeit it seems like you quickly learn to become one if you want to compete...

 

I originally set the strain screw way too shallow, and while it produced a really nice trigger pull, it was totally light striking my Winchester primers. I gave it a bit of a turn, and that resolved the issue. Primer impacts looked pretty good after that. I will fine tune the screw later, but I was super impressed with how this hammer transformed the trigger on the gun. Making 20yd shots on steel was stupidly easy, which is not something I could say before I put this trigger in. When I used my trigger pull gauge on the hammer (holding the trigger back, of course), it was gauging at about 3.5lbs, assuming I didn't mess up the gauging. I am not sure if I needed to hit so hard because Win LPPs are harder/thicker than SPPs; it doesn't seem like most people in this thread are using large primer calibers.

 

I did have some trouble with trigger return; when I got home, I put the 12lb rebound spring in, and this seems to have helped the problem with trigger return and short-stroking. I will do another run with it next week.

 

Long story made short, this thing is friggin' amazing and I'm eventually going to buy another couple for my 929 and R8.

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Thanks for the report, erwos. I love my 625s! Actually I love all my Smith revos. The one I love the most is the one I'm shooting at the time.

 

This hammer is designed to give you the best of both SA and DA. No cocking the hammer (DA), but the shot placement control of a light pull (SA). I'm glad it's working out for you. You can probably tune it back to the 44 to 50 ounce range for Winchester. Let us know what you end up with.

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Spent half an hour this afternoon doing some testing and tweaking on the 625's mainspring. I was still unable to get reliable ignition under 3.5lbs / 56oz. Maybe I just got unlucky, or my primers need to be deeper somehow (unlikely when reloading on a 650), or there's some other tolerance stacking going on, but that's the end result for me. I'll definitely be curious to see what others report in.

Edited by erwos
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We have recently discovered that there may be a borderline situation in some cases where the top of the DA sear may be grazing the bottom of some hammer block flags when the hammer block is down in the firing position. If your hammer block is still in place, you might try filing a bit of clearance to see if that helps. We are redesigning that area now. 

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2 hours ago, Toolguy said:

We have recently discovered that there may be a borderline situation in some cases where the top of the DA sear may be grazing the bottom of some hammer block flags when the hammer block is down in the firing position. If your hammer block is still in place, you might try filing a bit of clearance to see if that helps. We are redesigning that area now. 

Where do I file for clearance? Sorry if that's a dumb question, but a picture might help.

Also, even dumber question, but the implication is also that I can just run without the hammer block to see if this is the problem... is this a common thing to do with competition revolvers? (ETA: I see it's not an option for my 625 for IDPA anyways, but I can still do it to test it out.)

Edited by erwos
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40 minutes ago, erwos said:

Where do I file for clearance? Sorry if that's a dumb question, but a picture might help.

Also, even dumber question, but the implication is also that I can just run without the hammer block to see if this is the problem... is this a common thing to do with competition revolvers? (ETA: I see it's not an option for my 625 for IDPA anyways, but I can still do it to test it out.)

Before filing on the Flag, remove it.  I freaked after my first revolver action job from Clark's when they took out the flag and didn't even have it in the box.  He told me they routinely take it out of a competition action job.  I'm not recommending it, but there seems to be no issues with doing so as it is a redundant safety feature.

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I had meant to edit to say to take it out and see if there's any improvement before making any alterations, but the computer shut down on me and I just now got it going again. If it's better with it out, then you can file the bottom of the flag to clear the top part of the DA sear. It won't hurt anything to leave it out forever, but some types of competitions require it to be in there. If you do file the clearance, it will still work as designed and not be a problem, even going back to stock.

Edited by Toolguy
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi Don-

I'm glad you like it. The original S&W type mainspring works the best with this hammer. A lot of the newer S&W guns are being shipped with the Wolff Power Rib spring that is not as strong. If you have one of those in the gun, you may want to switch to an S&W mainspring and see how that works.

 

The K&L frame hammers (one hammer fits both) are in process (partly done). Right now we are kind of buried in our normal customer orders of precision machining, maintenance, and prototyping. We are working extra hours to try to get the hammers turned out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just wanted to share the latest newsletter with you all. We're sorry it's been such a long time since we updated you, but we've been extremely busy.

 

314db4b6-379b-c06f-b441-1b9212e7c9a9.png
We have some really good news for our patient K- and L-frame hammer customers!

We have finalized development and are currently manufacturing hammers. We anticipate being able to start shipping this model in the next 3-4 weeks, if not sooner.

Thank you so much for your extreme patience while we finished development in the midst of all our other projects.
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a little update.

 

We have completed all but the engraving and assembly on the K- and L-frame hammers. We should be ready to ship by the week after Christmas.

 

Thank you all for your patience!

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