Darqusoull13 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 2/15/2024 at 7:36 AM, Blackstone45 said: Can anyone explain how to remove the ejector from the JP-5? It's probably very simple but I don't want to do anything to try and figure it out for myself (and potentially mess up) before asking Why do you want to remove this is my question? Link to comment
Blackstone45 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 33 minutes ago, Darqusoull13 said: Why do you want to remove this is my question? To get the trigger unit out Link to comment
Keyst0ne Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 1 minute ago, Blackstone45 said: To get the trigger unit out Remove the C clip from inside the receiver, push the pivot pin to the outside, and the ejector will come out. There is a spring in the rear to be aware of, but it wasn't too eager to fall out so I've always left it in while I work. Link to comment
Boomstick303 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 2/15/2024 at 6:36 AM, Blackstone45 said: Can anyone explain how to remove the ejector from the JP-5? It's probably very simple but I don't want to do anything to try and figure it out for myself (and potentially mess up) before asking As explained above remove the E-Clip. Note: take care when assembling everything back together correctly and make sure the inner center of the E-Clip, sits in the groove of the Ejector Pin correctly. If you do not, you can run into all kinds of issues. One possible one is the E-Clip falls out and the ejector pin fall out of the gun, becoming almost impossible to find. The ejector then fall into the inside of the gun creating a malfunction. I had this happen, and that ended up mangling the return spring under the ejector which created all kinds of malfunctions down the road when I replaced the E-Clip. Anytime you reassemble the ejector, inspect the spring and make sure it is normal to prevent issues down the road. Link to comment
lroy Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 I've been thinking about some tuning methods for the rdb. I really doubt any of it matters in the end, but it's been fun to theorize. The way the system operates, the locking peice dictates how much initial force is required to drive the bolt assembly backward. The buffer spring/weight can add to this, but has the drawback of also causing additional force be created when it pushes forward back into battery. For example, a 70 degree lock with a heavy buffer spring would produce more felt recoil than a 60 degree with a very light buffer spring? Is that correct? I know max tested all of these and preferred the former, I was just curious on why that would be the case. Link to comment
jeffrolc Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 On 5/19/2023 at 7:02 PM, falconpilot said: Pickup up the JP5 today. Got it home and swapped all my Smoke Composite gear over from my GMR-15. Haven't weighed it yet, but the Smoke gear put it on a serious diet...IMO, there is a big difference in the way the two rifles recoil and dot movement. Now to work up a load and maybe play with different locking pieces.. What did you torque the smoke barrel nut to since it does not actually hold the barrel on? Link to comment
Keyst0ne Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 11 minutes ago, jeffrolc said: What did you torque the smoke barrel nut to since it does not actually hold the barrel on? For me, snug, then a little additional until the handguard mounting holes line up correctly. Link to comment
lroy Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it. Link to comment
GrumpyNO Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 1 minute ago, lroy said: Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it. Haven't tried, but have you tried different COAL? Longer or shorter? Link to comment
Keyst0ne Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 5 minutes ago, lroy said: Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it. No issues with any I've used including PD. Try moving to a higher locking piece. What are you using now? Link to comment
lroy Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 4 minutes ago, GrumpyNO said: Haven't tried, but have you tried different COAL? Longer or shorter? Ive tried as short as 1.0 and long as 1.125. Im using the same oal as my BMB coated bullets that feed great. Its seems like the flat bit of the JHP is getting snagged or something? My coated projectiles have a round, pointy nose. Link to comment
lroy Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 2 minutes ago, Keyst0ne said: No issues with any I've used including PD. Try moving to a higher locking piece. What are you using now? im using a 70. My ejection is great, so i dont think that is the issue. It even happens when releasing the bolt to load. Link to comment
Keyst0ne Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 9 minutes ago, lroy said: im using a 70. My ejection is great, so i dont think that is the issue. It even happens when releasing the bolt to load. Tried different mags? Link to comment
sharko Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 18 hours ago, lroy said: Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it. That and Zero's is all I use, 1.115 OAL. Never had a failure, I use Glock factory mags. Link to comment
Darqusoull13 Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 On 3/7/2024 at 6:07 AM, lroy said: Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it. I've used probably 10 different JHP's over 3 JP-5's and haven't had this issue. The V2's specifically fed fine for me. What magazines and followers are you using? Is this a persistent issue from round 1 to round x? Link to comment
lroy Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Well s#!t. It looks like it is a mag issue. They run fine with oem glock mags. The TTI pads cause the issue throughout. I sanded the connection point and followers and load to 1.12. im not sure why round nose dont have this issue. I guess i could try the TF extensions? Link to comment
Darqusoull13 Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 49 minutes ago, lroy said: Well s#!t. It looks like it is a mag issue. They run fine with oem glock mags. The TTI pads cause the issue throughout. I sanded the connection point and followers and load to 1.12. im not sure why round nose dont have this issue. I guess i could try the TF extensions? No worries, usually is mags. TTI +10's should come with a new spring. TTI for 17 round GLOCK mags don't need a different spring but only add 4. Double check your springs are the correct length and you took out all the other bits other than the spring and follower from the GLOCK mags. From there, load the mags completely and feel the pressure of the bullet column as you slowly remove bullets by hand feeding. The column should move with vigor as each round is removed. If you feel the follower get stuck at the transition, you still have something catching. Link to comment
jeremy kemlo Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 On 4/4/2023 at 10:51 AM, eerw said: I moved my offset up forward to avoid getting hit. What do you think about your magwell (techwells) vs the Taylor freelance? Link to comment
Boomstick303 Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 1 hour ago, jeremy kemlo said: What do you think about your magwell (techwells) vs the Taylor freelance? I have ran both. I prefer the Techwell, due to the material. Soft (Delrin I believe) vs hard (Aluminum). In all honesty it really does not matter in that it is rare that you reload PCC. Mostly for classifiers and with a little training PCCs are not hard to load. Delrin will be easier on your mags in the long run. Link to comment
Boomstick303 Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 On 3/7/2024 at 5:07 AM, lroy said: Anyone else have issues with jhp? Im using PD 115 v2 and they will not feed for anything. They consistantly end up stovepiping instead of chambering. Have to remove the mag and rack to clear it. Have you removed the ejector recently or at all? I have an issue where I did not replace the Ejector E Clip properly to where the Ejector Pin fell out of the rifle. Once I installed it correctly, what I did not know is the Ejector Spring had become Damaged in the process. It was creating all kinds of ejection issues. Once I replaced the spring all of my issues went away. Maybe something to look at. Link to comment
eerw Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 13 hours ago, jeremy kemlo said: What do you think about your magwell (techwells) vs the Taylor freelance? I’ve only run the Techwell. So I can’t compare. But have had no issues with the Techwell either Link to comment
TG426 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 On 9/27/2023 at 6:35 PM, brian45acp said: Just want to report the 60 lock piece is awesome. I keep reading others say it's for duty ammo and it's not true. I am only a 124jhp 1130-1150fps. I did swap the SCS to the lightest spring which is white colored. Brass ejects 7-8ft which I just shy of the recommend 9ft by JP. Talking to JP one of their guys uses the 60 lock piece as well. Dont be afraid to try it based on what the internet says. What powder are you using? Link to comment
cferree Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Anyone using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the bolt, BCG, extractor, etc.? I do a full clean every 2500 rounds, and due to the complex shape of the bolt and BCG, getting them clean takes a while. If you are using an ultrasonic, are you cleaning the bolt with the rollers installed or are you removing them? Link to comment
Darqusoull13 Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 57 minutes ago, cferree said: Anyone using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the bolt, BCG, extractor, etc.? No need. I run Hoppes Black, spray, briefly brush (5 sec) and let sit for a minute or so. Spray off with 3M brake clean then wipe with towel. Re-lube with lube of choice. I prefer Mobil 1 5w20 . Total cleaning time per JP-5 is less than 5 minutes. Link to comment
cferree Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 5 hours ago, Darqusoull13 said: No need. I run Hoppes Black, spray, briefly brush (5 sec) and let sit for a minute or so. Spray off with 3M brake clean then wipe with towel. Re-lube with lube of choice. I prefer Mobil 1 5w20 . Total cleaning time per JP-5 is less than 5 minutes. I'll try that next time. If that process gets off all the carbon build up, I'll be happy! N320 residue and lube makes for tacky mess to scape/brush off. Link to comment
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