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S&W 66-8 barrel removal


tim_w

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How does S&W remove the 2 piece barrel & shroud on the 66.  The barrel has a non threaded flange at the muzzle end compared to  others that have a recessed nut or comp as an external nut?  Is it a fitting that matches the rifling at the muzzle end? Can not imagine putting a hard fitting against the rifling especially at the crown of all places. 

 

I have seen the removed barrels but not the tool.  I greatly prefer a nut as it allows more adj for cone work/headspace etc.  If the new barrelnis setup without a space washer then you have no way to decrease headspace or clean   why S&W could not just keep it simple and universal  No recessed cone.  A simple barrel nut and threaded on both ends, simple.  The way my 327 JM or 500SW Lew Horton PC are setup makes for easy adj and replacement.

 

S_W_66-8_Barrel_.jpg

 

Versus this

 

 

S_W_500S_W_barrel.jpg

Edited by tim_w
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You are right - the barrel threaded on both ends is a much better system.

 

The top barrel has a tool matched to the rifling. You can make your own by turning a brass bar to .356 diam. with a .346 pilot and pressing it into the rifling. The brass is soft and will deform to match the barrel. You can drill a hole through the brass for a bar to use as a T handle to loosen and tighten.

Edited by Toolguy
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3 hours ago, Toolguy said:

You are right - the barrel threaded on both ends is a much better system.

 

The top barrel has a tool matched to the rifling. You can make your own by turning a brass bar to .356 diam. with a .346 pilot and pressing it into the rifling. The brass is soft and will deform to match the barrel. You can drill a hole through the brass for a bar to use as a T handle to loosen and tighten.

Do you recut the crown after that?

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No need to. the brass (360 alloy) is soft enough it won't damage the steel if you do the pilot to guide it in and press it straight.

That is assuming it had a good crown to begin with.  S&W doesn't have a good track record with crowns and forcing cones.

Edited by Toolguy
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That's for sure.  I tend to expect to recut both on any gun I am trying to get max accuracy.   Along with cylinder work etc.  Everything is a legos style parts gun it seems. Not hand fitting at all and constantly trying to reduce costs by cutting corners.

 

On the brass rod I was thinking...would heating it help easy the hydraulic force needed.  I picture bracing it off the cone frame with a delrin or wood fixture.  Then using a piloted bras rod using my hydraulic press to slowly form it into the barrel.  How deep do you think is needed......0.50 - 0.75"?   Guess I will find out what S&W trq their barrels to when I go to break it loose.

 

I know looking at S&W parts they do use shims behind those barrel at times to get gap set.  I like to run min cyl gap spec @ 0.003 with a trued cyl face.  With the barrel off I can more precisely cut the forcing cone angle and the throat and leade.  Get it polished up.  For that, I need to gain 0.005 to the cone.  I may have to take a couple thou off the shroud muzzle end to use the original barrel if it's not shimmed at all.   I could pu a 6" barrel liner and cut and thread it. Machine a recess into the shroud and run a Dan Wesson style barrel nut.  I wish S&W made those 500sw recessed barrel nuts in other sizes.  I like those and could make a bit to fit the lobe pattern. Have to see what I am dealing with as I have time in the shop to work on it.   

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