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Rl1100 case into shellplate feed issue


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Hey, I’m at a loss here.  With my rl1100 we have been having issues getting 9mm cases to properly feed into the shell plate.  About 1 out of every 300-400 try and go into the shell plate slightly crooked.  This results in a smashed shell and bent decap pin.  
 

we used a straight edge to align the plate with the case feed area.  We disassembled and cleaned.  we even replaced the shell plate and it was not remedied.

 

is there something I’m missing here?  Could it be an issue with the brass?  We use mixed head stamp but clean and sort bad brass before loading. It’s not a consistent issue with a single head stamp.  
 

thanks for any help and pointers.  The machine ran great for like 10k loads and this is a new issue.  Hopefully someone can point out something I’m totally missing.

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Lol, I've been having the exact same problem, at about the same frequency (1 out of 3-400).  I just figured it was something wrong with that piece of brass and never gave it a second thought.  I'm running the press manually, so when just processing brass, that's where I focus and make sure the brass got loaded correctly before stroking the press.  When I'm loading ammo, I check that a bullet got properly dropped, then check that a case got loaded before stroking the press.

 

If someone does have a cure for this, I too want to hear it.  It never even occurred to me that it may be something with the press because of the frequency that it happened, and also it only seems to happen if I'm trying to crank the handle at a pretty high rate.

 

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11 minutes ago, AHI said:

What is the head stamp of offending brass?

 

The two most recent occurrences were with S&B during loading.

That brass had previously gone through a processing pass where it was decapped and sized.

I don't recall there being any issues during that initial processing.

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keep track if it is the same head stamp . . Pay attention what the next case is also. Some lots of Remington have a smaller diameter rims. (four example)

Could be catching the top of the case . This will tip the case below causing a miss feed into the shell plate.

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Take off your aftermarket shellplate bearing if you are using one. Clip one coil off the index ball spring. Tighten the shellplate appropriately and adjust the linkage/index travel screw on the back of the frame appropriately. Use a 1911 recoil spring clipped in half for the casefeed plunger. I've been using a 9lb spring and I like it. 

I was having this issue and it was driving me crazy. I did the above and I went thru 2k 9mm with not a single bad case insertion. Loading 100rd in 3-3.75min. 


I think a lot of it has to do with how you move the handle. If you throw it too hard or too soft based on how your index is set. Also implementing an index dwell into your arm movement helps a lot. I recently found I'm much more consistent on handle throw when I'm sitting down on my elevated bar stool. I still load standing up as well, but my cadence/RPH is a bit slower because I can't keep it as consistent/smooth. 

 The other factor is how low/tight your shellplate is on the press. 

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6 hours ago, ezra650 said:

Also implementing an index dwell into your arm movement helps a lot. I recently found I'm much more consistent on handle throw when I'm sitting down on my elevated bar stool. I still load standing up as well, but my cadence/RPH is a bit slower because I can't keep it as consistent/smooth. 
 

 

Please explain what you mean be dwell in your arm movement?

Thanks.

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On 9/11/2021 at 11:32 PM, Stockwes said:

Hey, I’m at a loss here.  With my rl1100 we have been having issues getting 9mm cases to properly feed into the shell plate.  About 1 out of every 300-400 try and go into the shell plate slightly crooked.  This results in a smashed shell and bent decap pin.  
 

we used a straight edge to align the plate with the case feed area.  We disassembled and cleaned.  we even replaced the shell plate and it was not remedied.

 

is there something I’m missing here?  Could it be an issue with the brass?  We use mixed head stamp but clean and sort bad brass before loading. It’s not a consistent issue with a single head stamp.  
 

thanks for any help and pointers.  The machine ran great for like 10k loads and this is a new issue.  Hopefully someone can point out something I’m totally missing.

 

I would replace the spring . If its jerking when inserting a shell. Try that first. Also make sure the bolt isnt bent on the shell plate plunger. Do yourself a favor and get a spare parts kit for the machine. You will thank me later.

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Johnny - Thanks for making this recommendation. I have two extra part kits for my XL650’s because many years ago I had to dip into the one I had to replace a couple of items. When that occurred I added another $30.00 (years ago) parts kit to my next Dillon order….

 

I do not have a spare parts kit for my XL1100…but one will be added to my “Wish List” on the Dillon site right now…Thanks for the post recommending this as I know the value of having the kit just had not registered in my brain to order one…Mark

Edited by Sigarmsp226
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How many rounds should that spring be lasting?  It does seem a bit on the light side. I thought I read somewhere on this board that someone replaced it with a 1911 recoil spring and it worked better. Now I need to go search for it. 
 

My press has less than 15,000 cycles on it. 

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1 hour ago, Cuz said:

How many rounds should that spring be lasting?  It does seem a bit on the light side. I thought I read somewhere on this board that someone replaced it with a 1911 recoil spring and it worked better. Now I need to go search for it. 
 

My press has less than 15,000 cycles on it. 

I’ve loaded over 30k rounds of 9mm ammo and process over 100k cases of .223 and my original spring is still working well. The key is to make sure you clean and lube the machine on a regular basis. I normally process a batch of about 5-6k cases of .223 and I always clean, inspect and lube the machine. 
 

I also etch/inscribe an alignment for hashmark on the shell plates and machine base so they get installed and tightenend the same way every time. It makes re-installation easier.

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19 minutes ago, George16 said:
 

I also etch/inscribe an alignment for hashmark on the shell plates and machine base so they get installed and tightenend the same way every time. It makes re-installation easier.


I don’t understand this. The shell plate rotates, so how can you align it with the machine base?  I am probably missing something obvious here, sorry about that. 

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23 minutes ago, Cuz said:


I don’t understand this. The shell plate rotates, so how can you align it with the machine base?  I am probably missing something obvious here, sorry about that. 

Yes it rotates afterwards but the initial position will always be the same since the mark on the base is a fixed mark. I inscribed the marks while the shell plate was still installed and prior to removing it from the machine. After cleaning, I just line up the marks again and then tighten up the big nut that holds the shell plate down and then tighten up the four screws.
 

With the etch mark on the shell plate and the base, the shell plate is always installed on the same position it was originally installed prior to removal for cleaning.

Edited by George16
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George - If I may butt into this discussion - You mention you use the "5e" shell plate or did you mean to type the word "the"? 

 

May I ask what/who makes the shell plate you are using because with that many rounds on a single shell plate - it sounds like you have the right shell plate on your machine. 

 

Thanks Mark   

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1 minute ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

George - If I may butt into this discussion - You mention you use the "5e" shell plate or did you mean to type the word "the"? 

 

May I ask what/who makes the shell plate you are using because with that many rounds on a single shell plate - it sounds like you have the right shell plate on your machine. 

 

Thanks Mark   

Mark, that was a typo. It was supposed to be “the”. Thanks.
 

I’m still using the original Dillon shell plate that came with the machine (.223) and the 9mm conversion kit I bought from DAA. The key is really keeping the machine clean and lubed. I use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil (1/2 quart leftover from oil change of my 4Runner that takes 5.5 quarts) on the shaft and wheel bearing grease for the rest. I clean everything with simple green and then do a final wipe down with 90% alcohol to get rid of any moisture prior to lubing the parts.

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Thanks George for this detail and the methods and oil you use to clean your press. Being a old tight wad I also change the oil and filters in my vehicles and only use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil so I have that on hand.  Now for a quick story of being in the right place at the right time…..

 

I walk into my local Wal-Mart one Saturday or Sunday morning at 6:00 a.m. like I do every weekend to pick up our groceries but tend to also cruse through Sporting Goods to see if they have any good deals on 22LR ammo. I then proceed from there through automotive on my way to the grocery section…. What is this I ask myself (then I ask an associate)…. These are 12 quart bag in a box units of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil (various weight consistencies) that my local Wal-Mart received ( a full pallet) by mistake. So what do they do - they put the pallet in the isle way and mark it for $20.00 a box - Yes - $20.00 for 12 quarts of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil - so I bought eight boxes…Just have to deal with the issue of transferring oil from the bag spout to a previously used 5 quart Mobil 1 oil container but for this price I am not complaining….

 

Now back to reloading talk…..Thanks Again…Mark 

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8 hours ago, Cuz said:

I thought I read somewhere on this board that someone replaced it with a 1911 recoil spring and it worked better. Now I need to go search for it. 
 

 

That's literally what I said in my reply 😅. 9lb 1911 recoil spring clipped in half.

Stock spring has plenty of tension but I feel like the 1911 spring allows you to go faster as you don't have to worry about the shellplate waiting too long on the case to be presented.


Also agree with George. Lube/clean up press every 5k rounds. Sometimes maybe even sooner. Mainshaft needs oil frequently. Just depends on powder slosh and how clean your brass is etc. Good idea to clean dies every 10k or so. Q tip soaked in alcohol usually keeps from having to pull die off toolhead. 

I don't see point in etching your shellplate. I just tighten the plate as much as possible. Don't think you could get it too tight with how big the dillon pockets are on their shellplates. Only have to worry about too tight for smooth index.  Witness marks are nice to have. I keep them on my dies and I have one on my index adjustment screw. 

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When the stock spring starts to go bad you will notice erratic shell loading. Using a heavier spring like the 1911 will only wear out parts faster.  Your  putting ,more stress on the case feed plunger.  Theres no need for this unless you are running automated at full speed, like 2000 CPH. 

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12 hours ago, Cuz said:


I don’t understand this. The shell plate rotates, so how can you align it with the machine base?  I am probably missing something obvious here, sorry about that. 

This is what he is referring to, I use the same method. It just speeds up the install process after a good cleaning . 

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Edited by Johnnymazz
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