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Gen 5 extended tip lightweight striker ?


Sinister4

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Any one know who makes, (and has in stock), a extended tip firing pin for a gen 5 34 ?  Lightweight would be nice as well. Ive had zero luck searching everyone, Jager does not do one yet and that would be my first choice for sure.  I've seen some that state extended but really are stock length.  Just need one for my range brass reloads with iffy primer depths, thank you.

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I would be VERY careful using anything but OEM in the Gen5.  The hardness of the steel in a Gen5 Firing Pin is critical and needs to be harder than woodpecker lips, much more so than previous Gens.

 

Reason being is that the early Glock Firing Pins would retract during the recoil cycle and be held back by the Firing Pin Safety.  That caused a bit of wear at the FP/FPS interface that would reach a certain point and stop.  Glock engineers wanted to eliminate that wear so they kept the Firing Pin Safety depressed during the recoil stroke on the Gen5, which allowed the Firing Pin to float in its channel.  Most of the time, the Firing Pin tip is still projecting out of the breechface when the feeding round's rim is sliding up the breechface and under the Extractor.  The tip takes a heckuva sideways smack when that happens.  If the metal is hard enough, no harm/no foul.  If it is not, a small ding will develop on the underside of the Firing Pin's tip.  This ding will eventually start to catch the rim and cause an intermittent (at first) feeding jam.  It'll get worse until it just won't run at all.  

 

Attached is a pic of an aftermarket Firing Pin tip that went south on me....  Just that tiny ding was enough to give 3-4 jams per USPSA stage.

20210309_080924.jpg

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Are you getting light strikes now with the Gen 5?

I’m using CCI primers with junk range brass and a 4 lb striker spring and I’m getting 100% ignition in a very dirty Gen5 model 34 through about 5,000 rounds now with no cleanings. 

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12 hours ago, Cuz said:

Are you getting light strikes now with the Gen 5?

I’m using CCI primers with junk range brass and a 4 lb striker spring and I’m getting 100% ignition in a very dirty Gen5 model 34 through about 5,000 rounds now with no cleanings. 

More than i'd like  13 pound recoil, 4 pound striker, id say umm 4-6 light strikes per 100, federal primers, 5 pound striker zero issues,  same deal in 2 gen 5 34's we shoot.  the 13/5 spring is really close to out of battery test, so I figured, (like ive done before in gen4) 4 pound spring with jager striker 13 or 11 recoil but not available for the gen 5 yet oh well i'll set it so it functions till parts are available

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1 hour ago, Sinister4 said:

More than i'd like  13 pound recoil, 4 pound striker, id say umm 4-6 light strikes per 100, federal primers, 5 pound striker zero issues,  same deal in 2 gen 5 34's we shoot.  the 13/5 spring is really close to out of battery test, so I figured, (like ive done before in gen4) 4 pound spring with jager striker 13 or 11 recoil but not available for the gen 5 yet oh well i'll set it so it functions till parts are available

Hmm, have you tried the 4.5 lb Wolff striker spring?  I’d be curious if that hit hard enough to solve your problem. 
But, before I did that, I’d try a 15 lb recoil spring to see if the problem centers around the slide not getting into battery. 
 

I have a Carver extended guide rod & bushing but I don’t recall if I have an 11, 13, or 15 lb recoil spring. 

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8 hours ago, Cuz said:

Hmm, have you tried the 4.5 lb Wolff striker spring?  I’d be curious if that hit hard enough to solve your problem. 
But, before I did that, I’d try a 15 lb recoil spring to see if the problem centers around the slide not getting into battery. 
 

I have a Carver extended guide rod & bushing but I don’t recall if I have an 11, 13, or 15 lb recoil spring. 

yup, the wolff 4.5 with the 13 does work pretty well, and i'll try the 15 today, I have every spring known to man in the old tool box, be interesting if its just barely not going into battery, but so far Zero sign of that,(but who knows) primer strikes both light and normal exactly centered and brass fine. Be nice if I had a "accurate" spring load tester  Extended guide rods here as well with centering bushing I make, I have some jager normal rods with other spring I can try too.  Its more anoying than anything else as the 13-4-lightweight-my load  always worked and now I have to mess with it,  but it gives my something to do lol

 

Edited by Sinister4
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2 hours ago, Sinister4 said:

yup, the wolff 4.5 with the 13 does work pretty well, and i'll try the 15 today, I have every spring known to man in the old tool box, be interesting if its just barely not going into battery, but so far Zero sign of that,(but who knows) primer strikes both light and normal exactly centered and brass fine. Be nice if I had a "accurate" spring load tester  Extended guide rods here as well with centering bushing I make, I have some jager normal rods with other spring I can try too.  Its more anoying than anything else as the 13-4-lightweight-my load  always worked and now I have to mess with it,  but it gives my something to do lol

 

 

Lol, I know what you mean about all those springs.  And, I couldn't agree more about hating to mess with a favorite combination that's worked for you.

Keep us posted.  I'm curious what ends up solving the problem.  For me, I think I'm going back to my Gen3 G34 and will probably shelve the Gen5.

 

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On 9/2/2021 at 8:02 AM, Cuz said:

 

Lol, I know what you mean about all those springs.  And, I couldn't agree more about hating to mess with a favorite combination that's worked for you.

Keep us posted.  I'm curious what ends up solving the problem.  For me, I think I'm going back to my Gen3 G34 and will probably shelve the Gen5.

 

IT appears all said and done that the firing pin safety was "slightly" not raising enough with the timney trigger and causing a miniscule amount of drag on the firing pin as it moved forward,  Even though it looked perfectly clear of the channel.  I noticed a insanely small "nick" on the firing pin under 10X inspection. Anyway I polished it out and slightly ground out and polished the matching area on the plunger.....so far, bang bang,  all good.  Its almost amazing how little the plunger has to touch the pin to cause a light strike, and being the plunger/slide fit is really quite sloppy and can turn in its bore a bit (unlike a gen 4 with round plunger) it apparently could cause a issue unless you have the bone stock birds head with massive movement of the plunger upwards.  

 

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On 9/5/2021 at 8:17 AM, Tnbb33 said:

Extended firing pins tend to break has been my experience. I’ve had better luck just upping the striker spring weight and sticking the the factory firing pin. 

oh for sure until it pulls the recoil spring/slide out of battery, all just a big experment anyway

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  • 3 months later...

Gen5 Firing Pin tips are 0.135" long.  The sampling of Gen3/4's that I have are around 0.115". 

 

My rough measuring shows that this difference does NOT directly correlate to more Firing Pin PROTRUSION, which is the true question.  Both of my samples have about 0.055" protrustion.

Edited by Braxton1
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On 9/1/2021 at 3:02 AM, Braxton1 said:

I would be VERY careful using anything but OEM in the Gen5.  The hardness of the steel in a Gen5 Firing Pin is critical and needs to be harder than woodpecker lips, much more so than previous Gens.

 

Reason being is that the early Glock Firing Pins would retract during the recoil cycle and be held back by the Firing Pin Safety.  That caused a bit of wear at the FP/FPS interface that would reach a certain point and stop.  Glock engineers wanted to eliminate that wear so they kept the Firing Pin Safety depressed during the recoil stroke on the Gen5, which allowed the Firing Pin to float in its channel.  Most of the time, the Firing Pin tip is still projecting out of the breechface when the feeding round's rim is sliding up the breechface and under the Extractor.  The tip takes a heckuva sideways smack when that happens.  If the metal is hard enough, no harm/no foul.  If it is not, a small ding will develop on the underside of the Firing Pin's tip.  This ding will eventually start to catch the rim and cause an intermittent (at first) feeding jam.  It'll get worse until it just won't run at all.  

 

Attached is a pic of an aftermarket Firing Pin tip that went south on me....  Just that tiny ding was enough to give 3-4 jams per USPSA stage.

20210309_080924.jpg

Very valuable info here. Thank you 😊 

Cant the dings be dressed so it will be smooth enough to allow the rim of the shells to slid coming up to feed?

i have a 17/5 with stock parts but just curious for future reference. 

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On 12/24/2021 at 8:33 PM, BoyGlock said:

Very valuable info here. Thank you 😊 

Cant the dings be dressed so it will be smooth enough to allow the rim of the shells to slid coming up to feed?

i have a 17/5 with stock parts but just curious for future reference. 

 

I suppose one could dress up those dings, but I'd imagine that it would only come back.

 

I have a ZEV lightweight Gen5 Firing Pin in the gun now, but it has zero rounds on it, so evaluation remains.  I'm keeping the OEM one REAL handy....

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  • 1 month later...

Any update on the zev striker?

 

I am running small rifle primers (since primers are scarce) so i thought id pick up the glockstore extended and lightened firing pin to ensure ignition.

 

Is that the one you were using when you observed the wear on the tip?

 

I am currently running:

gen5 G34

Stock striker spring (5.5lb)

glockstore firing pin (only 250rds so far)

15lb recoil spring

timney trigger system

 

Does anyone know if the stock striker and striker spring will set off small rifle primers reliably? 

 

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7 hours ago, dsmarty386 said:

 

gen5 G34

Stock striker spring (5.5lb)

glockstore firing pin (only 250rds so far)

15lb recoil spring

timney trigger system

 

Does anyone know if the stock striker and striker spring will set off small rifle primers reliably? 

 

 I did a pretty good test in my gen 5 34 with stock striker and the stock glock silver spring,  long as the gun goes into battery fully zero issues running small rifle and small rifle magnum primers, I think the stock setup will ignite anything really.  The ONLY issue we had was trying to reduce the recoil spring weight to the point we HAD to use a lighter striker spring to get the gun to lock up all the time, but at 15 pounds you should be golden !  After you shoot the gun a few thousand rounds you more that likely can run 13 pound recoil with the stock striker spring, just depends on how tight the gun is.  I always do the vertical return to battery test as a check

 

Edited by Sinister4
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