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1911 bent firing pin


WFargo
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Hi guys, 

 

The following might be common knowledge for some or most, but definitely not for me.

So just wanted to share this experience. 

 

I was dry firing last night and to finish off, I did some slide lock reloads with dummy rounds. 

( my dummy rounds are simply rounds without a primer)

The last dummy round was stuck in the chamber. My dummy rounds NEVER get stuck in the chamber.... so that was already weird..

I grabbed the slide and hit the frame with my other hand and the round popped out. 

Okay, all done.  Gun in the safe and off to bed. 

This morning wanted to dry fire again and as I pull the trigger, the sound is different....

I take a closer look and see that the firing pin no longer protrudes from the firing pin stop plate.  It's stuck forward!

As I take it apart I see that the end of my extended firing pin is bent!

 

What I didn't know, is that there is a possibility that the extended firing pin gets stuck in the channel beyond the primer pocket!

That was the reason the round was 'stuck' in the chamber! As the firing pin was stuck in the case, the barrel could not unlock and move downwards. 

As I grabbed the slide and slammed the frame, the barrel was forced downwards, which bent the firing pin, as it was still stuck in the case. 

 

I must have pulled the trigger on a dummy round like this a million times...  but apparantly this can happen!

 

Sooo.... I will be making a new set of dummy rounds with the spent primers still in the case to prevent this from happening again. 

 

Maybe this will help some other unknowing fool like me.... Hahahaha! 

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Yep that used to be an issue years ago until they figured out to make firing pins the proper diameter for the firing pin hole. 

It could have been that the firing pin was stuck in the slide but if that was the case it would do it when you unload and show clear. Basically anytime you dry fire it. 

 

More that likely it stuck in the flash hole of your dummy round. 

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1 hour ago, WFargo said:

Sooo.... I will be making a new set of dummy rounds with the spent primers still in the case to prevent this from happening again. 

I recall some enterprising souls on here making dummy rounds with the primer pocket filled with rubber/RTV. If using spent primers, the firing pin can eventually pierce that spent primer, potentially catching the firing pin in the forward stroke. The RTV provided a cushion.

 

Gasket sealer might work.

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I made dummy rounds for dry fire using RTV silicone sealant on the primer pockets, filled it up with some of my daughter’s play dough and 124 Gr bullets to mimic the 190 Gr weight of my actual ammo. I also painted it red so differentiate and always kept  away from my live ammo.

 

Heres a pic

556-D60-BC-17-BC-40-A3-8-BE6-04-F81-CD65

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2 hours ago, George16 said:

I made dummy rounds for dry fire using RTV silicone sealant on the primer pockets, filled it up with some of my daughter’s play dough and 124 Gr bullets to mimic the 190 Gr weight of my actual ammo. I also painted it red so differentiate and always kept  away from my live ammo.

 

Heres a pic

556-D60-BC-17-BC-40-A3-8-BE6-04-F81-CD65

 

I have always used pieces of pencil eraser but this looks like a far better idea.

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I'd use a shorter firing pin.  The longest that I know of is the Dawson.  It is so long the tip sits right at the front of the firing pin hole.  Even so, it cannot protrude far enough in my slides to reach the flash hole.  I think your firing pin channel was drilled too deep.  Next longest is the Cheely.  That's what I prefer if extra length is needed.

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8 hours ago, ima45dv8 said:

I recall some enterprising souls on here making dummy rounds with the primer pocket filled with rubber/RTV. If using spent primers, the firing pin can eventually pierce that spent primer, potentially catching the firing pin in the forward stroke. The RTV provided a cushion.

 

Gasket sealer might work.

Dang this is a great idea. Thanks. 

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If you do the trigger correctly and use a 19 lb mainspring there's no need for an extra long firing pin.  And the heavier spring with correct hammer and sear angles will get you under 2 lb pull and also provide a far cleaner break, overall better feel, and 100% positive ignition.

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I put a small paper disk inside the cases before applying the hot glue. It keeps the glue from just running into the case and what does flow through the flash hole helps hold it in the pocket. 

Edited by Farmer
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@ ltdmstr  I actually had to install a 'normal'  firing pin for the match last Sunday as I did not have an extended one spare. 

I had no issues with light primer strikes at all. 

 

To explain further; when I was experiencing light primer strikes a couple months ago, I in fact installed a new and heavier 19 lbs main spring and an extended firing pin. 

Apparantly the change of the main spring would have been sufficient, so I'm gonna keep it like this. 

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