How do I tame ejection (Witness 10mm)?

[daved20319]

So I was velocity testing some reloads in my fairly new to me Witness Steel Full Size 10mm.  Of 30 rounds fired, I was able to recover all but one case, but it took some serious searching, and the brass was scattered from my 12:00 to my 6:00, and some was 30+ feet from my shooting position !  Granted, I was working on a "full power" load (180 gr. @ 1250 FPS), but I get the same thing even with ~1100 FPS range ammo.  I know a heavier recoil spring is supposed to help, but I have trouble racking the slide with a 16 lb. spring, I don't know how you guys manage with a 22.  I've also heard about modifying the ejector, shortening it, but I couldn't find any details beyond that.  And help would be much appreciated, thanks.

 

Dave

[MemphisMechanic]

A stiffer spring is the biggest help available, honestly. If you cannot retract the slide fully with an 18-20 pound spring, I suggest you hit it with your purse to assist in driving it rearward.

 

 

The tip of the ejector can be filed / reprofiled to change the trajectory of the ejected brass. It’s the combination of the ammo and the recoil spring that determine the slide speed, and the resulting velocity of the exiting brass.

If you want to work on the ejector, watch the gun eject brass and determine if you need to get rid of some upward “lob” to the arc, or if it needs to go rearward. Etc.

 

Once you think through the mechanics of the gun’s function it should be obvious what to do:

 

The brass pivots around the claw of the extractor on it’s way out of the gun. When and were the ejector’s tip strikes the case is what determines HOW it pivots and is launched out of the weapon.

 

Example: Filing the ejector so it becomes more of a point at just the top (you cut it from | to a / shape) will cause all of the impact to be higher, so it doesn’t get as much loft to it’s arc. That would have been caused by an impact down low on the case.

The ejector is part of the sear cage, which is neither difficult to replace nor very expensive, so experimenting isn’t going to ruin your gun.

 

Edited August 25, 2021 by MemphisMechanic

[Ronemus]

For full-power 10mm loads I added a recoil buffer and had custom recoil springs made - I couldn't find any aftermarket springs hefty enough. I also bobbed the ejector to shorten the distance my brass is thrown. With factory springs and a full-length ejector my brass was 30' away which made it very difficult to find. After the mods my brass is 8' away and much easier to find.

[Gary1911A1]

I have used these for buffers. They also slightly shorten the slide cycle which would be like reducing the length of the ejector.

https://www.henningshop.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1291027&CAT=9249

[Gary1911A1]

Henning also has these guild rods that help to spread the recoil over a slightly larger area.

https://www.henningshop.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1284179&CAT=9249

[daved20319]

Thanks, all, helpful info.  Memphis, you're just jealous that I HAVE a purse, although my wife seems to think it's hers, and I just get to carry it .  I'll experiment with the heavier springs again, hell, they're in my range bag for just that reason.  If that still does't do it, I'll look at modifying the ejector.  At the moment, it seems to eject brass all over the place, but the shooting line is covered, and at least some of the brass is hitting the ceiling and bouncing.

 

Gary, I already have that guide rod installed, and I also have one of those buffers but haven't tried it, a buffer in a 1911 I used to have kind of left a bad taste.  But I'll give it a try on my next outing, it's not like I can't undo it.  More later, thanks again guys.

 

Dave