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LVL 10 Case Stabilizer for 1050/1100


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I'm looking for feedback from users of this case stabilizer sold by lvl10i. It looks well designed but I wanted to get input from users on it before I spend $80 on it or even $160 as I think I would like to have one on the bullet drop and bullet seat station. I am using an 1100. The issue with powder spillage seems to be from the sudden stop of the case under the bullet drop die. I may try and fit or modify to fit a DAA PSP brush from the powder drop to the lvl10i stabilizer, but I think what makes the big difference is a controlled stop at the bullet drop station. I will figure that out later. My other goal with these stabilizers is to keep 223 cases from wobbling at the case mouth. I suspect an aftermarket shellplate will aid with that as well. This would make loading smoother and viable at higher speeds. As well as simply processing 223 brass. 

https://lvl10i.com/collections/dillon-1050/products/case-stabilizers-for-dillon-1050

 

What calibers are you using these on?
How fast are you running the machine and does it increase the speed that you can operate smoothly?
Have you used this stabilizer while processing or loading rifle brass? (223/300blk etc)
Do you find it to help with powder slosh? Especially with short cases like 9mm with a half or more case of powder. Or a 223 case with a dense powder loaded near the neck. 

Curious to hear feedback. Thanks all!

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Ezra - Sorry that I cannot provide feedback on this specific device but I can say this - Level 10 Innovations makes very high quality items. I purchased a primer hold down die for my RL1100 and it is built like a beautiful precision TANK…..It is the only product I have purchased from them but without question they build HIGH Quality Products…..Mark

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I second the quality of Level 10 Innovations products; have a bunch of them on my RL1050. I have never used these particular spill stops; I am using the Reloading Innovations spill stops. Work good, however, I may give these a try. I like the adjustability.

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On 8/12/2021 at 12:05 PM, Sigarmsp226 said:

Ezra - Sorry that I cannot provide feedback on this specific device but I can say this - Level 10 Innovations makes very high quality items. I purchased a primer hold down die for my RL1100 and it is built like a beautiful precision TANK…..It is the only product I have purchased from them but without question they build HIGH Quality Products…..Mark

 

On 8/12/2021 at 12:24 PM, cbrussell said:

I second the quality of Level 10 Innovations products; have a bunch of them on my RL1050. I have never used these particular spill stops; I am using the Reloading Innovations spill stops. Work good, however, I may give these a try. I like the adjustability.



thanks for the feedback guys. I think I eventually will buy one but a TNT or FFB shellplate is first on the list so I'm holding off for now. I'll make a post about the stabilizers when I get one. 

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5 hours ago, ezra650 said:

thanks for the feedback guys. I think I eventually will buy one but a TNT or FFB shellplate is first on the list so I'm holding off for now. I'll make a post about the stabilizers when I get one. 

I'd pass on the FFB.  TNT shell plates are better made.

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4 hours ago, 67isb said:

I'd pass on the FFB.  TNT shell plates are better made.

I was leaning toward TNT. I was gonna throw one on my BSPS order this week and then the last 9mm one sold. Shouldn't have hesitated. I'm also considering an FFB autodrive for my RL1100, not sure yet. I'm going to make a new thread about that soon.

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I ordered both for my RL1050 in 40 S&W. I believe I ended up using the FFB one because I liked the finish more, however, you can’t go wrong with either.  An improvement over the stock shell plate for sure. I did use a Reloading Innovations bearing kit which I believe helped smooth out things a bit. I used the low mass detent ball, but if I had to do it again, I would stick with the stock metal ball bearing. I think it will hold up longer. 

 

I have tried about every “upgrade” out there; some worked/were an improvement, others were not. I always have fun tinkering around with reloading press stuff. Currently waiting on an Armonov round counter. Should be trick.

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11 hours ago, cbrussell said:

I ordered both for my RL1050 in 40 S&W. I believe I ended up using the FFB one because I liked the finish more, however, you can’t go wrong with either.  An improvement over the stock shell plate for sure. I did use a Reloading Innovations bearing kit which I believe helped smooth out things a bit. I used the low mass detent ball, but if I had to do it again, I would stick with the stock metal ball bearing. I think it will hold up longer. 

 

I have tried about every “upgrade” out there; some worked/were an improvement, others were not. I always have fun tinkering around with reloading press stuff. Currently waiting on an Armonov round counter. Should be trick.

I'm using the bearing kit and enjoying it. I agree with you on the detent ball. I don't know if its the material of the ball or the spring but occasionally the ball will get stuck in the cavity and the shellplate will free spin. I was thinking I will switch back to the metal one whenever I take off the shellplate next time.

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On 8/12/2021 at 7:30 AM, ezra650 said:

Curious to hear feedback. Thanks all!

L10 makes great products and I own the primer support die, which works very well.

 

However, for the price these work very well to stabilize brass as it rotates:

 

Edited by HesedTech
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2 minutes ago, HesedTech said:

L10 makes great products and I own the primer support die, which works very well.

 

However, for the price these work very well to stabilize brass as it rotates:

 

The zip tie trick did not work well for my RL1100. I suspect its because the shelf on the 1100 is not as meaty. I have been using the arredondo stabilizer and it works well, just looking for something a bit better to run the press faster. I ordered a DAA PSP brush. I'll give it a try and when I get ready to automate I believe I will order the lvl10 stabilizer to try.

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If you have a 3D printer or know someone who does I modeled some anti-wobble pins for my 1100 and uploaded them to Thingiverse.

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618602

 

If you don't have access to a printer you can send me a message and I can print you a few for a small fee.

 

 

 

featured_preview_Dillon-Anti-Wobble-PIns.jpg

Edited by Michael303
Fix picture.
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4 hours ago, ezra650 said:

I'm using the bearing kit and enjoying it. I agree with you on the detent ball. I don't know if its the material of the ball or the spring but occasionally the ball will get stuck in the cavity and the shellplate will free spin. I was thinking I will switch back to the metal one whenever I take off the shellplate next time.

I haven’t run into that problem, however I have my FFB shell plate cranked down pretty tight to the machine base. 

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Just now, cbrussell said:

I haven’t run into that problem, however I have my FFB shell plate cranked down pretty tight to the machine base. 

I just think that the low mass detent ball seems a bit “squishy” if that makes any sense?

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11 hours ago, ezra650 said:

The zip tie trick did not work well for my RL1100

I’m sorry to hear that, didn’t know they changed the base that much in the 1100. I have the 1050 with an Ammobot drive and the ties work very well.

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10 hours ago, HesedTech said:

I’m sorry to hear that, didn’t know they changed the base that much in the 1100. I have the 1050 with an Ammobot drive and the ties work very well.

Ties are working just fine on the RL1100!

 

👍

5Mp.png

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6 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

Ties are working just fine on the RL1100!

 

👍

5Mp.png

Maybe it was the size/type of zip tie I had. I never could get them to cinch down enough and evenly.

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1 hour ago, ezra650 said:

Maybe it was the size/type of zip tie I had. I never could get them to cinch down enough and evenly.

ezra:

IIRC, I just used common 8" zip ties that probably came from Lowes.......zero issues as they've been on there over a year now!

 

 

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