Just put a wolf reduced power mainspring in my r8.....thats it? Underwhelmed

[Toolguy]

The extended firing pin is good insurance, and might buy you a little bit lighter trigger pull (can't hurt, might help).

With flat moon clips, no difference.

One in a few hundred is most likely a not quite seated primer. Your call whether to turn it up a bit. I adjust mine in 1/8 turn increments, about 4oz of hammer fall per 1/8 turn. A little bit goes a long way.

[PatJones]

I don't have much tolerance for the revolver going click instead of bang. My 627 was running reliably at under 6 lbs, but I had some teething problems when I got the 550. I now take more care to make sure the shell plate on the 550 is as tight as possible, but I've raised the trigger pull to 6 and a half pounds. I've fitted a bobbed hammer for a little more insurance and I could probably lower the pull a bit, but if it ain't broke don't fix it. Once your double action pull is 7 lbs or less, there's not a lot more performance to be gained below that.

[Guitarmageddon]

10 hours ago, PatJones said:

I don't have much tolerance for the revolver going click instead of bang. My 627 was running reliably at under 6 lbs, but I had some teething problems when I got the 550. I now take more care to make sure the shell plate on the 550 is as tight as possible, but I've raised the trigger pull to 6 and a half pounds. I've fitted a bobbed hammer for a little more insurance and I could probably lower the pull a bit, but if it ain't broke don't fix it. Once your double action pull is 7 lbs or less, there's not a lot more performance to be gained below that.

 

Does a bobbed Hammer increase the reliability of setting off the primer? I was just thinking about possibly doing a bobbed hammer actually but I'm not sure if that would complicate my setup at all?

 

Any recommendations? Are they pretty much just a drop in modification?

[Fishbreath]

Here I am sitting at 7.5-8lb, and unable to get any lower without more experimentation than I'm willing to do with major matches coming up.

 

I guess that's the Ruger tax for you.

[PatJones]

22 hours ago, Guitarmageddon said:

 

Does a bobbed Hammer increase the reliability of setting off the primer? I was just thinking about possibly doing a bobbed hammer actually but I'm not sure if that would complicate my setup at all?

 

Any recommendations? Are they pretty much just a drop in modification?

With reduced force on your hammer spring, removing mass from your hammer increases its forward velocity. I don't know how much it helps, but it is a thing.

 

With hand-seated primers I had my 627 running under 6 pounds with an unmodified hammer. I got tired of hand seating primers, so a couple years ago I raised the hammer weight slightly and installed an Apex hammer for insurance.

 

To be fair, I find the Apex hammers very attractive and kinda wanted one anyway. Mine did drop in, but I used the sear from my old hammer. The Performance Center hammers used to have the old-style sears, and this is what is used in the Apex hammer. If you have to fit a sear you may ruin a couple learning.

[Guitarmageddon]

1 hour ago, PatJones said:

With reduced force on your hammer spring, removing mass from your hammer increases its forward velocity. I don't know how much it helps, but it is a thing.

 

With hand-seated primers I had my 627 running under 6 pounds with an unmodified hammer. I got tired of hand seating primers, so a couple years ago I raised the hammer weight slightly and installed an Apex hammer for insurance.

 

To be fair, I find the Apex hammers very attractive and kinda wanted one anyway. Mine did drop in, but I used the sear from my old hammer. The Performance Center hammers used to have the old-style sears, and this is what is used in the Apex hammer. If you have to fit a sear you may ruin a couple learning.

Hmm not entirely sure what style sear this one has then, I never looked too closely. Its an R8 made i think around 2011 or so. 

[Toolguy]

That would be the new MIM sear, only works in a S&W MIM hammer.

[Guitarmageddon]

6 minutes ago, Toolguy said:

That would be the new MIM sear, only works in a S&W MIM hammer.

I may consider the apex tactical hammer. That should be a drop in right? 

https://www.apextactical.com/k-l-frame-hammer-kit-1

 

Quote

Designed using the same pinned sear and stirrup found on the Performance Center hammer, the kit replaces MIM components and, when properly tuned....

edit: I suppose this would mean yes?

Edited August 2, 2021 by Guitarmageddon

[Toolguy]

All the aftermarket hammers are supposed to be drop in, and usually are, but due to small variations over hundreds of thousands of parts, sometimes minor fitting is required.

[pskys2]

6 hours ago, Guitarmageddon said:

Hmm not entirely sure what style sear this one has then, I never looked too closely. Its an R8 made i think around 2011 or so. 

It would be the old style, but it has no affect on anything other than the newer versions are a bit more difficult to keep in when the hammer is out of the gun.

[pskys2]

6 hours ago, Toolguy said:

All the aftermarket hammers are supposed to be drop in, and usually are, but due to small variations over hundreds of thousands of parts, sometimes minor fitting is required.

Recently, like in the last 2 months, I've replaced 3 N Frame Hammers with TK's fine lightened match hammer.  All 3, 627 PC, 627 Pro, 625 PC required the DA Sear to be shortened to even function.  Used a stone and slowly worked them down.  Didn't take long and I like to polish them a bit more  at the same time.

[pskys2]

6 hours ago, Guitarmageddon said:

I may consider the apex tactical hammer. That should be a drop in right? 

https://www.apextactical.com/k-l-frame-hammer-kit-1

 

edit: I suppose this would mean yes?

The Apex hammer (have 1) weighs .85 oz, the TK hammer (have 3) weighs .65 oz.  

Both will probably take a little work on the DA Sear.

 

[Guitarmageddon]

2 hours ago, pskys2 said:

The Apex hammer (have 1) weighs .85 oz, the TK hammer (have 3) weighs .65 oz.  

Both will probably take a little work on the DA Sear.

 

Any input on which parts of the DA sear might require some attention? I currently dont have a stone, but every grit of sandpaper known to man. Will that suffice for the minor fitting the sear may take? 

 

Edit: just sprung for this one on Amazon. For the minor tasks I'll ever need to file things on my guns I figure it should do the trick rather than makeshifting with sandpaper.

 

Wheeler Engineering Professional Gunsmithing File Set , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NW53M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B93HXYHDMMRS5HQBXMA7

 

Got a couple stones and honing oil coming too

Edited August 3, 2021 by Guitarmageddon
link

[pskys2]

14 hours ago, Guitarmageddon said:

 

Any input on which parts of the DA sear might require some attention? I currently dont have a stone, but every grit of sandpaper known to man. Will that suffice for the minor fitting the sear may take? 

 

Edit: just sprung for this one on Amazon. For the minor tasks I'll ever need to file things on my guns I figure it should do the trick rather than makeshifting with sandpaper.

 

Wheeler Engineering Professional Gunsmithing File Set , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NW53M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B93HXYHDMMRS5HQBXMA7

 

Got a couple stones and honing oil coming too

No you want a good stone.  Go to Midway or Brownells, they're not expensive, don't forget to use oil (gun oil is fine) when you use them.

The part that needed fitting is obvious once you start, just go slow.

Drop the hammer onto the stud, with trigger installed.  Mine had the DA Sear, it's the lever, spring loaded, that sticks out a little, a bit too long and I needed to stone off a little to get the trigger to even work.  It didn't take a lot about 20 or 30 strokes with a fine stone.

Once I got the trigger to operate the hammer, I used an Extra Fine Stone to just touch up the back & forward edges and a few strokes on the bottom.  Helps smooth out the let off & reset.

Then I put the rebound block back in and stroked the trigger.  Checked the clearance of the rebound block and the foot of the hammer.  Then I polished those contact surfaces and one needed a few strokes to give clearance and smooth out the reset.  Note that foot is the actual safety of the action, it keeps the hammer from impacting the firing pin if the hammer receives a blow while at rest.

That was it.  Once you get one and slip it in it is pretty obvious what to do for clearance and to smooth out things.  I've shot several thousand rounds and 2 major matches with no issues.  My actions are set for a solid rebound, 36 oz hammer fall and a 4.75 lb action.

[Guitarmageddon]

2 hours ago, pskys2 said:

No you want a good stone.  Go to Midway or Brownells, they're not expensive, don't forget to use oil (gun oil is fine) when you use them.

The part that needed fitting is obvious once you start, just go slow.

Drop the hammer onto the stud, with trigger installed.  Mine had the DA Sear, it's the lever, spring loaded, that sticks out a little, a bit too long and I needed to stone off a little to get the trigger to even work.  It didn't take a lot about 20 or 30 strokes with a fine stone.

Once I got the trigger to operate the hammer, I used an Extra Fine Stone to just touch up the back & forward edges and a few strokes on the bottom.  Helps smooth out the let off & reset.

Then I put the rebound block back in and stroked the trigger.  Checked the clearance of the rebound block and the foot of the hammer.  Then I polished those contact surfaces and one needed a few strokes to give clearance and smooth out the reset.  Note that foot is the actual safety of the action, it keeps the hammer from impacting the firing pin if the hammer receives a blow while at rest.

That was it.  Once you get one and slip it in it is pretty obvious what to do for clearance and to smooth out things.  I've shot several thousand rounds and 2 major matches with no issues.  My actions are set for a solid rebound, 36 oz hammer fall and a 4.75 lb action.

Thanks for the input. I may be reaching back out when I have it sitting in front of me.

So does the hammer block go into the parts bin with the apex hammer then?

 

Also, just been assessing the picture of the apex hammer....you kept the sharp edges on the DA sear , and kept the same angles, but you just ground each face down a bit. Correct?

[pskys2]

1 hour ago, Guitarmageddon said:

Thanks for the input. I may be reaching back out when I have it sitting in front of me.

So does the hammer block go into the parts bin with the apex hammer then?

 

Also, just been assessing the picture of the apex hammer....you kept the sharp edges on the DA sear , and kept the same angles, but you just ground each face down a bit. Correct?

The Hammer Block, i.e. Flag, can be taken out or not your choice.  Most competition actions take it out.  IDPA & NRA Action Pistol (Bianchi Cup type) requires it to be left in.  USPSA & Steel Challenge don't.  Don't throw it away though, like the "safety lock" I take it out and keep it, just in case.

 

No only polish, lightly the face & corners of the sear.  The fitting is actually done on the bottom of it.  And yes keep the same angles on everything.  It doesn't take much & only take off what has to be for the DA Sear to reset onto the Trigger.  Then just polish and run for a while.  If you get hang ups when you shoot a long string and things heat up.  Then take a touch more.  Take too much and you will affect the hammer throw and harm ignition.

[PatJones]

3 hours ago, Guitarmageddon said:

Thanks for the input. I may be reaching back out when I have it sitting in front of me.

So does the hammer block go into the parts bin with the apex hammer then?

 

Also, just been assessing the picture of the apex hammer....you kept the sharp edges on the DA sear , and kept the same angles, but you just ground each face down a bit. Correct?

The hammer block drops down with gravity, it doesn't affect trigger pull. If something impacts the rear of the hammer hard enough to break the hammer pin, the hammer block is the only thing preventing a loud noise. The rebound slide moves the hammer back enough to provide clearance for the hammer block to work, it's not intended to be the primary hammer safety.

 

You only work on the very bottom of the sear. You adjust the length to clear the working surfaces on the trigger. You adjust the angle of the tip if you're experiencing sear clicks.

[Guitarmageddon]

11 minutes ago, PatJones said:

The hammer block drops down with gravity, it doesn't affect trigger pull. If something impacts the rear of the hammer hard enough to break the hammer pin, the hammer block is the only thing preventing a loud noise. The rebound slide moves the hammer back enough to provide clearance for the hammer block to work, it's not intended to be the primary hammer safety.

 

You only work on the very bottom of the sear. You adjust the length to clear the working surfaces on the trigger. You adjust the angle of the tip if you're experiencing sear clicks.

Thanks! Appreciate everyone's input. I think I am armed with the knowledge and now the physical tools to make this happen.

 

In addition to some flitz and a polishing wheel, the stones that I have available range from 320 to 1200. Which do you suggest I start with on the bottom of the sear should I need fitting?

[pskys2]

2 hours ago, Guitarmageddon said:

Thanks! Appreciate everyone's input. I think I am armed with the knowledge and now the physical tools to make this happen.

 

In addition to some flitz and a polishing wheel, the stones that I have available range from 320 to 1200. Which do you suggest I start with on the bottom of the sear should I need fitting?

I'd start with a very fine, over 800 and finish with the 1200.