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redding pro series 9mm die set up tips


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Hey folks

 

 after reading  about others  trying out the newer Redding  Pro series Titanium dies( 9mm)  and finally finding  a set, I am getting ready to install them when they show up this  PM.  I use a dillon  550c. cannot find any specific info on this die set being installed  on a  550 c.

 

I am sure the  depriming/sizing   die is  easy to set up--like the original 9mm dillon was. My concern is getting my bullet seater and crimp dies working properly.  These micrometer included  dies are new to me.

 

any tips on getting the bullet  seater and  crimp dies set  up the right  way?

 

or are they just like the  dillons?

 

I intend to use  dillons locking nut not the ones included in the die set.

 

FWIW, I usually load  a few dummy rounds to verify COAL and crimp before actually reloading.

 

just looking to get it right  the first time

 

thanks  in advance for any info provided

Edited by boatdoc173
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Everything's going to be pretty similar. If you're currently producing rounds with specs that you're happy with use one of those rounds as a guide to get the seating die as close as possible. You'll need to set a "zero" as per the instructions. Setting crimp is fairly easy, you're looking for .377-.379 at the case mouth depending on bullet type. 

 

Any specific reason for the change? I really like Dillon dies and haven't found a need for change yet.

Edited by 4n2t0
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@4n2T0- thanks for the reply -no real reason  to change. I have  read that the redding dies do a great job of sizing brass as  close to the bottom of the case as possible.I have heard that the bullet  seater  is great too. I like my   dillons  but getting another set is almost  1  year away due to back logs of orders and these came available  from Graf and sons  last week

 

although this may be overkill, some have suggested that a spare set of dies is good to have becaus e  things tend to break at the worst times. A second set of dies would make  it easier to continue reloading. Not sure if that logic is correct. I have have the e-clips on my dillon dies and    break many times and always on a sunday or holiday( I  have plenty of extras now)  but Murphys law applies to me mor e  often than not.

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I have all Redding Dies on my 9mm Tool Head.  I find them rather amazing.  I used the videos in the links below to set them up.  The guys channel is pretty good for instructions on other reloading tutorials as well.

 

Seating Die:

 

https://youtu.be/fWkoDoFBH7I

 

Crimp Die:

 

https://youtu.be/_CuhBMnznjs

 

I did remove the spring out of the seating die, to get more consistent seating OAL.  After operating in this fashion for awhile, I am not sure it made much of a difference.  There is a thread on here about removing that spring.

 

Best of luck. 

Edited by Boomstick303
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Posted (edited)

thanks a lot @boomstick.  your opinion and  links are just what I needed--bullet seating video MUCH better than trying to figure out  the redding instructions--again much thanks

Edited by boatdoc173
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boatdoc173:

 

As Boom stated, definitely remove the spring from the Seating die for a bit more consistent OAL.

 

If you notice any "sticking" from the crimp die, the insert can be easily polished/smoothed up to all but eliminate that.

 

I followed the written instructions that come with the dies, and they have operated flawlessly!  My OAL and Crimp consistency has been EXCELLENT!

 

Good luck!

 

:)

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As others have said - Redding dies are worth the little extra you usually pay…I use Redding dies for seating and crimping because I love the ability to “micro-adjust” by reaching up and turning that knob on the top of the supporting die rather that having to loosen that one inch nut that never seems to have a good angle to get your wrench on to loosen or tighten….But that is just my opinion….

 

I like you and others really like my Dillon dies - have some sets that I have used for over 20 years and they are still consistent and work but having an extra set of dies - especially in the world we live in today - is not a good idea - it is a great idea…..No one knows what will happen tomorrow so you plan for the worst had pray for the best….I called it being smart and prepared….

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I ,obviously,agree with your post@sigarmsp226.  much appreciated

 

 everything set up well.  dummy rounds load easily in my "problem child"  so I am good to  go. first 10 rounds did everything they were supposed to  .

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9 hours ago, boatdoc173 said:

I ,obviously,agree with your post@sigarmsp226.  much appreciated

 

 everything set up well.  dummy rounds load easily in my "problem child"  so I am good to  go. first 10 rounds did everything they were supposed to  .

I'll also chime in to share that one of the things that makes it easy for me to "brag" about the Redding dies is the consistency/repeatability of the Pro Micrometer dies!  IE, if I change bullet type/size/profile, and I need to shorten/lengthen the OAL say .005", I can refer to my notes and move the seating die micrometer .005" and it will be very, very close to my desired setting!

 

As Mark mentioned, much easier to reach up and adjust the micrometer vs "trying" to adjust reset the 1" die nut!  IMO, they are very much worth the additional costs!

 

:) 

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Ditto on the above regarding Redding dies.  I use them for all pistol calibers I reload for on my Dillon 550.  I leave the spring in the Redding micrometer seating die.  I believe that it helps to align the bullet for straighter seating from the beginning of the process. It made a huge difference in accuracy for reloading lead semi wadcutters for .45 caliber.  The groups tightened and the fliers came back into the group.  I keep a RamRodz "q-tip" of the same caliber handy with some case lube on it to periodically swab out the micrometer crimp die through the top.

 

Good luck and stay safe.  Michael

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1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:

I'll also chime in to share that one of the things that makes it easy for me to "brag" about the Redding dies is the consistency/repeatability of the Pro Micrometer dies!  IE, if I change bullet type/size/profile, and I need to shorten/lengthen the OAL say .005", I can refer to my notes and move the seating die micrometer .005" and it will be very, very close to my desired setting!

 

As Mark mentioned, much easier to reach up and adjust the micrometer vs "trying" to adjust reset the 1" die nut!  IMO, they are very much worth the additional costs!

 

:) 

This is the same process I do. I have notes detailing the setting of the micrometer for each of the bullet weight and type I load on my 1100. Makes the reloading process simpler and life easier.

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Clean the dies with brake cleaner out side or something to get rid of the preservative.  The preservative Redding uses is nasty.  Especially on dies that have been on dealer shelves for a while.  It is almost like a shellac once it set up.  Make to clean the seater really good.  Some reloaders issues are related to NOT cleaning the dies before use making them sluggish and providing inconsistent COAL. 

I believe the titanium size is smoother in operation than the Sizer from Dillon.  With Dillon raising their prices, Redding Pro Series are cheaper than Dillon now.

Not the Competition Pro Series of course.

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They were very specific about  cleaning the dies in their instructions. I scrubbed  them and then per instructions  coated  the inside with case  lube  and wiped the excess  off.  all is smooth so far

 

thanks for the post

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