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Here becuase this is the only place that appears to have good info on Tanfoglio witness


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I am old, retired test engineer. 

I just got a Tanfog STOCK III in 10mm.  This will be my 3rd or forth (lost track ) 10mm

A friend just got a Tanfog Witness steel so questions and such may apply to that also.

 

I am using this as a test place to learn how this board works, Please advise if I should post in another area.

 

I will move the reloading questions to that section.  The link above ( if it copied correctly) is a good start on getting my SA pull down.

 

I reduced the hammer hooks to about 0.016 on the factory hammer and lightly stoned the sear.  From comments here, the factory parts are only surface hard.

I did not change the sear angle or hammer hook angles as a result.

This level of "change" in addition to ditching the spring in the fire pin block did improve the trigger pull in SA a lot.

Question:  IF I cough up the cash for the extreme hammer (Titan) and the EGW one piece sear will that give me a way better SA trigger pull?

 

 

The configuration of my guns often change. 

 

realy small for board IMG_6006.JPG

res reduced for board sear in gun with nut IMG_4314.jpg

res crop for boardIMG_6303.JPG

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on the hammer and sear question I'll offer a question and answer

 

Q how many rounds do you shoot a year? if the answer is a thousand or two you will likely be fine with the stock components lasting many years without problem, Many here shoot than many over a long weekend so their recommendations may be different.

 

that out of the way there are several areas that need to be addressed for a great trigger pull, lots of places to polish and several springs to play with, if you are shooting full power 10mm I would stay away from going lighter on your main spring, you want as much help lowing the slide down as you can get, I would also get a egw firing pin stop with the square bottom they help slow the slide as well.

 

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I will not be shooing more then 1000 rounds  a year, ever. 

 

I have the Wolf 20 lb recoil spring in the gun .  I shoot both full power and reduced loads.

 

The main question I have for the Titan hammer and sear, will it reduce the creep (not the pounds) more then my reducing the hammer hooks on the factory parts did?

 

I suspect I can reduce the hammer hooks more with out having Doubling etc, but so far no one has offered up a Min safe hammer hook dimension. 

 

The sear to hammer hook geometry is difference on the titian parts, I suspect, but would like confirmation that the different geometry of the titian parts reduces creep compared to the factory parts with the hammer hooks reduced in length..

 

With my current factory parts and the reduced hammer hooks ( I did not change the sear angles, just a very light polish to smooth the sear)  as the trigger is pulled in SA, I can see the hammer move back (being cocked ever so slightly) before sear release.  Will the Titian parts eliminate this due to the different geometry?

 

and

 

I understand that a safe min hammer hook dimension will be gun dependent because of other tolerance stack-ups.

 

thanks for the input

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The following info from the included link/thread inclines me to think the Titan will be better then the stock hammer.  But..............$160 (sear and hammer), the cost is fine if it is a significant creep reducer.

 

 

 

The titan hammer is the far one and the stock hammer is the close one. The hammer legs are at the same position in this picture and when the sear rests against the legs the sear is able to drop lower in the stock hammer (reason why the titan hammer in SA is so crisp). The sear dropping lower into the hammer allows the sear leg to lift higher to engage the FPB this is the reason for the Extended FPB to be installed with the titan hammers. Although I am still not reaching the FPB to engage it for safety for my USPSA matches

 

 

Tanfoglio Hammers.jpg

 

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