Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Two pass reloaders, is the 1st pass before or after cleaning brass???


Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, JDIllon said:

SORRY! I meant Shooting Sports Innovations! It also sticks on the down stroke of my 1050 with 9mm! So does the Photo Escape stick? And how does a coated bullet sit on the case from a bullet feeder? I can,t find a happy setting so coated bullet don’t fall off or lay over about 1 or 2% of the rnds? JD  

JD:

As I stated above, you may not have a PE powder funnel that is correctly sized for the diameter of your coated bullets.  IE, if your using a .357" or .358" oversized coated bullet, your .357" PE powder funnel may be too small to provide a stable seat for your bullets.

 

PE sells the larger machined funnels just for this reason:

 

https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/9htc-ptu.html

 

👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

15 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

I have both presses set to taper crimp at .370” and they both usually hold a +/-.003” so because I can get the resistance I need to prevent set back on my taper crimp die I decided to not use the U die for my current 9mm bullet applications…. 

Sig:

That .370" crimp also strikes me as a bit "tight"......possibly a typo error?

 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Sarge said:

.370 is pretty low for 9mm since .378 is normal target.


Sarge and HogRider - You both are right - I went back out and checked my numbers. On my .355” bullets I shoot for .375” - .380”  - not 370”.
 

Thanks for checking me on this as I am betting a .370” on a .355” bullet would not even look right.  Sorry for my posting error…..Mark

Edited by Sigarmsp226
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

 

For me, there were 3 stations on the RL1100 that were all contributing to "sticking".  The Station 3 Dillon expander, the original Station 5 MBF powder funnel, and the Station 8 Redding Taper Crimp.  After addressing the causes in each station, I am 99% sticking free!  

 


Hogrider,

how did you address sticking at station 3, with the Dillon expander?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ordered a funnel from photo express. If it works, that will be great. If not, it will go into a box with way too many other “accessories” I’ve ordered over the years that didn’t quite work out. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Cuz said:


Hogrider,

how did you address sticking at station 3, with the Dillon expander?

Cuz:

As you can see in the pics, I only needed a fuzz off to eliminate the minor sticking coming from the expander.  Have a great friend that's a master machinist.    ;)

 

Expander Size2.png

Expander Size3.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, HOGRIDER said:

Cuz:

As you can see in the pics, I only needed a fuzz off to eliminate the minor sticking coming from the expander.  Have a great friend that's a master machinist.    ;)

 

Expander Size2.png

Expander Size3.png

Well, those kinds of friends certainly come in handy!!!

 

thanks. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

JD:

As I stated above, you may not have a PE powder funnel that is correctly sized for the diameter of your coated bullets.  IE, if your using a .357" or .358" oversized coated bullet, your .357" PE powder funnel may be too small to provide a stable seat for your bullets.

 

PE sells the larger machined funnels just for this reason:

 

https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/9htc-ptu.html

 

👍

I don’t have a PE funnel. I ordered one today. JD 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

ddc - I do not have the CNC Shooter Toohead but I do have a second Redding Premium Expander die that came in today for my son that I will be giving to him on Sunday when we meet him to give the grandgirls back. I am happy to provide pictures and measurements while I have his die in hand - I just need some guidance on what to measure. I also have Lee and Dillon 9mm dies on hand if a side by side photo would be better.  
 

Let me know what I can provide that might help you and I will be happy to get the pictures and/or measurements together tomorrow and post or send to you through a message….Mark

Mark,

The Lee die mikes approx .835 at the knurling and clears the primer bracket.

The Lyman M mikes approx .885 at the knurling and does not.

I'd be curious to see what the Redding number is.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DDC - Wanted to provide two photos to make sure I am measuring where you want me too.  If I misunderstood your request just guide me to the right spot please. I have the die, calipers, and I-Phone all in hand and ready to help anyway I can…Standing by for your review and feedback….Mark
 

 

7-E3-F2-D62-5224-4367-B682-92972378-C652
 

CB178-B6-B-F5-B6-43-AE-968-C-75-CC68-E00

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

DDC - Wanted to provide two photos to make sure I am measuring where you want me too.  If I misunderstood your request just guide me to the right spot please. I have the die, calipers, and I-Phone all in hand and ready to help anyway I can…Standing by for your review and feedback….Mark
 

 

7-E3-F2-D62-5224-4367-B682-92972378-C652
 

CB178-B6-B-F5-B6-43-AE-968-C-75-CC68-E00

 

That's the spot, thanks a million.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found the UniqueTek funnels cured my sticking issues.  The one for 358 coated for 9mm for revo shooters was a godsend in fixing the scraping I was occasionally getting on my 650.

 I only got around to getting one when I set up my Revolution toolhead.  Churned out 10k like butter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, MikeyScuba said:

I found the UniqueTek funnels cured my sticking issues.  The one for 358 coated for 9mm for revo shooters was a godsend in fixing the scraping I was occasionally getting on my 650.

 I only got around to getting one when I set up my Revolution toolhead.  Churned out 10k like butter.


And with this information from Mikey it all ties together…

 

If you look at the fine print on the UniqueTek website it states that the powder funnels they sell are made by Photo Escape…

 

Mikey - Thank you for posting this information about your success with the powder funnel they sell.  Adds another level of confidence that the Photo Escape powder funnel I am running maybe the best powder funnel in the market today……

 

HogRider - You are THE MAN….for directing me to Photo Escape….Thanks…Mark

Edited by Sigarmsp226
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you guys using the ratchet on any of your toolheads?  
 

I don’t use it on my processing toolhead, but I’m not quite confident enough to remove it from my loading toolhead. But it’s giving me fits. I can’t seem to get the release lever mechanism to function correctly. Either it won’t get locked back at the end of the down stroke, or it doesn’t always release at the top of the up stroke. Other times it doesn’t engage the ratchet. One of the Dillon tech support guys commented that most people take it off and don’t use it, which has me wondering what you all are doing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Cuz said:

Are you guys using the ratchet on any of your toolheads?  
 

I don’t use it on my processing toolhead, but I’m not quite confident enough to remove it from my loading toolhead. But it’s giving me fits. I can’t seem to get the release lever mechanism to function correctly. Either it won’t get locked back at the end of the down stroke, or it doesn’t always release at the top of the up stroke. Other times it doesn’t engage the ratchet. One of the Dillon tech support guys commented that most people take it off and don’t use it, which has me wondering what you all are doing?

Cuz:

After many, many years of using XL650s that DO NOT use any kind of "safety ratchet" system, the ratchet on my RL1100 came off after about the first 30 setup/test rounds!  Immediately proved to be a PITA!

 

Come to find out that most experienced users remove the 1050/1100 ratchet systems as soon as they bolt the press down.

 

IIRC, I've read here that if you experience a stoppage then empty the shell plate and once the issue(s) are resolved then start over from scratch.  Any questionable rounds that were removed from the shell plate can be disassembled and run through the press again.

 

👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I definitely hear you guys, but I’m coming from 20+ years on a rl550 and never had auto-indexing. It kinda scares me a little, but I may have to remove it as I’m wasting too much time just getting it to work. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, Cuz said:

I definitely hear you guys, but I’m coming from 20+ years on a rl550 and never had auto-indexing. It kinda scares me a little, but I may have to remove it as I’m wasting too much time just getting it to work. 

Cuz:

IMO, remove the ratchet as that will be one less thing you have to worry about!

 

Even though I have no experience with the RL550, I feel that the RL1100 is not a huge leap in the way you process reloads.  Every time you pull the handle on the 550, there's 4 stations with 4 processes being executed.  And like the 550, the 1100 won't do a thing until you pull the handle!  Yea, there's 8 stations but IMO most are set and forget!  Station #1, 2, 3, 4, 7, and 8 are pretty much set and forget especially if your using same headstamp brass!  

 

With the 1100, again IMO, once you have the primer depth set correctly that takes care of that; but still demands meticulous maintenance/cleaning of the priming system!  Station #5 powder drop should not be any more complicated than with the 550!  Well lubed and properly adjusted!  And the options for powder checks/camera systems are plentiful to alleviate that worry concern.

 

Can't remember if your using a MBF or manual placement of bullets; but again once it's set up your good to go until you change bullet size and/or style.

 

Finally, seat and crimp dies are as I stated, set and forget until you change bullets.

 

FOR ME, I have gotten very comfortable with the RL1100 by having the camera system that allows me a visual check of each round just before the bullet drops.  Every time I return the handle to TDC, I quickly glance at the right half of the shellplate, glance at the 10" tablet showing me an excellent view of the case and approximate powder level, and finally a quick glance at station #7 to make sure the bullet is correctly oriented.  

 

You set the pace and go from there!

 

Good luck!  

 

👍😁

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hog brings up,a,good point. I like Hog have loaded on a XL650 for many years and with it being an auto index machine it is a much smaller step going to the RL1100 vs. a manual machine like the 550 (which is the machine I started with before going to the 650).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way the ratchet is designed on the 1050 means that you'll be going through a bunch of them.  I think I've gone through 4 already.  Better just to get rid of it until Dillon or the aftermarket designs something better.

Edited by SnipTheDog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just curious, are you guys removing the ratchet itself? When I set mine up, I removed the locking tab rather than the ratchet, because I didn't have anything handy to properly space out the cam bolt back to where it should be. But the ratchet itself is a PITA when manipulating the toolhead etc. I need to find some proper washers or machine a spacer for the cam bolt...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, highxj said:

Just curious, are you guys removing the ratchet itself? When I set mine up, I removed the locking tab rather than the ratchet, because I didn't have anything handy to properly space out the cam bolt back to where it should be. But the ratchet itself is a PITA when manipulating the toolhead etc. I need to find some proper washers or machine a spacer for the cam bolt...

high:

This worked perfect for me...........

 

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285434-issues-with-rl1100/?do=findComment&comment=3181751

 

👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, highxj said:

Just curious, are you guys removing the ratchet itself? When I set mine up, I removed the locking tab rather than the ratchet, because I didn't have anything handy to properly space out the cam bolt back to where it should be. But the ratchet itself is a PITA when manipulating the toolhead etc. I need to find some proper washers or machine a spacer for the cam bolt...

Why would you have to space out the cam bolt?  It looks long enough to work just fine without the ratchet. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...