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Muzzle brake/Compensator on a 10mm 2011 build? Home shop build pics added


Reg
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Posted (edited)

I'm told by a parts shop in S. TX (RUDELY!!!) that this won't work on a 10mm as far as recoil reduction.

I'm not a competition shooter nor will I ever be BTW.

 

Something like this pictured below but with a Limcat frame and a Cheely deactivated grip safety

117038384_2624369444493117_357291213747049154_n.jpg

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88301407_2487622368167826_4589217730242019328_n.jpg

88006253_2487627561500640_8317613461907439616_n.jpg

Edited by Reg
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  • Reg changed the title to Muzzle brake/Compensator on a 10mm 2011 build? Home shop build pics added
1 hour ago, Rnlinebacker said:

Minimal reduction at best unless you use a really fast powder

 

Nope.  With a comp you use slow powders to generate enough gas to 'work' the comp.

 

Reg, you will get a lot of flattening and recoil reduction if you use lighter bullets and slow powders.  Here is how a comp works.  Gasses exiting the barrel hit the baffles in the comp driving the gun forward.  At the same time the gasses are directed up and out, reducing muzzle rise.  As you generate more and more gas the gun shoots flatter and softer right up until you generate so much gas the comp can't clear it all.  That results in gas jetting out the front of the comp, which increases felt recoil.

 

Since 10mm is a large case you will not be capacity limited.  When I first started shooting Open I used 40sw in a 5.4" barrel with two 3/16" ports and a comp identical to the one in your picture.  10.1gr SWMP powder (identical to AA7) under a 155gr bullet made 172PF (1110 fps) at 1.18 OAL.  The two poppels rob 25 fps, so you can start with the same load.  You pressure will be lower since your OAL will be much larger.  If you cannot reach the velocity you are looking for with a 155 without gas jetting out the front, go to a 165.

 

You test your loads by shooting into a white cardboard from 1" (yes, one inch) away.  If you get only a light speckling around the hole, your comp is exhausting all the gas.  As you go up in charge you will reach a point where you get more powder residue around the hole.  Back of to the next lighter charge you tested.  That will be the softest shooting load for that combo of powder and bullet.

 

When you are finished you can tell the parts bozo how wrong he was.  If you want to do a little research you will see how to convert a 1911 45ACP to a 460 Roland with a barrel/comp swap and and a few other tweaks.  The comp on that barrel is absolutely required to keep the slide from battering the frame to death, and reducing felt recoil to something tolerable.  A typical 460 Roland load has a 185gr JHP going 1560 fps.  You can get close to this with 10mm using a 155 @ 1500 fps and still be within SAAMI pressure specs.  

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“Reg,” how do you like the Limcat grip texture? I have been thinking of switching to a metal grip, so far the Cheely looks good, but seeing the Limcat, I am now on the fence. It looks like the Limcat has a more conventional shape to it compared with the Cheely E2 grip.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the reply ZZT.  I have to stick with the 10mm though.  I have 20K of NIB brass in 10mm kicking around for 20 plus years.  Also the 2011 holds 23 rounds in the magazine which is what I'm looking for. I unfortunately, need a scope to see with. Like an Aimpoint.

I have a ton of 180 grainers cast up.  Sadly it looks like a comp would be useless then

Edited by Reg
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23 minutes ago, cbrussell said:

“Reg,” how do you like the Limcat grip texture? I have been thinking of switching to a metal grip, so far the Cheely looks good, but seeing the Limcat, I am now on the fence. It looks like the Limcat has a more conventional shape to it compared with the Cheely E2 grip.

I have no clue.  I stole the pics

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Why not just shoot in open without a comp but still a red dot? You could use a faster powder like CFE pistol or WST which would give you a little more muzzle snap but less felt recoil in the hand.

 

Since you're not a competition shooter you don't have to worry about being competitive equity. Nighthawk makes a very nice 10mm double stack package you can get a red dot with. This idea comes from strictly a competition shooter that's a firearms enthusiast lol

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6 hours ago, Reg said:

I have a ton of 180 grainers cast up.  Sadly it looks like a comp would be useless then

 

Lead bullets and comps do not mix well.  Lead is quickly deposited in the comp ports and you have to scrape it out constantly.  You'll want to use heavy plate or JHPs.  Jacketed lead the comp also.  You can shoot 180s with a comp.  It doesn't have to be 155 or 165.  Try your lead.  Just put some Kroil oil in the comp before you shoot and let it sit for a while.  If you clean the lead out of the comp after every shoot, it is less of a hassle.  I you shoot it a bunch before cleaning you will be very, very sorry.

 

BTW the 460 bit was only to show you how effective comps can be with hot loads.  I wasn't trying to talk you out of 10mm.

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I ve had a 10mm comp gun for 25 plus years.

Noticable difference in recoil and muzzle rise than my non comp 10's with bullets from 165to 200.

Lighter faster bullets are flatter but still works significantly with 200gr bullets compared to a non comped gun. FWIW

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Hello, a comp on it will work just fine using slow powder. Have you thought of just using minor loads in the 10mm. Something in the 140 power factor range with no comp since you are using cast bullets. How about a 6" pistol with a slide or frame mounted red dot? Lots of options if you don't need full power 10mm loads. Thanks, Eric

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Posted (edited)
On 7/2/2021 at 10:11 AM, Reg said:

Thanks for the reply ZZT.  I have to stick with the 10mm though.  I have 20K of NIB brass in 10mm kicking around for 20 plus years.  Also the 2011 holds 23 rounds in the magazine which is what I'm looking for. I unfortunately, need a scope to see with. Like an Aimpoint.

I have a ton of 180 grainers cast up.  Sadly it looks like a comp would be useless then

I suppose if you have to shoot lead (and it's cast hard enough for the velocity) you could add gas checks to keep the vaporized lead out of the comp.

Edited by caspian guy
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