RL 1100 new press setup issues.

[Cuz]

To hopefully make this thread more useful, I'm editing it and changing the title.

 

I got through to Dillon and was able to get the handle unstuck from the half-way position, although I'm not really sure how I did it.  I'm coming from a 550, so auto-indexing is new to me.  I guess you can't do down half-way and then change your mind...  Lesson learned.

 

Now, I have a new issue.  No primers are getting inserted.  I'm not seeing any primer slide action so I don't know if I "disconnected" or broke it while trying to get the handle unstuck. 

 

Thanks,

-Cuz

 

Edited June 17, 2021 by Cuz

[HOGRIDER]

Cuz:

One of the first issues I had with my RL1100 was a failure of the primer slide assembly.  After seeing SEVERAL new RL1100 users experiencing the same or similar issue, I wrote this post on FB with an attempt to help others:

 

Have seen several posts from users having issues/problems with the RL1100 Primer Slide Indexing Assembly. Early on, during initial setup/operation, mine moved due to the #13001 Lever Arm Bracket being left too loose from the factory. It immediately started locking up the press when raising the toolhead.

What I found out from inside Dillon, was that the bottom tip of the Slide Actuating Lever is supposed to be about the thickness of a dime (.053") off the floor of the primer slide channel when the handle is all the way down, with the Actuating Lever all the way towards the front. Just so it doesn't rub the channel floor during operation. This determines the height above the toolhead of the silver Lever Arm Bracket. Also, make sure the tip of the Lever sits in FRONT of the slide roll pin sleeve.

For rotation of the silver Lever Arm Bracket, the Slide Actuating Lever should be parallel with the press which will place the Lever approximately middle ways of the roll pin sleeve. Example of mine after final adjustments.

Of course, if the machine has been in use for some time, a thorough cleaning of the primer slide and channel area is a prerequisite!

I also recommend a drop of blue loctite on the Lever Arm Bracket screw prior to final adjustment.

 

[HOGRIDER]

I also remembered that I made a mark on the Primer Mag Shield showing the correct height of the Lever Arm Bracket. That gives me a quick reference point in my pre-load checklist..........

 

This shows the approximate height of my Lever Arm Bracket above the tool head at full up position.

 

HTHs

[HOGRIDER]

3 hours ago, Cuz said:

I got through to Dillon and was able to get the handle unstuck from the half-way position, although I'm not really sure how I did it.  I'm coming from a 550, so auto-indexing is new to me.  I guess you can't do down half-way and then change your mind...  Lesson learned.

 

 

One of the first things I picked up on when using the RL1100 was to NEVER stop the handle half-way through unless it's locked up and won't go any further!  ALWAYS complete the stroke, then go back and remove the ammo from each station; fix the problem, then start over.

 

Always disassemble any rounds that may have an issue or been a part of/involved in a stoppage!

 

[Cuz]

12 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

I also remembered that I made a mark on the Primer Mag Shield showing the correct height of the Lever Arm Bracket. That gives me a quick reference point in my pre-load checklist..........

 

This shows the approximate height of my Lever Arm Bracket above the tool head at full up position.

 

HTHs

thanks, this pic is great for comparison!

[Cuz]

Another thing you should do BEFORE putting any powder in the dispenser is rotate the powder adjusting knob fully counterclockwise to minimum charge and then adjust clockwise as needed.  I failed to check the setting until after I put powder in and was going to weigh a charge to see where I was at.  Well, it was wide open and I dumped a max charge of powder EVERYWHERE.  ARGH, stupid stuff I should have known.

 

I can also see that a critical accessory is a case feeder stop.  I got one from Inline Fab, but a few places make them.  Once the tube fills with cases it's a pain to try and work through a problem if new cases keep getting put on the shell plate.

[Cuz]

12 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

Cuz:

One of the first issues I had with my RL1100 was a failure of the primer slide assembly.  After seeing SEVERAL new RL1100 users experiencing the same or similar issue, I wrote this post on FB with an attempt to help others:

 

Have seen several posts from users having issues/problems with the RL1100 Primer Slide Indexing Assembly. Early on, during initial setup/operation, mine moved due to the #13001 Lever Arm Bracket being left too loose from the factory. It immediately started locking up the press when raising the toolhead.

What I found out from inside Dillon, was that the bottom tip of the Slide Actuating Lever is supposed to be about the thickness of a dime (.053") off the floor of the primer slide channel when the handle is all the way down, with the Actuating Lever all the way towards the front. Just so it doesn't rub the channel floor during operation. This determines the height above the toolhead of the silver Lever Arm Bracket. Also, make sure the tip of the Lever sits in FRONT of the slide roll pin sleeve.

For rotation of the silver Lever Arm Bracket, the Slide Actuating Lever should be parallel with the press which will place the Lever approximately middle ways of the roll pin sleeve. Example of mine after final adjustments.

Of course, if the machine has been in use for some time, a thorough cleaning of the primer slide and channel area is a prerequisite!

I also recommend a drop of blue loctite on the Lever Arm Bracket screw prior to final adjustment.

 

 

 

Thank you!!!

This is just the info I needed.  I'm not going to be mad at Dillon for not setting my press up correctly, instead, I'm going to be glad that I have one to begin with.  And, by having to verify all this "stuff", I'm learning a lot more about my new press.  It's a huge step up from the 550B.  Especially with a bullet feeder and case feeder.

 

[HOGRIDER]

54 minutes ago, Cuz said:

I can also see that a critical accessory is a case feeder stop.  I got one from Inline Fab, but a few places make them.  Once the tube fills with cases it's a pain to try and work through a problem if new cases keep getting put on the shell plate.

Yea, I use the Inline Fabrication case feed stop also.  Works like a charm!

 

Also recommend a Ammo Brass LLC swage setter.  

 

And highly recommend a Dillon Spare Parts kit.  If not, then at least order a few extra #12486 Cam Guide Bolts!  One of those situations where the latest bolt is "not made like they used to make them" if you get my drift...........

 

You'll love the RL1100 once you get it set up the way you like it!

 

[DRider8]

Dillon has vidios on their site that show you how to correct most of the problems that you have mentioned.

[ddc]

Also note that many people, myself included, remove the ratchet mechanism.

 

[George16]

I second buying the Ammobrass Swage setter. I bought the 9mm/.223 and setting the Swage rod has never been easier.

[Cuz]

19 hours ago, DRider8 said:

Dillon has vidios on their site that show you how to correct most of the problems that you have mentioned.

Ha, I was all over YouTube and completely forgot to check Dillon for videos. 

 

I just went and checked them out, you are right, lots of videos for the RL 1100:

https://www.dillonprecision.com/rl1100-product-videos.html

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by Cuz
Added link to Dillon videos.

[Cuz]

18 hours ago, ddc said:

Also note that many people, myself included, remove the ratchet mechanism.

 

 

But then you don't get that cool sound...

[Cuz]

So, progressing on, I'm getting some primers sucked back into the pockets which is messing up my flow.  I may try my Lee decap/size die, but it seems a lot of folks are using Mighty Armory or FW Arms decapping dies.

 

For those folks running just a decapper die, when do you size the brass?  It seems like the rest of the spots are being used.

[dansedgli]

A seperate step.

I think people only do that if they are automated. 

 

If you are using dillon dies change the decapping pin. There has been some posts about putting an edge on the pin to help stop it too. 

 

I've had pull back issues and just changed it out and that sorted it. 

[67isb]

1 hour ago, Cuz said:

 I'm getting some primers sucked back into the pockets which is messing up my flow. 

 

 

try taking some some fine sandpaper or stone and remove the sharp edges on the decapping pin.  This will prevent it from getting sucked back in.

[Cuz]

Thanks for the info.

Next issuue, I'm getting light strikes when testing ammo.  I think in 20 years on a 550, priming on up stroke, I've probably had less than 10 light strikes due to the primer not seating.  Now, I'm getting 2 or 3 every 15 shots.  I'm using the same two Glocks, and yes they do have lighter 4.5 lb striker springs.  But that's never been a problem.  I guess I'll have to figure out how to adjust the primer seating depth gizmo.  Hmmm, maybe this time I'll start with the Dillon videos and see what they have...

 

This has definitely been a learning process, that's for sure.

 

[HOGRIDER]

27 minutes ago, Cuz said:

Thanks for the info.

Next issuue, I'm getting light strikes when testing ammo.  I think in 20 years on a 550, priming on up stroke, I've probably had less than 10 light strikes due to the primer not seating.  Now, I'm getting 2 or 3 every 15 shots.  I'm using the same two Glocks, and yes they do have lighter 4.5 lb striker springs.  But that's never been a problem.  I guess I'll have to figure out how to adjust the primer seating depth gizmo.  Hmmm, maybe this time I'll start with the Dillon videos and see what they have...

 

This has definitely been a learning process, that's for sure.

 

Cuz:

Another optional add-on that definitely helps to stabilize the cases for consistent primer seating depth.  

 

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/284641-rl-1100-and-everglades-primer-hold-down/

 

This has proven to be a valuable add-on to MY RL1100!

 

https://www.evergladesammo.com/ega-hold-down-die.html

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by HOGRIDER
sp

[AHI]

Adjust the primer seating depth.  No extra parts are needed. It's a Allen screw in the tool head near station two.

Adjust till they are below flush. 

Edited June 19, 2021 by AHI

[George16]

1 hour ago, AHI said:

Adjust the primer seating depth.  No extra parts are needed. It's a Allen screw in the tool head near station two.

Adjust till they are below flush. 

This. 
 

 

@Cuz, check out page 30 of the 1100 manual. It shows how to adjust primer seating depth. Dillon recommends adjusting the primer seating so the primers are seated between .002” - .006” (.008” max) below the case head. Use a 5/32” Allen wrench to adjust the Primer Adjusting Push Rod up or down to get the desired depth as recommended by Dillon.

 

I don’t have the Everglades gizmo but my primers are seated at the proper depth without any problems. I don’t believe it’s really necessary as long as the primer Adjusting Push Rod is adjusted proeprly.

 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by George16

[Cuz]

Thanks all,

Dillon had the exact video I needed.  I will adjust seating depth and test.

Still getting some stuck primers, going to try my Lee Die since I already have it lying around. 

 

When I have some free time I may just have to watch all the RL 1100 videos.

[Cuz]

Update, the Lee decap/size die is too short to install.  I would need about 3 more threads to make it work.  I guess I could put the lock nut under the tool head, but I don't like that.  I filed down the Dillon decapping pin to flatten one side and I'll try that.

 

I am a little annoyed that spent primers miss the cup and fly all over the place.  I got a primer catcher thingy from RangePanda when I ordered the MBF mount, but now I'm sort of dependent on watching for the primer to fall out of the case to make sure it didn't get stuck.

 

I got the primer seating issue squared away, or at least I think so.  I'll take my son to the range tomorrow and we'll see if we get any light strikes.

 

[dansedgli]

With the lee die just try flipping the Lee nut over. It doesn't need to go under the toolhead. 

 

There is gap where the O ring goes so if you flip it you will have more of the thread lower down.  

[mkmckinley]

I had a problem with high primers in my Super 1050 that I ended up having to fix with the Everglades die. I have a Level 10 Innovations die i bound to try out as well. 
 

The funny thing is I never had light strikes, but I did have failures to feed due to the high primer kind of high centering on the breachface. It drove me crazy thinking it was a seating depth or bullet profile issue. Barely high primers would chamber and shoot just fine, but there was a threshold at which they wouldn’t feed. I wrote down the measurements but don’t have them handy now, and it varied by headstamp and pistol model (Golcks were less tolerant than my X5). Getting the primers squared away fixed everything. 
 

reason I bring it up is that when you test fire you may not have light strikes but if you have feed issues it could be the primer depth. 

[dansedgli]

1 minute ago, mkmckinley said:

I had a problem with high primers in my Super 1050 that I ended up having to fix with the Everglades die. I have a Level 10 Innovations die i bound to try out as well. 
 

The funny thing is I never had light strikes, but I did have failures to feed due to the high primer kind of high centering on the breachface. It drove me crazy thinking it was a seating depth or bullet profile issue. Barely high primers would chamber and shoot just fine, but there was a threshold at which they wouldn’t feed. I wrote down the measurements but don’t have them handy now, and it varied by headstamp and pistol model (Golcks were less tolerant than my X5). Getting the primers squared away fixed everything. 
 

reason I bring it up is that when you test fire you may not have light strikes but if you have feed issues it could be the primer depth. 

 

When you had issues were you still running the backup die over the swage? Was it adjusted correctly? 

 

In the early days of 1050 ownership I tried running the press without the backup dies and would have priming problems. I was loading 38 super so figured it wasn't needed. I replaced all the parts with no change then finally put the backup die in and all was good again. 

 

Since then apart from the occasional crushed primer or problem when the machine is dirty I haven't really had any problems. The shellplate is tightened as much as it will go then loosened 1/8th of a turn.

 

Last friday night I had a few priming issues in 300 rounds so cleaned the machine and the following day I loaded 9200 rounds with zero primer issues. The shellplate and under the shellplate was spotless at the end. 

 

I find that the primer punch will get a build up of crap on it (especially if you just run the machine to size and deprime first) so it is no longer flat, when this happens primers tilt and problems happen.