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Case rim gouging issue.


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I'm having an issue on my 1050. The rim of the case is getting gouging/marred and its causing the case not to fail the case gauge. 

 

I've switched sizing does. It's still happening. I tried to clean out the shell plate where the cases sit. It's still happening. I tested out about 30 cases before running them in the press. I turned them upside down and all the case rims would fit in the gauge. Then ran them all thru station 2 to resize.  Each case gauged. Then rant them thru the press and tried to gauge the loaded rounds and 3 failed with the gouging. 

 

I guess it could be another station but not sure how. The shell plate pockets seem to be clear of debris. 

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks. 

6665ED18-E814-4441-9580-E7568787F757.png

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20 minutes ago, Jmo2011 said:

Have you checked the depth of the hold down die in the swage station. Maybe the mark could be from upward pressure caused by the swage rod?

I have not but I will. Thanks. 

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I'm having this same issue on my 1100 currently with 9mm. It can be multiple things it seems. Swage rod is jamming brass in the shellplate. Primer punch is pushing too far upward causing the case to jam in shellplate (back out primer op rod) . Or shellplate is not tight enough on the press. 

I was troubleshooting mine last night a little. One way you can tell the case jams is tap it with your finger while in the shellplate. If it has no play and is at a slight angle you know that case is jammed on the plate. If you remove the locator pin and try to remove the case it will be tight/difficult to do so.  The next die unjams it so you have to catch it as it happens. Currently I'm noticing mine are jammed before going into the powder drop station. The powder funnel unjams them, but I am left with the damaged case. Until I read the above reply I didn't even think to double check my swage hold down. It's possible the case is getting jammed there and stays jammed until it reaches powder drop or whatever next die puts downward pressure on it from above. I've been playing with my primer punch thinking that was the culprit with no success. I'll be resetting my swag hold down die tonight. 

Note that brass jammed in the shellplate like this can also cause the powder funnel to hit the case mouth off center and peel the mouth down. Depends on how hard its jammed. Harder its jammed the more tilt the brass has and will not align with the funnel. 

Let us know what your solution is. 

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On 6/1/2021 at 8:11 PM, B_RAD said:

I'm having an issue on my 1050. The rim of the case is getting gouging/marred and its causing the case not to fail the case gauge. 

 

I've switched sizing does. It's still happening. I tried to clean out the shell plate where the cases sit. It's still happening. I tested out about 30 cases before running them in the press. I turned them upside down and all the case rims would fit in the gauge. Then ran them all thru station 2 to resize.  Each case gauged. Then rant them thru the press and tried to gauge the loaded rounds and 3 failed with the gouging. 

 

I guess it could be another station but not sure how. The shell plate pockets seem to be clear of debris. 

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks. 

6665ED18-E814-4441-9580-E7568787F757.png

I second the post re checking the swage bar. I had that happen using my 1100 when I didn’t notice that my Swage bar loosened up and was protruding in the shell plate more than it need to while processing .223 brass. In fact, I broke the shell plate (the rim that holds the case in place) because I went ahead and pulled the press handle as hard as I could thinking it was only a crimped primer pocket when in fact it was the Swage bar pushing the case higher than it need to be.

 

I called Dillon and let them know what happened and they replaced the broken shell plate free of charge. 

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I have been having the same problem and also dealing with high primers. Relatively low round count Super 1050 (less than 3000 rounds loaded). When I turn the push rod (#12819) clockwise it seems to make the case gouging/sticking worse but only minimally helps with the high primers. It’s ruining a lot of cases at the powder drop which is extra crappy because they’ve already been primed!

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I'm still not sure what the issue is. 

 

I ran 50 cases thru the first stages. Then gauged them. They all passed. 

 

Then put them back in the case feeder and ran them thru completely and had a few do this.

 

I cleaned the shell plate case pockets. So that's one thing I can check off the list. 

 

 

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On 6/6/2021 at 9:47 PM, B_RAD said:

I'm still not sure what the issue is. 

 

I ran 50 cases thru the first stages. Then gauged them. They all passed. 

 

Then put them back in the case feeder and ran them thru completely and had a few do this.

 

I cleaned the shell plate case pockets. So that's one thing I can check off the list. 

 

 

 I figured out mine was primarily the shellplate being too loose. It was only about 1/8 turn looser than before. I had just stripped the machine down after a 10Krd run and didnt tighten it enough. I have noticed if you like to seat primers deep below flush it will still put that gouge on the rim occasionally. I am getting a primer hold down die now to allow me deeper primer seating with no issues. I also plan to get an aftermarket shellplate later down the road and set the dillon one aside as a backup

 

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Swaging in 1050/1100.

 

I’ve had similar problems to many, inconsistent primer depth, damaged brass, etc…. The solution is simple, but defeats the single pass process. 
 

Brass bases, can significantly differ in thickness. Setting the swage punch/holdown to a single head stamp will cause slight differences where the press ram stops, depending on the stamp. I also went to the TNT shell plate for 9mm and 223. They are a bit more robust and have less play in the slots. 
 

I also use two pass processing, the first is to simply decap, swage and size the brass. 

Edited by HesedTech
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3 hours ago, B_RAD said:

I have or had it. Blew up a stack of primers. Removed it. Ha. 

 

Not fun. So you're thinking that using the hold down created a situation that caused the blow up?

 

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53 minutes ago, ddc said:

 

Not fun. So you're thinking that using the hold down created a situation that caused the blow up?

 

I spoke with lvl 10 about just this. They said if you haven’t properly swaged primer pockets it can happen. At this point I’m willing to risk it. I have tried tightening the shellplate to within a couple degrees of where it starts binging and I’m still having bound cases and high/canted primers.
 

I will try the TNT shellplate when I can find one in stock. Another idea is a CNC toolhead threaded above the primer station and just use another Dillon hold down die like the one above the swaging station.  

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On 6/15/2021 at 9:44 AM, ddc said:

 

Not fun. So you're thinking that using the hold down created a situation that caused the blow up?

 

Yes. 

 

It might have been a combination of the promer anvil set too deep and the hold down. Without the hold down, the case moves and no bang. With the hold down; the case doesn't move and the primer gets set too deep and bang. That's my theory. 

 

Also, add in the chance of not being properly swagged, then bang. 

 

 

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The $17 Everglades Ammo hold down die fixed it for me, perfectly primed cases every time. I understand there could be a risk of primer det, but it’s the difference between a press that makes functional ammo and one that doesn’t. 
 

The Level 10 innovations die is like $100 but it allows a little travel which I guess may reduce the chance of primer det. Another option could be to get a CNC toolhead with threads over the priming station and using a size die, expander die, or even a Dillon swage backer die. I have not tried any of those, but food for thought. 
 

I’m prepared to deal with a primer detonation and have set up some extra PPE to mitigate that risk. 
 

 

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On 6/19/2021 at 6:15 PM, mkmckinley said:

 

I’m prepared to deal with a primer detonation and have set up some extra PPE to mitigate that risk. 
 

 

I wear eye protection but am looking for a lightweight face shield to provide additional protection.

I've tried using my old wood shop shield but it is way too clunky.

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Primer detonation should be avoided. 

 

 

This problem just carpet up in the last few months. 

 

I've cleaned the sheel plate. Reset stations 1-4. 

 

I did get a new powder die around the time this started but can't see how that's causing it. 

 

The next step is to buy a new shell plate. 

 

Also, I'm noticing that the rounds fail more in my hundo that they do in my single car gauge. 

 

 

 

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59 minutes ago, B_RAD said:

Also, I'm noticing that the rounds fail more in my hundo that they do in my single car gauge. 

 

What single case guage are you using? I've noticed on my Dillon singles that those chambers are more loose than a hundo.

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35 minutes ago, TheChewycookie said:

What single case guage are you using? I've noticed on my Dillon singles that those chambers are more loose than a hundo.

It's a Lyman. I'm sure it's the same as far as being looser than the hundo

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On 6/19/2021 at 6:15 PM, mkmckinley said:

I’m prepared to deal with a primer detonation and have set up some extra PPE to mitigate that risk

 

The hold down die is not the cause of the detonation.

 

What causes it is a misaligned primer which has hung up on the "crimp" ridge and you are compressing the anvil lighting it off. The hold down die, I've used both of the ones mentioned here and love the Level 10, just makes the primer depth a bit more consistent by preventing the brass from moving up as the primer is inserted.

 

If you've never had a kaboom, it is impressive. On a Dillon press the primer magazine will prevent any sideways issues, but the follower rod and inner tube will be destroyed. Punches holes in ceiling above it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/19/2021 at 7:15 PM, mkmckinley said:

The $17 Everglades Ammo hold down die fixed it for me, perfectly primed cases every time.

 

Just got mine working today.  Priming is more consistent.

BUT, there is the Hole Diameter Problem.  They say:   

"The die measures .579" diameter and will be a light press fit on Dillon Super 1050 Toolheads. The die will need to be modified to work in the RL 1050. The OD must be turned down to fit the RL 1050."  

 

Well, MY Super 1050 has the small hole and I had to impose on my gunsmith to turn the die body down to .561" to fit.

 

Seems like Everglades could make both diameters and save the customer the fuss.  Even if it added a dollar or two for them to make and stock two sizes.  I understand the 1100 has the small hole and if so, combined with the installed base of RL 1050s, and Supers like mine that did not read the catalog, it would be a great convenience. 

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Just last week received and installed my Level 10 Innovations spring loaded Primer Hold Down die and have loaded 800 rds thus far with zero issues. I did email Level 10 to ask if they would build me a primer hold down die but with threads so that I can use it as a spring loaded swage hold down die.  They told me they would discuss this with their engineer to see if they can make such a die. They indicated that they had some development time in a similar design and would get back with me….

 

If they are able to make and provide this spring loaded swage hold down die I will post pictures here…I know somw here will ask “Why Mark”? ……My thought is because I load range pick up brass of various head-stamps having a spring loaded swage and primer hold down dies might allow me to get more consistent swage results and more consistent primer seating depth….Once I go with an auto-drive my goal will be to have all of these issues worked out….Mark

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

maybe you need to check the position of your tab that holds the case in station 2- it should just touch the case to prevent it from moving out of the shell plate and it also positions the case to seat the primer easily

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I too use the Everglades hold down die on my RL1100, and find my primer seating depths are very consistent!

 

One item that made setting up the Everglades die very easy was the AmmoBrass Swage Setter: 

 

https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/ammobrass-swage-setter?fbclid=IwAR2zrQADa9pS9d4hmXTT1jC6GZZr3988ny4tAZCLuLdFw_6fDXg-9OnG3vg 

 

Of course it's perfect for setting up the swage system also!  :)

 

Highly recommended!

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