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How To Easily Empty Primers On Dillon RL1050?


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I wish someone would come up with a gizmo to easily empty primers on the Dillon RL1050. Taking the whole primer chute assembly apart to empty unused primers is a real pain. Anyone with a better idea?

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Just leave the primers and powder in the press.

 

I used to be obsessive about emptying it out. Now? After routinely letting it sit in a very humid garage for 3+ months, then finding zero difference in how my ammo runs through a chrono? It sits perpetually full and ready.

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When you're almost out of brass, instead of filling 100 at a time do 50 or less.  I you have 10 left when the brass is all loaded, it only takes a minute to manually cycle them out. I tend to load 10k or more at a time, which last me for a while, so I don't leave primers or powder in my machines.

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5 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Just leave the primers and powder in the press.

 

I used to be obsessive about emptying it out. Now? After routinely letting it sit in a very humid garage for 3+ months, then finding zero difference in how my ammo runs through a chrono? It sits perpetually full and ready.

What about if you're going from large pistol to large rifle?  Gotta dump the primers out some time.

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5 hours ago, 67isb said:

I don't empty primers unless I have to.   I use Immortobot primer cup.  It uses magnets to hold a cup under your primer stack.  Works for RL1050/1100, Super1050.

Catches alot of primers and keeps them from going all over the place.

 

https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=426

 

Ive had a 1050 for 5 years with a mark 7 and this is the first Ive heard about a primer drian hole. 😕 

 

When I start getting low on projectiles or brass I just dont put as many primers in. Its not that hard. 

 

After the primer alarm goes I have 3 primers left. 

 

 

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I use a piece of 0.010" brass shim stock, loosen the bolts, slide the shim between the filler and primer slide, bend the excess on both ends of the shim up, have a tray ( I use a Speer/Sierra bullet box) to catch the primers ready, remove the bolts and lift into the tray/box.

 

Been doing it this way for 13 years.

Edited by RePete
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Didn't know there was a "drain hole", but just looked and yep, there is a hole under the primer handling mechanism.  Question:  How do you open the hole to allow the primers to drain out?

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Thanks for the link but my RL 1050 doesn't look like that and doesn't have a "half moon".  There's just an adjustable round knob that screws in or out to adjust how far back the primer slide is allowed to come.  I don't think it will allow primers to fall even if I loosen it fairly far out.

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On 5/23/2021 at 8:37 AM, RePete said:

I use a piece of 0.010" brass shim stock, loosen the bolts, slide the shim between the filler and primer slide, bend the excess on both ends of the shim up, have a tray ( I use a Speer/Sierra bullet box) to catch the primers ready, remove the bolts and lift into the tray/box.

 

Been doing it this way for 13 years.

Easy peasy!! I have a similar thing. Piece of thing plastic bent at right angle. With beveled edge on the side that goes under the primer tube! Loosen bolts, slide beveled end of 1"flat plastic between primer tube block and slide! Hold in place while you remove bolts. Take off tube while holding right angle of plastic against tube block. Place tube on side or release primers into a cup or tray. JD

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  • 2 weeks later...


I copy and pasted this from a post I made on another forum. I’m not sure why it’s highlighted in green. Sorry about that! 

 

 

 

WARNING: Anything I’m posting below is dangerous. It’s only for informational purposes. Doing anything replicating this could put life, limb, and your equipment in danger.

I’ve been a happy S1050 owner for years. I really love loading on the machine. That being said....In my opinion, it has one problem that, when it rears it’s ugly head, it eventually turns into a mess. That problem is the priming system. 

Countless times I hear that sound of a primer hitting the bench, or look in my finished cartridge bin and see powder in it or I see a nice trail of powder going from the powder drop station to the final station. 

It’s very frustrating. Usually the fix is to take the priming system off, brush or vacuum all the powder off the shell plate / base, and wipe everything down with a patch and q tip with alcohol and reassemble. 

It seems like it never fails that the primer tube is either full, or nearly full. All 1050 owners know happens when you remove the priming assembly with primers in the tube. Primers everywhere! They go in every crevasse of the machine, on the bench and on the floor. There’s no way to empty or stop the primer system that is practical. 

I came up with a simple fix for my machine. 

I bought a few of these from Fastenal ( they’re local for me).

2C173B25-E8E0-4AE2-BB07-2DA6A3EC7A86_jpe-1269232.JPG

They are 8-32x5/16 nylon tipped screws. 

I then drilled and tapped this hole in my primer system. I drilled the next size larger hole in the primer feed tube.

127DC5FF-29FF-4D00-BB15-C4B1D3878349_jpe-1269234.JPG

Now when I have a priming problem I barely hand tighten the nylon tipped screw, remove the priming system and do the cleaning routine. 

When I take the system off, it only drops 7 primers. That’s a lot better than 70! 

If I’d do it over again, I’d drill the hole lower on that surface. Maybe I could have got it down to 5 or 6 primers. 

Use for your own information fellow 1050 owners!

icon_smile_wink.gif 

Links where to get the screws: 
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-tip-set-screws 

https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/set-screws/socket-set-screws/600049?categoryId=600049&level=3&query=Nylon%2Btip&productFamilyId=25816

I have no affiliation with either McMaster Carr or Fastenal. I just went with a Fastenal because a distributor is just up the road from me. 

You’re on your own for a tap and drill bit. I figure as handloaders you probably have basic tools. 

Edited by Henny
Tried to fix my copy and paste.
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That seems like a lot of work to solve something that is pretty simple. See pictures below. Also!!! 99% of primer problems on my 1050 were solved with the purchase of a Pal Filler!! If all of the primers are right side up!! most problems will be solved.

Below pictures show a easy way to take off the primer tube. Just loosen bolts and slide thin right angle plastic shim between primer slide and primer tube block. Then hold the shim in place while taking out bolts and lifting primer tube off while shim holds primers in place. You don't loose any primers from tube!! You can even tape the shim in place and reinstall on press if you wish. I usually drop all of the primers in a tray and refill the tube.  Just My .02   JD

 

P1010522.JPG

P1010523.JPG

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On 6/7/2021 at 8:52 AM, JDIllon said:

That seems like a lot of work to solve something that is pretty simple. See pictures below. Also!!! 99% of primer problems on my 1050 were solved with the purchase of a Pal Filler!! If all of the primers are right side up!! most problems will be solved.

Below pictures show a easy way to take off the primer tube. Just loosen bolts and slide thin right angle plastic shim between primer slide and primer tube block. Then hold the shim in place while taking out bolts and lifting primer tube off while shim holds primers in place. You don't loose any primers from tube!! You can even tape the shim in place and reinstall on press if you wish. I usually drop all of the primers in a tray and refill the tube.  Just My .02   JD

 

P1010522.JPG

P1010523.JPG


Yes, that’s simpler, alright!  Sometimes I overthink things. Although my modification works pretty good!

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I’ve been following this thread with some amusement, b/c it’s never been an issue for me. I got my S1050 to load ammo. I tend to load significant quantities at a time. I just load until I run out of primers. If I’m doing load development, I just leave them until I come back for round two or round three of that process. I guess I don’t understand the reasons to need to empty the tube. Help me, please! 
I’m not trying to be obtuse or Polly Anna. It’s a real question.

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I can see how you can see this thread as a waist of your time.. if I had a 1050 that ran that well and I was as good at foreseeing problems in advance as you are I wouldn’t bother reading this post either. 
Unfortunately some of us need the help of others! Hence this post! 
Does that explain without being obtuse or Polly Anna?  Thanks for your help with this matter.  JD 

 

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49 minutes ago, tkheard said:

I’ve been following this thread with some amusement, b/c it’s never been an issue for me. I got my S1050 to load ammo. I tend to load significant quantities at a time. I just load until I run out of primers. If I’m doing load development, I just leave them until I come back for round two or round three of that process. I guess I don’t understand the reasons to need to empty the tube. Help me, please! 
I’m not trying to be obtuse or Polly Anna. It’s a real question.

 

When you say "significant quantities" what does that mean exactly?

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