JD45 Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 I had one .45 round with a Winchester primer snap on me twice in a new Springfield 1911. Almost no dent. I got to looking at the rounds that fired and the dent was so pitiful it was hard to see( don't know how they fired. All I changed in this stock 1911 was I out in an ISMI 19lb. mainspring. I used that weight in my Kimber for 40,000rds. I've never seen a 1911 need a 23pounder. What else could be wrong? The pin moves freely and protrudes like other guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Watson Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Titanium firing pin in SA is the usual suspect. Go steel. Note that SA firing pin is an odd diameter, Ed Brown makes the size in steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 Really? In a factory gun? It just looks like stainless steel. But if it is, I still don't see how there's almost no dent in the primer. It looks like i"m using an 8 pound mainspring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 Maybe I should try the pin from my other SA 1911, It's a full size range officer with the same mainspring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Could be the ISMI spring is not the advertised weight. Try a Wolf spring or factory spring and see if that solves the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Postal Bob Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 (edited) 15 hours ago, JD45 said: Really? In a factory gun? It just looks like stainless steel. But if it is, I still don't see how there's almost no dent in the primer. It looks like i"m using an 8 pound mainspring. If the spring was that light, you'd feel a significant decrease in the pull weight of the trigger. Remember, hammer spring pressure, pushing on the sear spring, adds significant pressure on the trigger pull weight. I once had the stock hammer spring in a Kimber(23lbs) eventually wear out where it had less pressure than my lightest hammer spring on hand(15lbs). I knew something was wrong when my trigger was almost like a hair trigger with about 1 1/2 lb pull weight, compared to about 4.5-5lb. Start with substituting the firing pin like you said. Also make sure the firing pin channel is free of oil and carbon buildup. And make sure the firing pin hole doesn't have any deformations. Edited March 31, 2021 by Postal Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 Thanks. I also wondered if the spring weight was mislabeled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmyster Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) You said it's a new gun, so I'm going to speculate a little further than the ignition system. I've had titanium firing pin guns and they ran fine, but you might want to make sure the firing pin return spring isn't also super hard. How's the alignment of the firing pin hole to the primer? I had a 9mm striker gun (not a 1911) get light strikes because pin was hitting towards the edge of the primer. Hard to imagine on a large primer, but I have a friend who had the same problem with a 45 Ruger 1911. Ruger put a new upper on the gun to solve the issue. Are you sure the gun is going into battery properly? That the brass is sitting properly against the breechface? Edited April 1, 2021 by johnmyster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 It's going into battery properly. Primer dent is dead center. I found some cases fired with the stock 23lb. mainspring. While it was a more full FP dent, it was still weaker and more shallow than any I've seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 The easy answer...take it to a competent gunsmith. Otherwise, many questions. Does your gun have the ILS (Integral Locking System) mainspring housing? Replace that with a standard housing and parts. Is it chambered too deep? Is the firing pin bent? What size gauge pin will go through the breech face? Does the firing pin match that size? What size gauge pin will fit in the firing pin large bore in the slide? Is the firing pin dragging in the bore? Have you made sure the bore in the slide is cleaned out? What length is your firing pin overall? Does the firing pin stop center the firing pin in its bore? What is the protrusion of the firing pin from the stop? At rest does the hammer push the firing pin in and sit on the firing pin stop or is there slack that allows the hammer to feel loose? Is the hammer strut pin loose in the hammer where it can drag on the frame (this one drove me crazy with an STI)? Is the bore in the mainspring housing clean? Does it allow the plunger to move freely or is it dragging? Is the bottom housing pin retainer in place? Sorry for writing a book, but these answers should help solve your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigal Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 check that over travel screw adjusted properly and hammer don't hit the sear nose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 That's the first thing Springfield said to check, the over travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yigal Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 and check that hammer don't hit ejector notch and fully hit the firing pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 I just now see that this factory trigger has no overtravel screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfs Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 (edited) You may also want to check how the primer is properly seated if you are using handloads. An improperly-seated primer can give you a false analysis of a light primer strike. You will encounter a misfire, and when you try to ignite the primer the second time around, it will usually ignite since the primer has moved (and most likely seated) in the primer pocket. You also might want to check the mainspring cap or the mainspring tunnel. Check for binding/drag. The heavier weight mainspring may have masked the issue of mainspring cap drag on the tunnel. Edited July 10, 2021 by tfs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 Just got the gun back from Springfield. They did nothing. Said no misfires and sent it back. I explained in writing and on the phone the issue. They said to leave the 19lb. mainspring in and send it. What a waste of time. Now I know I'm not sending my Kimber Montana in for the same issue. I've been warned about Kimber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Watson Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 Old song, "You're not listening to what I say." A steel firing pin is your best bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bwenning Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 I had a similar issue in a smith and wesson 1911, turned out that the firing pin block was slowing down the firing pin enough to only light strike the primer. The S&W version of 80 series parts has lever coming off the grip safety that moves the firing pin block, having a high grip was not fully depressing the grip safety. I took the parts out of the gun and pinned the grip safety. Problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 9 hours ago, JD45 said: Just got the gun back from Springfield. They did nothing. Said no misfires and sent it back. I explained in writing and on the phone the issue. They said to leave the 19lb. mainspring in and send it. What a waste of time. Now I know I'm not sending my Kimber Montana in for the same issue. I've been warned about Kimber. so your kimber has the exact same issue? if two guns start exhibiting the same exact issue, id be looking at the ammo, not the guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Watson Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 Kimber Montana is a bolt action rifle. Has to be something different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 Yes it’s a .243 Win. Using factory ammo. The problem is well known. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 4 minutes ago, Jim Watson said: Kimber Montana is a bolt action rifle. Has to be something different. maybe, not seating primers will result in no fires in a rifle or pistol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayfk05 Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 Have you tried factory ammunition? I don't see you answer the question about properly seated primers, that would be the first thing to check. Definitely when they send it back and say it functions fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Watson Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 (edited) Hey, angle, where are you at? I am in area code 256 and have not heard of topgunsammo. Although a 25 yard range is advertised, there is no address given to get to it. You ain't speaking Alabama or even very good English, neither. ETA. The fraud has been deleted but I'll leave this up so everybody will be wary. Edited August 3, 2021 by Jim Watson Offending post removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 ^ nice spam! bet you dont last long around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now