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Red dot brightness?


adrone
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Can you guys tell me how bright you run your dot and why? 
Ive been told bright as possible before starburst in any setting by one gm and Ive also been told low as possible in any setting by another.

Outdoor ive been running at brightest or 2nd brightest setting on a romeo3 xl which gives me about the same perceived brightness as halfway up the settings at indoor.

Is this a “to each his own” thing or is there a reason why one way is better than another?

What do you choose and why? 
Thanks

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I run my Romeo 3max on the dimmest setting possible, even when  shooting into the sun. That way I transpose it and still see through into the A zone. The eyes can differentiate a faint red flow just as much asa bright red dot. Give a try and see what you think

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Hello, I turn the dot full on a close target hoser stage. If the stage has long tight shots then I turn it down so I can actually look through it. It will also depend on the bays you are shooting in. If it is in the shade, turn the dot down. If you have a low sun you will have to turn it up. It also depends on the surface on the bays. Grass you will turn it down and a desert you will need to turn it up. No magic setting for all since are eyes are react different to light. Thanks, Eric

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I turn it up until I start to see some flare around the dot, then I turn it down 1 click at make ready for each stage. I want it bright enough that I can see it but dim enough that it doesn’t draw my eyes to it so I can stay focused on the target and not changing my attention back and forth from the dot to the target and back.

Edited by Silverscooby27
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19 hours ago, Silverscooby27 said:

I turn it up until I start to see some flare around the dot, then I turn it down 1 click at make ready for each stage. I want it bright enough that I can see it but dim enough that it doesn’t draw my eyes to it so I can stay focused on the target and not changing my attention back and forth from the dot to the target and back.

 

I do the same for most stages.  If there are difficult shots, I'll turn it down a couple of clicks for that stage so it isn't overpowering on something like a 15 yard head box.  Most of the time, I just want to see a flash of red where I'm looking on the target.

 

To be more succinct, it depends on the level of confirmation required for the most difficult target on a stage.

Edited by clw42
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During stages with both old style C-mores and DPP I run full on all the time. I will turn them down sometimes when I am zeroing them or just working on accuracy on small targets, but that kind of shooting is never the majority of a stage so for that I want it blinding bright so its as easy so see no matter how fast it is moving or what the light is.

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My C-More Railway has 10 adjustment positions.  I normally us #7 unless it's a very bright day in the desert.  Then I go with the 10th spot.  I also have a 12 MOA dot that lets me pick it up fast for Steel Challenge Matches.  You are not going for 1 MOA, just MOT (Minute of target).

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I use to run my C-mores at full brightness.   After my 4 year hiatus from shooting I have changed that.  While shooting on a bench rest at 25 yards with the dot turned down the holes were tied together perfectly 5 shot group all touching.  I turned the dot up full bloom like I use to shoot and the hits went high left and spread out.   I know sounds like science fiction but I was able to repeat this test several times consistently.   Starting over again having some issues finding the elusive dot and being much slower than the good old days I found having the dot turned up bright was causing me to focus more on the dot than the target.  Now I'm one of those annoying shooter at make ready that take a few extra seconds to adjust the dot brightness to enough to easily see but not attention grabbing. 

 

I just put a Romeo 1 on a CZ SP01 Shadow, now that thing is so bright it hurts my eyes, so yes turn it way down again to plainly visible. 

 

 

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Hello, one thing that I did not mention is the MOS of the dot I am using. The 2-4 MOA dot size gets turned up to almost full when I am outside. The 6-8MOA dots get turned up and down depending on the stage. Also some dots are brighter than others and clearer also. Thanks, Eric

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  • 2 weeks later...

Something new I learned.   The 6 moa dot in my new Romeo 1 is super bright compared to my 5 C-more sights, 4 being 8 moa and one being 6 moa.  The size of the Romeo 1 6 MOA is about the same as the C-more 8 MOA.   With the sight at full brightness I aim it at a 60 watt equivalent LED bulb about 2 feet away the 6 moa C-more is so pale I have to hunt for it, the 8 MOA C-more is pretty washed out but easily visible, the Romeo 1 has to be turned down it is too bright.   Sunday I totally tanked a stage with the 6  moa, facing the morning sun the dot was so washed out I had a hard time finding it.    If it was the off season I would have switched mounts and gone to a Romeo 1 but being I want to shoot and I know C-more's last for ever, almost,  I just ordered an 8-moa C-more to replace the 6-moa.  Since the 6 moa is more than a decade old I decided to get a new one, and send the old one in to be rebuilt and keep it for a spare.  You mileage may very, but this is my story.   

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Your brightness setting depends a lot on the size of your dot.  On white steel in sunlight my 2 MOA dots get turned up the it starbursts.  6 MOA on a Railway needs to be turned up to the next to last click to be useable.  The 12 MOA only needs 5 clicks.  All of my 6 MOA RTS2s need max.  My SRO 5 MOA dots can run on auto unless the sun is really bad on white steel.  All of my FF3 8 MOAs can run on auto with newish batteries.  Both of my DPP 2.5 MOA bloom when they are bright enough.

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