Tanfo Tuning 2: The Retune

[Polpewpew]

Sorry about the title, couldn't help myself ... anyways, I SHOT MY FIRST MATCH TODAY! Not a single problem with my Stock II (strange since yesterday practicing i had 2 faliure to ignite moments...) so obviously I AM EMBOLDENED. 

 

I am thinking about continuing with the tuning, just because it is so much fun tbh I am not really at a shooting level where I "need" it. I'm planing on polishing the f*#k out of it, putting in the titan hammer, changing the two piece sear lever by the Xtreme one piece sear lever, and finally putting in the BOLO interruptor.

 

My questions are:

 

1- Will the Xtreme sear lever fit in the normal sear cage? I just think it's silly to buy a 50€ cage if i can avoid it.

 

2- Am I out of my depth on the BOLO? This will be my second round of tuning and the description on the website makes the bolo install sound quite daunting but at the same time I loved doing the first round of tinkering and although it was not a cakewalk, it was all very logical and extremely rewarding to me... Will i hate myself for trying to do the bolo install so soon in my "career"?

 

3- NOT ASKING (I will do my reading of old posts, don't worry) BUT if anyone wants to drop advice/tips/tricks about all this it is more than welcome!

 

Thank you all so much!!! 

[Polymer]

Xtreme sear will fit normal sear cage. All sear cages will be the same except coating/polish. No need to get new one.

 

Bolo fitting varies drastically among guns since tolerances and build quality vary so drastically on tanfo guns. Some guns don't even need fitting for bolo to work. The patriot defense r5 and r7 are very good also as alternatives.

[N7VY]

I bought both the r5 and r7 disconnectors. The r5 dropped right in but the r7 needed some fitting. I just used the r5 but someday I’ll fit the r7.

[HesedTech]

Did you follow Memphis Mechanics videos? If not go back and follow them for your tune.
 

As far as the Bolo goes, in my Stock 2s the fitting required a small amount of material taken away to function perfectly. However, not so with my Limited Pro. The R5 dropped right into the Limited Pro with zero modifications, but I have no idea if the same will happen in a Stock 2. 
 

If you intend to use the R5 or Bolo be sure to match it with both the Extreme Sear and Titan hammer. You will have to trim either the sear (I recommend this) or the safety lobe to get the safety to engage properly. 

Edited March 28, 2021 by HesedTech

[mrd]

If ignition is borderline and you don't have the Titan hammer or Bolo interrupter already (nor the xtreme one piece sear), then you might want to take the extra hassle with fitting the bolo for a Unica hammer instead of the Titan.

 

I have fitted one Bolo for the Titan and I recently fitted a Bolo for the Unica in my Stock 2. The Unica setup hits the primers harder. The inside arc of the Bolo needed more work with the Unica hammer (I have the v2 trigger bar), otherwise it was the same procedure for me. I took a smidge off the tip of the leg for stronger DA ignition on both, never touched the wing on either Bolo.

 

I went with the Xtreme sear, the Unica sear had so little movement it was virtually impossible to get the Firing pin block safety to work with it and SA pull was way lighter than my preference.

 

But the Titan is the safe and proven route, and it does hit the primers harder than the Delta. Pair with the Patriot Defense firing pin spring and their weight of trigger spring that proves most reliable. I run the 15.5 pound spring and did not need to modify it to run fine with the Unica hammer, others have reported coil bind and neede to clip a coil off, but this was not an issue for me.

[Polpewpew]

thank you all for the replies! It seems like I am on the right path then! I will report on the next few days with results (no exact numbers sadly... I don't have a trigger break weight measuring thingy (yet!)

[Polpewpew]

Allrighy, got my parts and everything is great except the bolo is not engageing the DA... I started sanding off the excess in the curve under it as that seems to be the problem (I have read so in other threads). I have not had time to get it to work, but I am a bit worried because it seems like I would have to take out A LOT of bolo for the little wing to engage the trigger bar??? I know it's not a super expensive part but before i sand a whole milimeter i wanted to check with you it's not a different problem.

[Polpewpew]

Allright so, I have been doing what memphis mechanic says in a different thread: Sand a little material off the curve, put gun together, test trigger, Repeat until it all works fine.

I have done this a NUMBER of times........ The bolo is starting to look like my normal interruptor i have taken that much material off... and the DA is still not engaging with it (in particular) when the gun (the slide) is completely assembled and it pushes down on the trigger bar  I might post this on a different new thread to see if I can get some answers.

[HesedTech]

2 hours ago, Polpewpew said:

The bolo is starting to look like my normal interruptor i have taken that much material off.

Did you look at this link?

https://benstoegerproshop.com/tanfoglio-eaa-ifg-optimized-bolo-interrupter-by-patriot-defense/

 

I have taken just a little off #2 to fix that problem. 

 

From the link: (Which BTW Patriot Defense does not post anymore).

Installation Directions-

1. Check single action function, first.  SA should drop and reset with the slide on.  If SA does not break or reset, remove material from angle 1, following the natural curve of the interrupter. This also applies if SA breaks, but does not reset.

2. Check double action function.  If DA does not break remove material from angle 2. CAUTION: This is an extremely sensitive part of the process; if you do not feel comfortable attempting this, please have a qualified gunsmith fit this part or send your firearm to Patriot Defense for proper fitting.

 

[Polymer]

You removed material off the wrong area. Look at the post above this to see instructions and diagram. As stated on instructions, extremely sensitive on how much material is removed. Go super slow, minimal removed and recheck function. Remove like 1 to 2 thousandths and recheck.

 

Also... Back out over travel screw in trigger all the way when fitting parts.

 

Edited April 7, 2021 by Polymer

[Polpewpew]

Lord forgive me i had not understood the area 2 tjing until i just looked at the image again after battling the BOLO these lase few days... Not much i can do now I'm afraid, the bolo looks more like an R5 at this point

 

I will get another one and try again in a few weeks now that i know this can happen, thank you all so much!

 

At the very least I learned a lot and my DA strikes are igniting the ammo every time with the new hammer and firing pin!

[MemphisMechanic]

Everyone turns a few parts into paperweights when learning to work on their guns. It happens.

 

This is why we always grind on the cheaper of two interfacing parts.  

 

I bought two bolos when building my tanfo: the only way to know you have the trigger fully tuned is to go to the bleeding edge, then back it off a little bit on the replacement part.