HI5-O Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 My first attempt at fitting a steel Cheely E2 grip onto my STI 2011 went relatively well. There’s one issue that I couldn’t figure out how to do. I was able to get the grip on the frame and have the grip screw holes line up with the grip bushing holes and the trigger guard lug line up with the trigger guard bushing hole. I can’t figure out how to close up the small gap between the rear of the grip and frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WFargo Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 Mine has exactly the same 'gap'... It seems to be the way it is, unless you're willing to alter 'things' to close that gap. I don't have the skills or tools to do that.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 (edited) This is fairly typical if you did not apply forward rotational pressure when inserting the grip. A tap on the rear of the mag opening with the heel of your hand or a tap with a plastic mallet should close the gap. If the tapping does not do it you have too much metal somewhere that must be removed. In your case it may be that you cannot get the grip high enough on the frame. Edited March 25, 2021 by zzt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 If the grip bushings & screws are installing properly then the grip is aligned to the frame properly. If there is still a gap on the back between the frame and grip then you will need to weld more material to the frame or grip to close the gap. I wouldn't suggest altering the frame/grip holes or bushings to close up the gap by seating the grip deeper onto the frame. That defeats the purpose of locating the grip onto the frame in the proper position. Most of the "Fitting" I have needed to do with steel grips on random 2011 based frames is actually on the front portion of the grip where the trigger guard mates with the under side of the frame. The frame and grip are essentially keyed together where the trigger guard portion of the grip fits into the recess on the under side of the frame. If the frame recess angles are slightly different than the trigger guard angles then it will bind up in that area keeping the grip from fully seating onto the frame. Usually when this area isn't fitted properly the grip won't fully seat onto the frame and the big grip bushings won't install between the frame and the grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 On 3/26/2021 at 10:28 AM, CHA-LEE said: If the grip bushings & screws are installing properly then the grip is aligned to the frame properly. If there is still a gap on the back between the frame and grip then you will need to weld more material to the frame or grip to close the gap. I wouldn't suggest altering the frame/grip holes or bushings to close up the gap by seating the grip deeper onto the frame. That defeats the purpose of locating the grip onto the frame in the proper position. Most of the "Fitting" I have needed to do with steel grips on random 2011 based frames is actually on the front portion of the grip where the trigger guard mates with the under side of the frame. The frame and grip are essentially keyed together where the trigger guard portion of the grip fits into the recess on the under side of the frame. If the frame recess angles are slightly different than the trigger guard angles then it will bind up in that area keeping the grip from fully seating onto the frame. Usually when this area isn't fitted properly the grip won't fully seat onto the frame and the big grip bushings won't install between the frame and the grip. Thanks Cha-Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerjd Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 On 3/26/2021 at 4:28 PM, CHA-LEE said: If the grip bushings & screws are installing properly then the grip is aligned to the frame properly. If there is still a gap on the back between the frame and grip then you will need to weld more material to the frame or grip to close the gap. I wouldn't suggest altering the frame/grip holes or bushings to close up the gap by seating the grip deeper onto the frame. That defeats the purpose of locating the grip onto the frame in the proper position. Most of the "Fitting" I have needed to do with steel grips on random 2011 based frames is actually on the front portion of the grip where the trigger guard mates with the under side of the frame. The frame and grip are essentially keyed together where the trigger guard portion of the grip fits into the recess on the under side of the frame. If the frame recess angles are slightly different than the trigger guard angles then it will bind up in that area keeping the grip from fully seating onto the frame. Usually when this area isn't fitted properly the grip won't fully seat onto the frame and the big grip bushings won't install between the frame and the grip. It took me like an hour one night to figure that out when unfit the cheely grip to my limcat frame. I ended up having to take a little bit off the grip around those edges, and the top of the grip at the radius in front of the big grip bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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