tomjerry1 Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Advice request, what are the tricks for keeping the area around and inside the forcing cone clean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 You can spray it with Dillon Case Lube about every 50 shots. That is kind of messy. You can shoot only jacketed bullets. You can make sure the cylinder lines up properly with the barrel, make sure the forcing cone is the right size and not rough, correct cylinder gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomjerry1 Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 I'm using plated bullets, and am assuming that since this revolver has less than 1k rounds, that lock up should be correct, don't know about cylinder/forcing cone measurement tho. where can I look up the dimensions for a 929? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 The back end of the forcing cone hole should be around .020 to .025 larger than the bullet diameter for any caliber. The lockup can be off on even a new gun, but a new one is more likely to be correct than a well used one. Pull the trigger and hold it back, and there should be a slight amount of side to side cylinder rotation. This is a deliberate design feature to allow the bullet to line up the cylinder to the barrel as it crosses the cylinder gap. If there is no play, it's likely the cylinder is pushed too far counter clockwise by the hand. That will make it shave the bullet on the left side of the forcing cone. This is fixed by using a narrower hand, or filing down the left side of the nose of the original one. You can check the cylinder alignment to the barrel with a range rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I would also ask what you really mean by clean? sparkly clean like new then your in for lots of work and soaking with solvent and little brushes to keep the nooks and crannies around the barrel and frame clean, and your best bet is the case lube warren suggested. I tend to clean the functional areas and maybe the outside of the gun but just accept that the area around the barrel inside the frame will forever be filthy, because if I spend 30 min to get it really clean it will be dirty again after the first moon clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 (edited) Stainless steel gun? They never quite look new in this area if you shoot them. Edited March 1, 2021 by PatJones Spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerMcFadden Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 37 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said: I tend to clean the functional areas and maybe the outside of the gun but just accept that the area around the barrel inside the frame will forever be filthy, because if I spend 30 min to get it really clean it will be dirty again after the first moon clip. I know that, everyone knows that. But I can’t stop cleaning it. I does nothing, yet still I clean. Please send help. 13 hours ago, tomjerry1 said: I'm using plated bullets, and am assuming that since this revolver has less than 1k rounds, that lock up should be correct, don't know about cylinder/forcing cone measurement tho. where can I look up the dimensions for a 929? I’ve found that plated does nothing, in fact it was slightly dirtier relative to my .358 coated bullets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 2 minutes ago, RangerMcFadden said: I know that, everyone knows that. But I can’t stop cleaning it. I does nothing, yet still I clean. Please send help. does digging the chucks out with a pocket knife count as cleaning it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said: does digging the chucks out with a pocket knife count as cleaning it? This makes your pocket knife dull, better to leave the chunks in the gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerMcFadden Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 16 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said: does digging the chucks out with a pocket knife count as cleaning it? I use dental picks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 15 minutes ago, RangerMcFadden said: I use dental picks... but your actually trying to clean it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomjerry1 Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 I am a bit obsessive about chunks, but do believe that I will have to accept a certain amount of dirt. I can clean 2 1911s in the time it took me to clean this revolver, I'll get over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 9 minutes ago, tomjerry1 said: I am a bit obsessive about chunks, but do believe that I will have to accept a certain amount of dirt. I can clean 2 1911s in the time it took me to clean this revolver, I'll get over it. the worst part is the 1911 will appear cleaner after 500 rounds than the revo after 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Lewis Lead Remover https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/lead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx is what I use. It has a tapered plug that a brass screen type patch is over it. You assemble it with the rod in the barrel, pull it tight and rotate. If you have lead built up it will remove it. I've even used the plug with a patch soaked in JB Bore Compounds and smoothed out some rough spots in a forcing cone. Casey also make a Lead Remover Cloth that works pretty good https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022286936?pid=236405. Both work pretty good. With Jacketed Bullets you usually have lead exposed at the base and it can still lead slightly. Plated bullets, unless over crimped so much the plating is pierced, don't lead at all. Neither will JHP/JSP or CMJ bullets. Coated bullets aren't bad either. Unless actually using Lead Bullets with Lube in the grooves or Swaged Bullets you won't really see much leading, it's more likely powder residue, carbon, and that should clean up with most bore cleaners or the Lead Remover Cloth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 These guns are "Clean" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBurgess Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 38 minutes ago, PatJones said: These guns are "Clean" yes, dirty = so much carbon on the face of the cylinder that function starts to suffer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomjerry1 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 yep, those are dirty, mine after 128 rounds and cleaning. I'll have to learn to let it get dirtier before cleaning, that will be hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 1 hour ago, tomjerry1 said: yep, those are dirty, mine after 128 rounds and cleaning. I'll have to learn to let it get dirtier before cleaning, that will be hard. To quote Jerry, "If you get them too clean they get a complex" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 (edited) From Schuemann barrels barrel cleaning pdf: "My Personal Practice has become to never clean the bore of my barrels. I do use a brass rod to scrape the deposits out of the chamber. But, I've learned to leave the bore alone and it very slowly becomes shinier and cleaner all by itself. Years ago I occasionally scrubbed the bore with a brass bore brush. But, doing so always seemed to cause the bore to revert to a dirtier look with more shooting, so I eventually stopped ever putting anything down the bore except bullets..." I don't take it that far but I've seen more guns damaged by cleaning than shooting. My 627 shows some finish wear from periodically scrubbing deposits off of the gun. Edited March 2, 2021 by PatJones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 3 hours ago, PatJones said: These guns are "Clean" The Casey Lead Remover Cloth works very well on my SS Revolvers, cleans up that carbon from the cylinder pretty easily. It can damage bluing though and is not recommended for blued guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdude Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Use lead-free primers. (Easier said than done given finding ANY primers.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Phil Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 I just got some "carbon fouling remover" that works well/ Better than Hoppes #9 but doesn't smell as good. This thread makes me feel better. A new friend came over to shoot SC at my range. We shot for 3 or so weeks a couple times a week. I had a "big" match coming up so I cleaned my 929 and polished it with Flitz. He came over the day before the match and when I went to the shooting box he said, "Oh you got a new gun!" I said, "No same one I have been using". "Can't be" he said, "the other one is blue!!" "Oh, yeah..." Clean don't make 'em fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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