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I was out chronographing some loads and zeroing my 929 this afternoon.  I fired 40 flawless shots. Then, I loaded a new moon to do some training.  The 1st bullet fired, then all I got was click, click, click.  I opened the cylinder and looked at the primers, not a mark on them.  I loaded a new moon and the same thing happened, 1st round fired then nothing but clicks.  I turned the strain screw a half turn in, but nothing changed.  I loaded another moon and ran quickly through the cylinder.  3 rounds fired and 5 didn't, but on the last click, the trigger failed to return forward.  I've tried to push it forward, but it's stuck.  I can open the cylinder, and the trigger will pull back to the trigger stop, but it still wont go forward.  The gun has an Apex hammer and a Miculek spring kit, although I believe I used the factory rebound spring because I didn't like the slow trigger return.  I haven't taken it apart yet, but I'm obviously going to have to.  What do you think I should be looking for?  Thank you, Doug

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I have seen the safety bar catch on the bottom part of the hammer when the trigger tries to reset, preventing the trigger from returning forward.  The safety bar might catch on the frame just a bit below the firing pin hole.  

 

I think both cases are caused by the fit between the ramp on the rebound slide and the rebound pad on the hammer being "tighter" than factory stock.

 

With the side plate off you might be able to see the situation I'm talking about.  Put the safety bar in place and look at the tip of the safety bar where it fits between the frame and the hammer when the hammer is down.

 

Apex warns that some fitting may be required when installing their hammers.

 

Let us know what you actually find, please.

Edited by Cherokeewind
added info.
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Could be a broken trigger pivot pin. When the trigger or hammer pivot pin breaks, the gun acts weird. Sometimes working, sometimes not.

For the hammer block, its a good idea to radius or chamfer both sides of the top of the flag, front and back. That keeps it from catching on the hammer or frame as it returns upward.

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19 minutes ago, ysrracer said:

My gun doesn't have a flag. Is that a problem?

 

.

Na, it just means you haven't surrendered to the Dark Side, aka Open!🏴‍☠️

 

Agree with Toolguy.

 

Take your grips off, back off the strain screw and remove the mainspring.  Then cycle, all will probably work.  Then take off the side plate.  If it's a broken stud you will see it, remember to use the handle of the hammer, or screw driver, to whack the grip frame to pop the side plate loose.

If you do have a stud broken, might want to try somewhere other than S&W, unless it's still under warranty.  There are several Revolver Smith's who will do it a lot cheaper & faster.  

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For diagnosis only, assemble the revolver without the safety bar, if everything works properly with the bar absent that's a good indication that the bar is binding/hitting the hammer.

 

Don't leave the safety bar out permanently!

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In all my competition revolvers I have removed the flag to eliminate the possibility of it hanging up. In my carry revolvers I have worked on the flag like Toolguy suggested. Myself I see no need for the flag in a competition revolver. 

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Some of the hammer block safety blocks that I have seen need a bit of TLC to remove sharp edges and burrs from part which is obviously stamped, leaving rough edges most of the time.

 

With the Apex hammers, it's sometimes not enough to chamfer the edges of the "flag".  The lower part of the hammer "face" needs to be beveled a bit to provide clearance for the flag to clear when the trigger resets.  I suspect that this is what Apex is referring to when they mention that "some fitting may be required".  

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18 hours ago, Cherokeewind said:

For diagnosis only, assemble the revolver without the safety bar, if everything works properly with the bar absent that's a good indication that the bar is binding/hitting the hammer.

 

Don't leave the safety bar out permanently!

Why not 

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Well, it turns out that the hand spring fell out of the trigger and jammed between the hammer and trigger.  I put a little more tension on the spring and put everything back together.  I'll take it out tomorrow and run some rounds through it.  Thanks to everyone for the input and advice.

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9 hours ago, revoman said:

Why not 

If you drop your revolver on the hammer hard enough to break the hammer pivot, it's the only thing preventing a boom.

 

They do not affect trigger pull as it is gravity pulling them down when you are operating the trigger.

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2 minutes ago, PatJones said:

If you drop your revolver on the hammer hard enough to break the hammer pivot, it's the only thing preventing a boom.

 

They do not affect trigger pull as it is gravity pulling them down when you are operating the trigger.

And if you don't have a hammer on the gun like a lot of us?

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Would this not be the same as people pinning the grip safety on a SS. All my competition revolvers are Carmonized so I do not have any hammer spurs or parts of the hammer that sticks out past the frame. I remove the flag so it will not become an issue during a match. In my carry revolvers I only polish the insides as if I ever have to use it which I hope I never do. I do not want some anti gun lawyer saying that I specifically worked on the trigger to make the revolver more deadly and that I did it with intention. 
One of my revolvers has been that way since 1997 and it has been dropped and no boom 🤯 maybe I am just lucky. 

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Had Jimmy Clark do an action job on my M29, decade ago, and it came back without the Flag.  I didn't realize that was normal process for a competition action job.  Called him and he explained, but also noted it should've been sent back to me. Which he did.

Since I don't ride horses anymore, the stirrup dropping on a hammer was a big reason for carrying 5 in Peacemakers, I really doubt I'd ever have an issue. BUT on my EDC's I keep them in.

I'd like to think it "could" make a difference in a competition gun as I'm yanking the trigger just sooooo faaaaaast.  But alas I'm not Jerry and it probably wouldn't 🤣🤣🤣

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On 2/24/2021 at 8:21 PM, rooster mcbee said:

Well, it turns out that the hand spring fell out of the trigger and jammed between the hammer and trigger.  I put a little more tension on the spring and put everything back together.  I'll take it out tomorrow and run some rounds through it.  Thanks to everyone for the input and advice.

 

Thanks for posting the actual cause of the problem.

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Here's what happened!  I have everything put back together, but I'm bothered by why it dislodged in the first place.  When I re-installed the spring and hooked the long leg over the pin on the hand, the coiled part of the spring sort of twisted or rolled on it's side a little instead of staying straight up and down.

IMG_0342 (1).PNG

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2 hours ago, rooster mcbee said:

Here's what happened!  I have everything put back together, but I'm bothered by why it dislodged in the first place.  When I re-installed the spring and hooked the long leg over the pin on the hand, the coiled part of the spring sort of twisted or rolled on it's side a little instead of staying straight up and down.

IMG_0342 (1).PNG

I am pretty sure that spring does not go there. You should not even be able to see it if installed correctly. Should be inside the trigger. 

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Yes the hand spring is a bit of a pain to install and it goes in that channel in the top of the trigger.  Kind of a balancing act of holding the spring and putting in the hand.  The smaller post on the hand is what one leg of the spring presses against.

Note you can use the base of the mainspring to push on the hand spring, then finish pushing the hand in.

 

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/revolvers-sw/625-2

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