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Tight Kimber Rear Sight. How do I drift it?


sierra77mk
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I have never had a problem drifting any other sight on any other make of a pistol.

This is a Kimber Classic Custom. No firing pin block etc.

Removed 1/16" Allen Set screw (of course) which was loose anyway, but I cannot get this thing to drift.

I have a huge bench vice so it is held solid, & I tried bigger hammers, then I tried to heat it, but no go.

 

And will try overnight soaking with Kroil but are these things known to be a bit*h to move?

 

 

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For stubborn sights I use a block of delrin and BAH.  The delrin is solid and will transfer the impact a lot better than a brass punch or something similar.  Plus it won't mar the sight.  If that doesn't work, I'd find a hydraulic press.

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Just now, ltdmstr said:

For stubborn sights I use a block of delrin and BAH.  The delrin is solid and will transfer the impact a lot better than a brass punch or something similar.  

^^^^^This^^^^^

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I had one Kimber rear sight that I actually had to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot, left to right, almost down to the bottom of the dovetail to relieve enough pressure so the I could get the sight out for replacement with a new rear.......the old sight was no good anyway. 

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Following this thread because I also have a Kimber Custom Classic from 1998 that has a rear sight that won't move.  Trust me, Thor's hammer couldn't budge this thing.  It must have been forged from the MIM hinge pins from hell's gate.

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1 hour ago, Sarge said:

Maybe they put some kind of loctite on them? I wonder if heat would loosen it

A lot of companies do that. This is also the case with me. And it's not because my rank is like yours 😀

heat will help to loosen it.

Edited by yigal
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14 hours ago, Cherokeewind said:

I had one Kimber rear sight that I actually had to use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a slot, left to right, almost down to the bottom of the dovetail to relieve enough pressure so the I could get the sight out for replacement with a new rear.......the old sight was no good anyway. 

I have done that as well.

 

On an otherwise unmolested smith and wesson shield the local gunsmith ran out of hammer and I sent it back to smith, they moved it for no charge. 

 

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And sometimes not...............

 

I carried a Kimber Stainless II on duty, fortunately the sights didn't need adjusting:)

 

Now, no longer on the job, I'm renewing my love affair with S&W revolvers......

Edited by Cherokeewind
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I'm no 'smith but have put on and taken off a few sights for customers and officers as an armorer.  My personal rule is that on any Kimber in for sights, it is ONLY with the understanding that the rear sight will likely be destroyed in the process.  Otherwise, we recommend  priority mail to Novaks or Kimber as best option.  I have seen too many beat up slides and wont' be a guy that does that.  After the usual 24 hours penetrating oil soaking and then oil pressed under the sight via the set screw used as a piston, heat via heavy duty solder gun at screw hole to melt Loc-Tite, the sight pusher (won't work but just so I can say I did ) and them wrapping everything in tape for application of the various punches and hammer...if none of that works, we go to the mill which is at least less work than a Dremel but does the same thing.  Point being, those things are bears.

 

Edited by sheepdog
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This is not moving after penetrating oil overnight and a steel a punch and a 3 pound hammer!

I will decide what I need to do now but it will likely be like sheepdog said, cutting the sight out and replacing.

Internet search finds the same thing about these sights. Installed @ Kimber with a "2 ton press" etc..

What's the point of the set screw I now wonder...

 

 

 

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