Timney Glock Alpha Competition trigger

[rooster]

How are you guys getting 2lb pulls? I have a Timney trigger for my 34/5 and can only get 3 lbs with a long  take up. I actually am not even using it because I can get a better pull (2.5 lbs) with a Johnny glock shoe, with lightened safety plunger spring, a 4lb striker spring, with a Charlie Vanek trigger housing with take up and overtravel adjustment. Also there is a noticeable “hitch”  in the first part of the take up which drove me nuts trying to eliminate it, never did I just got tired of screwing around with so I took it out.

[sx2gl35]

My findings are strictly with the Gen3's; no experience with the Gen 4's and Gen5's.  Sorry, wish I could answer your question with something meaningful / helpful.

[sx2gl35]

15 minutes ago, rooster said:

How are you guys getting 2lb pulls? I have a Timney trigger for my 34/5 and can only get 3 lbs with a long  take up. I actually am not even using it because I can get a better pull (2.5 lbs) with a Johnny glock shoe, with lightened safety plunger spring, a 4lb striker spring, with a Charlie Vanek trigger housing with take up and overtravel adjustment. Also there is a noticeable “hitch”  in the first part of the take up which drove me nuts trying to eliminate it, never did I just got tired of screwing around with so I took it out.

This from the Timney website:

 

"The Alpha trigger is available in two versions. One for Gen 3 and 4 Glocks and another version for the Gen 5 Glocks. The Gen 5 uses a totally different trigger bar, firing pin, firing pin safety, trigger return spring, and trigger mechanism housing. As a result, Gen 5 guns cannot use previous gen trigger parts."

 

I'm sorry for the stupid questions that follow, but did you install a Gen 5 Timney Kit; and does your G34 Gen5 contain any previous Gen parts?

[sx2gl35]

Check out this by Matt Kartozian in an 8-1-21 Guns America Digest article:

 

https://www.gunsamerica.com/digest/timney-alpha-competition-trigger-for-glock-gen-3-4-and-5/

 

According to Matt K. you Gen 5 guys should be pulling 1# - 12ozs. with a minus connector.

[rooster]

All my parts are stock oem. I’m running a minus connector, stock firing pin. Yes it’s a timney kit for a gen 5.

[JBP55]

6 hours ago, sx2gl35 said:

Check out this by Matt Kartozian in an 8-1-21 Guns America Digest article:

 

https://www.gunsamerica.com/digest/timney-alpha-competition-trigger-for-glock-gen-3-4-and-5/

 

According to Matt K. you Gen 5 guys should be pulling 1# - 12ozs. with a minus connector.

 

Not.

[sx2gl35]

On 8/12/2021 at 2:07 PM, sx2gl35 said:

Crickets here, so I installed T-Alpha's in my G35 Gen3's today.  Those come with a "-" connector as you already know.  

 

I was hoping to remove the lightened striker, titanium trigger safety plunger and light spring, and the 4# striker spring and test them as stock guns, but I'm too lazy and I'll do that when my G34 Gen3 three pins arrive and not have to do all that work.  So these are lightly modded with pretty much run-of-the-mill enhancements.  The 4# striker spring works for me and my choice of primer, PF, recoil spring, overall function, etc.  These were not missed at all in the G17 Gen3.

 

Not surprisingly, the exact same trigger function measurements for the G17 Gen3 and T-Alpha as stated in my previous post, were identical to these G35 Gen3's and the T-Alpha...and here are the trigger pull numbers:

 

Average of three - 10 round pulls (near bottom of trigger) in the first G35 Gen3:  1# - 8.7oz.

 

Average of three - 10 round pulls (near bottom of trigger) in the second G35 Gen3:   1# - 5.6oz.

 

No, I'm not going to grind on my beautiful red trigger safety tabs...I like the light / minimal take-up.  (That might have been an issue "in the old days" when you completed the cocking function as part of the trigger pull; but not any more.) 

 

It's great to have some good stuff for a change; it's been a long 20 years for me...Thank you Timney!!!

 

 

Today I returned the G35 Gen3 referred to in the above as "Average of three - 10 round pulls (near bottom of trigger) in the first G35 Gen3:  1# - 8.7oz." to pure box stock condition and measured the results:

 

Average of five - 10 round pulls (near bottom of trigger and in parallel to bore):  1# - 7.5 oz.  (The ES over the five - 10 round pulls was 5.0 oz.)

 

Then I returned the non-stock items (light striker and 4# spring, Ti plunger and light spring) to that gun and remeasured:

 

Same wording as above:  1# - 5.62oz  (ES of 2.2oz)

 

Again: The 4# striker spring works for me and my choice of primer, PF, recoil spring, overall function, etc.  But overall, and from a pure pull weight perspective only, the stock gun with T-Alpha appears to be amazing...which is a totally unscientific and unproven theory advanced by me because I don't have anything else to do with my spare time.  Guess I'll have to go practice now...

[antman747]

I just put a gen 5 JG Timney alpha in. Made a couple minor adjustments and its awesome. Mines right at 3 # Not sure how you guys are getting such light pulls. Best Glock trigger I've used. Had a buddy say "thats how they should come from the factory". I agree..

Edited August 24, 2021 by antman747

[dapribek]

My buddies said the same of my JG Timney. I’m guessing the cost and time involved would be prohibitive. I put them in all 3 of my competition guns and couldn’t be happier!

[sx2gl35]

10 hours ago, antman747 said:

I just put a gen 5 JG Timney alpha in. Made a couple minor adjustments and its awesome. Mines right at 3 # Not sure how you guys are getting such light pulls. Best Glock trigger I've used. Had a buddy say "thats how they should come from the factory". I agree..

I think a lot has to do with Generations.  

 

Gen 5 guns use "different trigger parts than Gen 3-4 guns."  Gen 5's (generally) seem to come in at right around the advertised 3# reported in postings here.  My Gen3's, much to my surprise, are a lot lighter.  Draw what conclusions you may from that...I have no idea what's going on.  

 

And a lot has to do with where you place the Lyman Digital "hook" on the trigger shoe.  If you "hook near the bottom of the trigger and slow steady pull," you might be consistent, but who know's?  If I hook higher, near the lower pin, I get a full 1#+ increase in trigger pull.

 

In the end analysis, who cares what the scale says, if it feels good to your trigger finger...do it!

 

Note: One of my G35 Gen3's suddenly became sluggish to pull and reset.  Cleaned it thoroughly and put it back together...no change.  Went back in and a small part fell out of the gun; recognized it immediately...half a trigger pin (probably original trigger pin).  Replaced it using the remaining half as a slave pin...didn't have to take anything apart...all is well.

[Desk-Jockey]

Ordered one up for my gen 3 17.   What is the consensus on a connector to pair it with?   I have a ghost 3.5 in there now or the stock trigger. 

[sx2gl35]

There is no consensus i.e., no perfect solution for all things.  I think this guy shoots a G17 Gen3 and should give you someplace to start:   Matt Kartozian in an 8-1-21 Guns America Digest article:

 

https://www.gunsamerica.com/digest/timney-alpha-competition-trigger-for-glock-gen-3-4-and-5/

 

Please let us know how you make out...good luck!

[Desk-Jockey]

Thx

[Edwards30]

Is it possible to measure the reset strength of the red trigger return spring?  I find myself in match settings not coming off all the way as I'm so used to the 6lb trigger return spring in my OEM trigger.

I don't have a trigger pull gauge to test myself.

[sx2gl35]

I remember seeing a JG vid where he measured it at 12 oz, did it twice...think it was the red one.  Not sure if that is the reset measurement that you are looking for.  Are you "coming off" OK in practice?  (Sorry, tried to resist but failed.)

 

 

[sx2gl35]

Just so you know, OEM Glocks don't have a trigger return spring; trigger spring...yes.  In fact, your 6# trigger spring helps you pull the trigger, but does not reset the trigger...it actually is pulling the other way.

 

It's the forward motion of the slide that causes the striker tang to contact the "sear" on the trigger bar, pushing the trigger bar forward, which resets the trigger upon return to battery.

 

Please correct any miss-statement...just my idea of what is happening.

 

It might be something else that's causing your slow come-off...maybe the connector is too far out, making the trigger bar drag on the frame?  I had a broken trigger pin that caused the same issue.

 

Good luck, hope you resolve the issue!

[Desk-Jockey]

Installed my timney in my gen 3 last night.   Ghost 3.5 # connector and the red spring.  Breaks at 2.75#.   Take up is unfamiliar but not bad and break is clean.  Reset feels odd.   Can decide if it is good, bad or neutral.  Maybe a little mushy. I doubt I will notice shooting at speed.   On balance, I would say it is one of the better feeling glock platform triggers I have used, including some gun smith jobs and high end aftermarkets that were 2-3x the price.   
 

Install was fairly simple using their fold out instructions although I probably should have looked up a video.   the trigger comes with two springs.   One is for stock connectors (silver) and the other is for aftermarket (red).  That was not specified in my instructions.  
 

looking forward to shooting it in some practice and then a match this weekend.   Assuming all goes well, I will likely put these in all my gamer glocks.  

[vluc]

Installed mine last night in my G34.4.  Install itself was easy.  Red return spring, LWD connector that I had been running previously.  I did not replace any part in the slide, Lightened striker, rounded and lightened spring with plunger.  Manual scale show 2.5-2.75.  Electric showed 1 lb 14 ounce average on 8 pulls.

 

Only issue was reset, would not manually reset to a safe position.  Adjust the set screw in the trigger to virtually every distance it could go with no appreciable difference.  I could push the trigger to reset the trigger safety but it would not go by itself.  Waiting to call tech support.  Hanging up on the frame.  I understand that JG rounds that part of the Timney trigger so it does not catch.  Could possibly get a file and provide relief on the frame itself.  (See Pic)

 

Even with all slide parts replaced to stock, issue still exists.  I'm beating up that poor trigger going in and out of it.

 

I have not taken it to the range yet, wondering if the actual force of the recoil will set it correctly.  Hoping to get this resolved.  A test fire of magnum primers, which my gun previously would not ignite, showed that it successfully ignited with the Timney (main reason I got it) as the feel and break is not noticeably different from my Glock triggers with a JG shoe.

Edited September 2, 2021 by vluc

[Sinister4]

If the "red" is hitting the frame, yes i've put in 6 of these and sometimes you have to SLIGHTLY sand the frame to get it to clear and drop in perfectly, NOTE: if your messing with the pre travel screw you have to be sure the connector is  still on the shelf so there is zero chance it can move downward when gun is cocked, you can in fact adjust it so the drop safely is totally not in play... if you are not 110% sure of what you are doing do NOT mess with the little pretravel screw

[sx2gl35]

Is your connector too far out, pressing the trigger bar into the frame causing it to drag and affecting reset?

 

Have you tried a stock Glock "-" connector?

 

Have you adjusted pretravel so there is appreciable daylight between the frame and red?

[vluc]

Got off the phone with Timney, they state connector the usual suspect in this.  Put in three different glock oem connectors, same issue.  I'll continue to play with it.

[vluc]

47 minutes ago, Sinister4 said:

If the "red" is hitting the frame, yes i've put in 6 of these and sometimes you have to SLIGHTLY sand the frame to get it to clear and drop in perfectly, NOTE: if your messing with the pre travel screw you have to be sure the connector is  still on the shelf so there is zero chance it can move downward when gun is cocked, you can in fact adjust it so the drop safely is totally not in play... if you are not 110% sure of what you are doing do NOT mess with the little pretravel screw

 

Thanks.  This was like this from the first install.

[tt350z]

2 hours ago, vluc said:

 

 

Only issue was reset, would not manually reset to a safe position.  Adjust the set screw in the trigger to virtually every distance it could go with no appreciable difference.  I could push the trigger to reset the trigger safety but it would not go by itself.  Waiting to call tech support.  Hanging up on the frame.  I understand that JG rounds that part of the Timney trigger so it does not catch.  Could possibly get a file and provide relief on the frame itself.  (See Pic)

 

 Not sure if you’ve read all the replies, but have you tried this?

 

If you feel there’s any sort of drag, binding or sticking, you may need to tune the connector if it is bent outwards a little to much pushing the trigger bar against the frame. You can check this by just taking the slide off, give the trigger a few pulls/reset and note and drag. If the slightly push the connector tab inward away from the frame and pull the trigger, you should feel no drag. If you push inward to hard, the bar will jump the connector. If you push it outwards towards the frame, you’ll feel the connector pushing the trigger bar against the frame which could cause your sticky reset.

 

I initially had occasional sticky reset, but after adjusting the connector, i have zero. This is with the lighter silver trigger spring as well.

Edited September 2, 2021 by tt350z

[vluc]

My thanks to all of you who have replied.  I simply could not get it to work in the gun I was putting it in.  So, uninstalled everything, got my secondary CO pistol, another G34.4, re-installed everything in it and it works flawlessly, all safety's work, pull is still the 2.5/2.75 and life is good.  Must be tolerances....

[sx2gl35]

 

Take your slide off.

 

Pull / release the trigger, observing the movement of the trigger bar in contact with the connector.

 

As TT350 has said (many times), connector too far in = no bang; too far out = drag on frame, no / sluggish reset.

 

I like mine so the connector (stock Glock "-") moves slightly inward,  indicating to me that there is positive contact at the connector / trigger bar interface.  At the same time, the trigger bar is just about to make contact with the forward frame lug and more clearance at the rear frame lug.  It's a lot of screwing around, but my guns reset perfectly.  Grease that interface.

 

I don't worry at all about pre-travel...mine are as received from Timney, no adjustment needed.  To be safe at our level of expertise, you have to have sufficient daylight between the frame and red for all safeties to function.  Pre-travel is a non-issue with this trigger...all trigger fingers are instantly stupid as soon as the timer buzzer sounds!!!