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Timney Glock Alpha Competition trigger


tt350z

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This showed up on my doorstep tonight. The Timney Glock Alpha competition trigger. Nice of the. To include the small flathead to help with maneuvering the spring leg. Also has the hex to tighten the sear housing to the ejector housing. And a hex to adjust the trigger pretravel. Limited adjustment if you want the trigger safety to engage. 
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First look at the trigger bar out of the package, my opinion, i wished they cleaned up the burr from what I’m guessing is from the stamping process.
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For those that dont know, the sear that sits in the trigger housing holds the firing pin back. This is a departure from the OEM trigger where the first half of the trigger pull is actually “cocking” the firing pin from a “half-cocked” position. With that out of the way, the firing pin block is still functional.
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I tried a variety of connectors. It is so easy changing connectors now. Dont have to deal with the spring so I only have to remove the ejector housing to swap the connector. Takes like 30 second.
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Connectors starting from top to bottom:
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LWD “-”, has a light wall, followed by a very smooth rolling break with no stacking. I’m kinda liking the rolling break, so I’ll be using this.

Unmarked connector, the angle and feel is very similar to the LWD “-” connector. Only difference is that it breaks a little bit later in the pull. I wish I knew the manufacturer, but it is what it is.

Zev “-”, has a decent wall, rolls through a little bit, hits another small wall, break. I dont think I’ll be using this.

Glock “-” feels very similar to the Zev. Dont think I’ll use this either.

Glock “.” Nice solid wall crisp break with no stacking that I can notice. This would be what I would use if I decide to go with a crisp break vs a rolling break.

Glock unmarked, has the most solid wall and crisp break, but I do feel a little stacking before the break. I wouldnt mind using it even though it stacks a little bit.

 

The trigger safety dingus is not completely flat, it has a very slight convex arch so you have a positive engagement of the safety. The safety spring is relatively strong. It will not flop around like the OEM which basically has no pressure. Its probably 3x as strong as the Zev Pro trigger safety. But it is in no way obtrusive. I also like the beveled edge on the trigger shoe. I wear medium sized gloves and I feel that i push the pistol with a wide flat trigger like the Zev Pro trigger shoe.

 

To sum it up, this trigger feels amazing. Despite the trigger bar looking a little rough, once installed it is very smooth. I honestly dont feel any grittiness. I’m not gonna attempt to polish it because it is coated with NP3, and at this point it’s just cosmetic.

Also it’s easy to dry fire because the trigger always goes to the forward position, although the firing pin will not drop because it is in the forward position until you rack the slide so the sear can catch it.

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I don’t see a drop safety tab that rest’s on the trigger housing shelf. Is there still a drop safety? By the way nice write up and pics. I think I see it now, it’s just on one side.

Edited by rooster
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Can the sear be pushed down independent of the trigger bar moving back?  That's a big part of the drop safety of the oem bar since the housing prevents the bar from moving down when it's in the forward position.  

 

Do you have an armorer's back plate so you can try pushing it down when it's cocked?

Edited by Michael303
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@cjmill87 unfortunately, I dont own or know anybody with a trigger scale at the moment.

 

@rooster The only aftermarket trigger I have is the Zev Pro, and from my measurement, the trigger safety shoe holes are at least 1 mm close than than the Zev.

 

@Michael303I tested with a snap cap. We all know the hollow sound we get when the firing pin drops on the snap cap. I tripped the sear with a small flathead, the trigger bar intercepts the firing pin (also assuming the firing pinblock does as well since the trigger bar never went backwards, but i cant see it without having a cutaway slide). No hollow sound of the pin hitting the snap cap, just a sharper click sound.

 

You can see the firing pin caught by the trigger bar.

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Edited by tt350z
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5 hours ago, rooster said:

Do you think you could add a different trigger shoe. I just purchased a TYR shoe and really like the shape and feel. Do you think I could put on the Timney bar?


Sorry, I originally read your question wrong, I’m just waking up.

 

But no, while a different trigger shoe would fit, it’s not machined for the return spring. The left side of the trigger shoe is basically machined away until it’s just a post for the return spring to sit on. Now if your able to machine that area, then yea, it’d work.

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This video has a great breakdown of how the trigger works and he even used an armorer's plate to get some good shots of the sear in action.  I feel more reassured about the safety now.  Johnny spoke very highly of it and the only bad thing was it didn't reset occasionally.  I feel a little bad for him because it's probably a better trigger for almost half the price.  I hope he's successful in tuning these triggers.

 

 

Edited by Michael303
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Right now I have the Glock standard connector with no marking, OEM firing pin spring with the Timney trigger. I had the Zev with the LWD - connector, Zev #2 (realistically the #4) firing pin spring and #6 trigger spring. So just keep the different setup in mind.

 

Initial take up to the wall:

The Timney take up requires more force, as I mentioned partially due to the heavier trigger safety spring. Nothing substantial, just a few oz’s heavier. Now the Zev with the factory trigger spring would probably feel the same or very close.

 

Wall to break:

As we know the connector plays a huge role at this part of the pull. With all the same parts, the Timney just does everything better. For me to get a similar weight break of the standard connector/firing pin spring, I have to use the reduced power firing pin spring and LWD - connector. So it’s a longer pull but isn't as smooth as you can still feel another hitch in smoothness before the break.
 

Reset:

The Timney does have a different feeling reset. I think this is mainly due to the trigger return spring. The Timney spring operates torsionally so the first part of the reset, there’s not much pressure actually pushing the trigger forward as there is down because it’s rotating. So the further you release the trigger, it’ll have more return pressure. Whereas in the OEM setup, the firing pin spring is pushing on the trigger bar in a linear motion so its a straight push and its more efficient. That’s the best way I can describe it.

 

IMO, the beauty of the Timney is that you can run full power OEM firing pin spring for striker reliability, you can change connectors for different break characteristics but maintain nearly the same trigger pull weight with any combination. But I dont have a scale to confirm, but they all feel close enough it doesn’t really matter. With the OEM setup, it’s always a compromise and spring weight changes can be felt immediately. Want a crisp break with the standard connector but lightweight? Gotta run a light firing pin/heavy trigger spring and hope it will light off primers and be able to reset the trigger, etc.

Edited by tt350z
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2 minutes ago, Michael303 said:

Have you had any issue with reset like the Johnny Glocks video?


Very occasionally. It only seems to happen if I press to the wall and continue just a little bit but then release the trigger slowly. I can literally give it a small shake and it will go to the full forward position. IMO, I dont see it as an issue because just going to the wall and releasing it doesnt stick. I dont see when I would need to prep the trigger just pass the wall and not break it. It takes way more effort to get it to stick than how it’s used in the real world, especially for a game gun. 
 

I havent used grease or lube on it yet. Just dry firing it dry to get all the surfaces polished. I have noticed the stack is almost gone with the standard unmarked connector. 

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So The trigger pull has definitely gotten smoother with dry firing. I finally lubed it with M-Pro7, break is obviously smoother and lighter and the trigger does not stick at all.
 

Here’s a video of the install on a Glock frame I did just for fun. I used a different technique then Timney’s instructions.

 

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I'm afraid you're gonna cost me some money. I've tried a bunch of different glock triggers and kinda settled in the TTI kit for cost vs performance. I'm really wanting g to try one of the timney triggers!!

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Yea it’s pretty sweet!

 

So I used my fishing scale, the OZ9 with a TLR-1HL, half loaded mag weighs in at 2 lbs 9 ozs. Standing the pistol up vertically on the trigger will break. So I’m betting it’ll easily come in under 2.5 lbs, but very crisp and not mushy at all.

 

I really need to get a trigger pull gauge to try it with all the different combinations.

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2 hours ago, tt350z said:

Yea it’s pretty sweet!

 

So I used my fishing scale, the OZ9 with a TLR-1HL, half loaded mag weighs in at 2 lbs 9 ozs. Standing the pistol up vertically on the trigger will break. So I’m betting it’ll easily come in under 2.5 lbs, but very crisp and not mushy at all.

 

I really need to get a trigger pull gauge to try it with all the different combinations.

After all the issues I’ve had with my zev I’m gonna have to get this trigger. 

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I didn’t get it either. But I think you would add the average of the safety tab pull weight to the average of the (fast pulled weights). But the take up and reset positions looked incredible. I don’t think you could market or sell a aftermarket Glock trigger with a pull weight of 14 ounces. However if he could dial that back to around 3lbs, he’s definitely got something.

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The best I could do with do trigger pull gauge. Polished striker lug face, polished LWD - connector, 5 lbs striker spring. I honestly cant feel a difference between the OEM striker and reduced power striker springs. Need a scale to measure it. 

 

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My attempt at getting some measurements.

 

Timney Glock trigger pull & reset
Zev OZ9
Timney trigger
ZEV skeletonize striker 
LWD - connector
OEM power striker spring

 

Caliper is where it is because I can put the jaw into the slots  and wedge it in the chassis for the most repeatable measurement.

 

Measurements points for pull:
Zeroed at the wall
Measurement at the break
Measurement of over travel
Measurement when connector is reset after racking slide


Measurement point for reset:
Zeroed from trigger full aft until trigger reset

 

 

Edited by tt350z
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For those worrying about the sluggish or sticking reset, don’t. It’s not the trigger causing it, it’s just much more sensitive to any friction since it doesn’t have a strong firing pin spring helping it reset.

If you feel there’s any sort of drag, binding or sticking, you may need to tune the connector. It is bent outwards a little to much pushing the trigger bar against the frame. You can check this by just taking the slide off, give the trigger a feel pulls/reset and note and drag, push the connector tab inward away from the frame and pull trigger, you should feel no drag. If you push to hard, the bar will jump the connector. If you push it outwards towards the frame, you’ll feel the drag for sure.

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