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How long has everyone waited for their RL1100 to come from Dillon?


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10 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

Jejb - I kept my 650 just in case I was not 150% satisfied with my 1100….I am only about 2000 rounds into my 1100 and I am still making small adjustments but I have shot over 800 rounds loaded on my 1100 with zero issues….

 

My 650 will remain in my inventory for those other calibers that I shoot because I already had dedicated tool heads and caliber conversion kits set up for each…..I will use the 1100 primarily for 9mm and .223/5.56….

 

Do not give up on your 1100 because when you get it dialed in you will wish you shot more so you could load more….

Thanks. We're getting along better. I know it's mostly a learning curve and dialing in thing. When I got the 650, it also took some getting used to from an older RCBS progressive I'd been loading with for many years. I only load 9mm with it. I still have my old RCBS for other (very low count) pistol calibers I shoot.

 

I shot up my first 300 rounds out of it yesterday. Loads are fine. 

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8 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:

Its a whole new learning curve, I went from having 2 Dillon 650 machines to a RL1100 and a CP2000 both Ammobot driven. After a few weeks it was all good. You will get the hang of it. The RL1100 is a Rolls Royce compared to 650.

Yeah, I'd read that kind of thing on the forums, and it's a big part of the reason I upgraded. I'm a tool guy, rebuild engines, do all my own maint, even on the diesel pusher. But I have to say I'm not overly impressed by the difference. Yeah, the 1100 frame and camming mechanism are beefier, but probably something that is really only worth it to an almost commercial type operation. I was going to just get the MBF and put it on my great running 650, but the wife was very insistent I get the press also.  I do like having the swagging station though, so it will be worth it in the end. But for most reloaders, it's hard to justify at twice the price, IMO. Not putting the 1100 down here, just sayin'. 

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13 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

Jejb - I kept my 650 just in case I was not 150% satisfied with my 1100….I am only about 2000 rounds into my 1100 and I am still making small adjustments but I have shot over 800 rounds loaded on my 1100 with zero issues….

 

My 650 will remain in my inventory for those other calibers that I shoot because I already had dedicated tool heads and caliber conversion kits set up for each…..I will use the 1100 primarily for 9mm and .223/5.56….

 

Do not give up on your 1100 because when you get it dialed in you will wish you shot more so you could load more….

 

Same here; kept my 650.  I use it to run small batches and I want it around as a backup also.

 

Now that I'm used to my 1100 every time I go back to the 650 it feels like a toy in comparison.

 

There is a definite learning curve; a lot of your 650 experience will help but it has it's unique idiosyncrasies. 

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13 hours ago, jejb said:

Yeah, I'd read that kind of thing on the forums, and it's a big part of the reason I upgraded. I'm a tool guy, rebuild engines, do all my own maint, even on the diesel pusher. But I have to say I'm not overly impressed by the difference. Yeah, the 1100 frame and camming mechanism are beefier, but probably something that is really only worth it to an almost commercial type operation. I was going to just get the MBF and put it on my great running 650, but the wife was very insistent I get the press also.  I do like having the swagging station though, so it will be worth it in the end. But for most reloaders, it's hard to justify at twice the price, IMO. Not putting the 1100 down here, just sayin'. 

Once the Dillon version of the Ammobot is available, pick one up. You will thank me later. The Cp2000 does an excellent job of processing the brass. With all the sensors I have, I can just fill the bowl and walk away, if theres an issue the machine will stop.

Edited by Johnnymazz
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Finally getting the feel of the 1100 and getting it pretty well dialed in. Probably still a little tweaking to do here and there, but at least it's non-stop pulling the handle for me at this point. 

 

I'm usually one to tell beginning reloaders that it's okay to start on a progressive. But I'd have to back that down a little bit now. The 650/750 are fairly simple to understand and run machines. To run the 1100, I really feel like you need to spend time on a less complicated machine first though. 

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2 hours ago, jejb said:

Finally getting the feel of the 1100 and getting it pretty well dialed in. Probably still a little tweaking to do here and there, but at least it's non-stop pulling the handle for me at this point. 

 

I'm usually one to tell beginning reloaders that it's okay to start on a progressive. But I'd have to back that down a little bit now. The 650/750 are fairly simple to understand and run machines. To run the 1100, I really feel like you need to spend time on a less complicated machine first though. 

 

I would think that would help quite a bit. Especially if you are brand new to reloading.

I started on a Lee Classic Turret not knowing anything about reloading.

That made the jump to the 650 fairly straightforward.

Then the 650 knowledge was quite helpful when I got the 1100.

I know people dive in the deep end and are successful but I'm glad I did it the way I did.

 

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Might be a little bit of overkill for my first setup but I think I'm ready to go.---

Final setup - 
 

Dillon RL1100 (Setup in 9MM)

Mr. Bullet Feeder
Armanov Precision Powder Thrower Adjustment Knob

DAA Magnetic Powder Check
RCBS Taper + Seat Die

Borescope Camera with 1080P HD 4.3" LCD Screen
Reloading Innovations - Starlight lighting system (Pending) 
DAA PRIMAFILL and DAA Primer Pickup Tubes
ShootSteel 1" Laser cut reloading wrench 

Starting load -
9mm 
115 Gr Berry's RN FMJ
4.9 Gr Hodgdon CFE Pistol

CCI 500 SPP
Starline 9MM Luger
- Range data pending 

Starting to process new ammunition now. (Small batch ~ 30rds to test)

1m.jpg

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12 hours ago, DirtBag said:

Might be a little bit of overkill for my first setup but I think I'm ready to go.---

Final setup - 
 

Dillon RL1100 (Setup in 9MM)

Mr. Bullet Feeder
Armanov Precision Powder Thrower Adjustment Knob

DAA Magnetic Powder Check
RCBS Taper + Seat Die

Borescope Camera with 1080P HD 4.3" LCD Screen
Reloading Innovations - Starlight lighting system (Pending) 
DAA PRIMAFILL and DAA Primer Pickup Tubes
ShootSteel 1" Laser cut reloading wrench 

Starting load -
9mm 
115 Gr Berry's RN FMJ
4.9 Gr Hodgdon CFE Pistol

CCI 500 SPP
Starline 9MM Luger
- Range data pending 

Starting to process new ammunition now. (Small batch ~ 30rds to test)

1m.jpg

Tell me more about that die wrench. I’ve been looking for an open ended die wrench but can’t bring myself to spend the money on the UniqueTek model. I have the DAA closed die wrench and like it a lot, but also want an open end type. Where’d you get it?

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Cuz - Thanks for asking about this wrench….

 

Dirt - Thanks for the link. With the 15% discount they offered me while looking at this wrench and free shipping I have two in route for $20 and change…..

 

Thanks Guys - looks to be a good quality wrench….

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15 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

Cuz - Thanks for asking about this wrench….

 

Dirt - Thanks for the link. With the 15% discount they offered me while looking at this wrench and free shipping I have two in route for $20 and change…..

 

Thanks Guys - looks to be a good quality wrench….

 

I bought two of them a while back and they seem to be holding up well.

Minor rant: This product is marked improvement over the cheap piece of cr@p that is the Dillon equivalent.

 

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2 hours ago, DirtBag said:

Ready for "Constructive" feedback.

I ordered the Tension reset spring for the MBF already. Still need to further adjust that as well since I'm getting maybe 2/100 rounds upside down.

No range data yet. 
 

 

It looks like you need to adjust the flipper ledge up on your bullet feeder. It’s a little plastic piece that slides in/out. You need to set it so that a bullet that’s right side up just slides over without dropping into the shelf that flips it. If a bullet is upside down, the pointed profile will cause it to drop down and be flipped over. 
 

Also, it’s possible that you aren’t flaring the case enough to get the bullet to stay seated on the case when the dropper drops it on. 
 

These suggestions are from a very inexperienced RL1100 reloader, so if anyone suggests anything that contradicts me you should assume that they are right and I am wrong. 
 

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Thanks - The cases aren't lubed, I see it isn't needed for 9mm but I don't know whats normal. I'm using the DAA powder insert for the pour/flare. I feel like my flare is really good (may be able to back off a bit if the springs on the Dropper help with the double drops. 

Thank you for the MBF tips, I'll be trying them out soon.

Thank you for the feedback - I hope to be able to work out all these things and attribute them right now to the learning inherent curve. 

I'll get some more pics/vids tomorrow

Edited by DirtBag
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3 hours ago, DirtBag said:

The cases aren't lubed, I see it isn't needed for 9mm but I don't know whats normal

 

I do not understand why people keep telling others it’s ok to load pistol ammo without lube. Maybe they have never tried it possibly?  Lube of any kind helps the whole process move a lot smoother and it will be easier on your equipment. Especially your dies. 

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20 minutes ago, DirtBag said:

 

 

How will lube help on the funnel/expansion *sticking (you don't lube the inside of the case)? Is it recommended to do anything on the funnel? 

 

I've never used it but does this lube pick up powder?

I spray my cases with Hornady One Shot before sizing.  There is just enough lube that gets on the funnel to keep it working perfectly.

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23 minutes ago, DirtBag said:

Stupid Q since that's what I'm here for

 

Isn’t that we are all here for? Lubing the outside of the case does not help the funnel sticking. At least it didn't for me. But lining the cases makes the whole process more smooth. The sticking is definitely less notable. There is a couple of ways to prevent the funnel from sticking. Polish the stock Dillon one.  Use the DAA one that came with the bullet feeder. I have not heard of people polishing the DAA funnel but I am sure someone has.  The best solution I have noted is use a die at the swaging station to start or completely expand the case mouth. I use a Redding Die to accomplish this. I believe earlier in the thread someone mentioned they were using a Lyman die to accomplish this. Then you back the funnel off so it's not expanding the mouth of the case. Just activating the powder drop.  

Edited by Boomstick303
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Dirt - If you were to look up the meaning of stupid questions in the dictionary there would be a picture of me.  Seriously - some of the things I have done, not done, or thought were right over 40 years of reloading could fill several stupid drums.  I have learned, and continue to learn so much from this group of guys and so far no one has hesitated to help me or tell me a better way when I was not aware. 
 

As for the use of lube on pistol brass allow me to share with you what these guys taught me and what a HUGE difference it has made in my reloading experiences, especially my shoulder…..

 

Following the recommendations from others here I now will take 10” wide x 18” long plastic tupperware container and dump about 150-200 rounds of clean 9mm brass in it. I give it a good shacking and as a result about 70-85% of the brass end up with the case opening in the upward position. I grab my Hornady One Shot and give it a couple of good shakes and then I lightly spray one pass over the top of the entire container about 10” above the brass. Then I take the tupperware container and mix the brass that is in it with my hand or I will just give it a good 10-15 second shaking allowing the brass to mix as to allow some of the still wet lube to make contact with other cases.  
 

I set that container off to the side and allow it about 10 minutes to air dry and when I get ready to put some brass in my case feeder it is dry to the touch. What a huge difference this makes. Some here use a cardboard box, others a ziplock bag, just any type of container that will allow you to lightly coat your brass keeping in mind all of the brass will not and does not have to be coated inside and out in lube….

 

Guys - What have I left out?  

Edited by Sigarmsp226
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6 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

I do not understand why people keep telling others it’s ok to load pistol ammo without lube. Maybe they have never tried it possibly?  Lube of any kind helps the whole process move a lot smoother and it will be easier on your equipment. Especially your dies. 

Probably because that's what the die makers advertise. From RCBS's website, for example:

Each set features a Carbide Sizing die that requires no case lube to speed up your sizing. 

 

I understand lubing them anyway probably makes pulling them through the press a little easier, but it is "ok" to run them dry. I've loaded many 10's of thousand rounds of pistol ammo and never used lube. 

Edited by jejb
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