Hammer Bob S&W 625

[Drillbit]

I want to bob the hammer on my 625-8. The part of course is MIM. Can I grind the hammer spur as if it were machined steel?  

 

[Lesliet]

   Yep, should work just fine!

 

[SGT_Schultz]

24 minutes ago, Drillbit said:

I want to bob the hammer on my 625-8. The part of course is MIM. Can I grind the hammer spur as if it were machined steel?  

 

 

The hammer is made of steel.  Doesn't matter how the steel was shaped into a hammer.

 

I've bobbed two of them.  One on a 625 PC and one on a 637. 

 

Edited January 9, 2021 by SGT_Schultz

[Drillbit]

Thank you very much.

My plan was to just remove the hammer spur. I have seen some that are almost flush with frame... Thoughts?

[cas]

Yep, cuts and grinds like any other.

 

I have one I wish wasn't cut. I'd offer to trade, but yours won't match my gun. (A 325PD I'm kicking around selling) 

Edited January 9, 2021 by cas

[ltdmstr]

Just be careful with the grinding.  You don't want to put too much heat into the part.  I'd use a cut off wheel on an angle grinder to remove the spur, then belt sander or Dremel to do the final shaping.

[SGT_Schultz]

4 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

Just be careful with the grinding.  You don't want to put too much heat into the part. 

 

There's no way you can put enough heat from grinding and polishing with a dremel to affect the case hardening.  And even if you did, it would happen on a surface that sees no impact loads.

 

People are making a mountain out of a molehill.

Edited January 10, 2021 by SGT_Schultz

[AzShooter]

11 hours ago, Drillbit said:

Thank you very much.

My plan was to just remove the hammer spur. I have seen some that are almost flush with frame... Thoughts?

The lighter you make the hammer the better your trigger will be.  Remember to change your springs.  I use an 11 pound rebound spring.  You may want to start with a 13.  You can also loosen the main spring to get a lighter pull. If you do, use some blue Loctite to keep it in position.

 

There is no problem to grinding off the hammer spur.

[Drillbit]

It sounds easy enough, but I ordered a hammer from Numrich Gun Parts to get started on.  If it turns out ok I'll use it. If not, I still have a hammer.

Edited January 10, 2021 by Drillbit

[Jim Watson]

When you bob your hammer spur, be sure your rims are not burred and your clips are flat.

I like to be able to ease the hammer enough to drop the cylinder stop and roll the cylinder to be sure it turns freely.

[Drillbit]

Got it, thanks.

[MikeBurgess]

On 1/9/2021 at 2:19 PM, Drillbit said:

I want to bob the hammer on my 625-8. The part of course is MIM. Can I grind the hammer spur as if it were machined steel?  

 

Personally I have a 627 and a 625 with cut hammers I did the full "Carmonize" on them they are cut from where they sit flush in the frame at the top in a straight line about 1/8-1/4" behind the hammer stud hole, I have 10s of thousands of rounds on the 627 with no issues and that is the one that is cut the smallest, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

 

[Drillbit]

 

4 hours ago, MikeBurgess said:

Personally I have a 627 and a 625 with cut hammers I did the full "Carmonize" on them they are cut from where they sit flush in the frame at the top in a straight line about 1/8-1/4" behind the hammer stud hole, I have 10s of thousands of rounds on the 627 with no issues and that is the one that is cut the smallest, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

 

That was one of my questions. How low can I / should I go. 

Thanks

[MikeBurgess]

22 hours ago, Drillbit said:

 

That was one of my questions. How low can I / should I go. 

Thanks

here are a couple picks to give you a better idea

[Drillbit]

Wow!  I had no idea you could remove that much material.  Did you have to overcome any problems after?

[scooterj]

[MikeBurgess]

On 1/14/2021 at 6:40 AM, Drillbit said:

Wow!  I had no idea you could remove that much material.  Did you have to overcome any problems after?

sorry missed your question,

 

no problems at all, 

 

[Drillbit]

That's good to know. 

 I was having reservations about the follow up adjustments to  compensate for the much  lighter hammer fall.  

Edited January 28, 2021 by Drillbit

[SGT_Schultz]

11 hours ago, Drillbit said:

That's good to know. 

 I was having reservations about the follow up adjustments to  compensate for the much  lighter hammer fall.  

 

The lighter hammer almost self compensates for its lack of mass with its increased speed of impact.

[Jim Watson]

Hint, don't polish the cut rear face.  It will glint in your eye if the sun is behind you.

[Drillbit]

6 hours ago, Jim Watson said:

Hint, don't polish the cut rear face.  It will glint in your eye if the sun is behind you.

 Something to consider.

 

13 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:

 

The lighter hammer almost self compensates for its lack of mass with its increased speed of impact.

 Good to know.  This may turn out better then I expected. 

[Drillbit]

I finally got the hammer cut today.  This is where  I ended.

It all went well. I hand held it while grinding with air tools, slow but worked.

I scribed a line  at the start you can see in the photo. This was with the hammer at the fired position . The cut I made is in the unfired position..  I must admit, even after the good advice I have gotten here I was still apprehensive of going to far.

Got finished up and tested the trigger pull and can honestly say I can not feel a real difference.

 

Edited March 8, 2021 by Drillbit

[AzShooter]

1 hour ago, Drillbit said:

I finally got the hammer cut today.  This is where  I ended.

It all went well. I hand held it while grinding with air tools, slow but worked.

I scribed a line  at the start you can see in the photo. This was with the hammer at the fired position . The cut I made is in the unfired position..  I must admit, even after the good advice I have gotten here I was still apprehensive of going to far.

Got finished up and tested the trigger pull and can honestly say I can not feel a real difference.

 

You did very little cutting there.  Most of the rear of the hammer can be taken off.  The line about 1/2 way down can be used as an example.  It will help you drop the trigger pull much more.  research CARMONIZED HAMMER.

[ima45dv8]

25 minutes ago, AzShooter said:

research CARMONIZED HAMMER.

In fact, if you utilize our search function for Carmonized, or just "Carmoney", you should strike pure Gold.

Mike's posted so much helpful info here that's sadly gotten buried under topics of a more-recent nature. 

He's a Second Chance Master Blaster*, and an all-around wheelie-gun good guy.

 

*look it up - "Second Chance" shoot. 80's-90's era, I think.

Many great videos on YouTube.

 

[jcc7x7]

12 hours ago, Drillbit said:

I finally got the hammer cut today.  This is where  I ended.

It all went well. I hand held it while grinding with air tools, slow but worked.

I scribed a line  at the start you can see in the photo. This was with the hammer at the fired position . The cut I made is in the unfired position..  I must admit, even after the good advice I have gotten here I was still apprehensive of going to far.

Got finished up and tested the trigger pull and can honestly say I can not feel a real difference.

 

You still have to work the main spring and rebound spring to get a lighter trigger. 

Then range test to find where it will reliably light off your primers.

I usually go an 1/8 turn more than where it sets off primers (federals not crushed) 

It's really not hard to get a 6 to 6 1/2 lb DA trigger pull that is reliable.  Any lighter and I tend to short stroke the gun, BECAUSE I don't practice enough!!!!!!

I rebend my main spring with more arch in the upper section and use 11 lbs rebound springs FWIW.

Good fortune