G34 FTF After Reload

[hermes_actual]

G34.5, Glock 17 rnd mags with TT +4/5 baseplates, 13# recoil spring, 4.5# striker spring and reduced power FPS plunger spring. I've been getting FTF (light strikes) immediately (i.e. on the chambered round) after reloading (not slide lock reloads). I tried downloading my mags by one round at yesterday's match and problem didn't recur, but that wasn't a large sample size. Any thoughts on what might be happening? TIA.

[jerseyglock]

For FTF (light strikes) return back to stock striker spring setup and recheck.

[Braxton1]

While agreeing with JerseyGlock above, I am mystified as to the correlation between "reload the gun" and "then have a light strike".  Is this common enough that you can say empirically that this is when it is happening and not at some more-random timing?

 

I may be in the minority here, but if I use a lighter Firing Pin Spring, I always use a lightened Firing Pin.  This ensures that the lighter spring can still accelerate the Firing Pin to a velocity that'll pop any primer out there.  ("Energy" is a very velocity-weighted calculation....).

[hermes_actual]

1 hour ago, Braxton1 said:

Is this common enough that you can say empirically that this is when it is happening and not at some more-random timing?

Yes, it is. It doesn't happen after every reload, but when I get a light strike it is always after a reload.

 

I realize that going back to a stock striker spring or trying a lighter striker may solve the problem or at least rule those parts out as a cause and will troubleshoot by systematically testing parts. However, I have to believe that there are people running my exact setup without these issues as well. I'd really like to know if there's an explanation for this. 

 

There's a thread on calguns about this issue. https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1658478

Seems to have been resolved with a recoil spring change. 

 

[Sarge]

Is the light primer strike off center on the primer? That would indicate the slide is not closed completely. In turn that would point to recoil spring. Try slingshotting the slide when you load it. Clean the gun and lube it good. If it works fine until it gets dirty the again I would think recoil spring.
  If striker hits are normal location then try a different striker. When I ran a G34 set up like yours  I used a lightened and lengthened striker. Was 100% reliable.

 

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: Here is what I would do. Put all your stock parts back in the pistol and check to see if that solves the problem. If it does work 100% change one part at a time starting with the recoil spring. Make sure the striker is not binding in the tunnel as well and you have the cups installed correctly. Thanks, Eric

[Nightforce]

As Sarge said your recoil spring may not be returning the slide fully into battery. Another probable source of this issue could be that the striker spring is worn out and needs replaced. I had an issue with light primer strikes that I purchased an expensive custom striker to resolve the problem only to find out that all I needed was a new striker spring. If you are going to play around with reduced power springs it is always worth considering using Federal primers since they pop easier than others.

[hermes_actual]

4 hours ago, Sarge said:

Is the light primer strike off center on the primer? That would indicate the slide is not closed completely. In turn that would point to recoil spring. Try slingshotting the slide when you load it. Clean the gun and lube it good. If it works fine until it gets dirty the again I would think recoil spring.
  If striker hits are normal location then try a different striker. When I ran a G34 set up like yours  I used a lightened and lengthened striker. Was 100% reliable.

 

Thanks. This has happened with a clean gun. The rounds I've been able to recover have off center strikes.

[hermes_actual]

4 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:

Hello: Here is what I would do. Put all your stock parts back in the pistol and check to see if that solves the problem. If it does work 100% change one part at a time starting with the recoil spring. Make sure the striker is not binding in the tunnel as well and you have the cups installed correctly. Thanks, Eric

Great advice. Thanks.

[hermes_actual]

52 minutes ago, Nightforce said:

As Sarge said your recoil spring may not be returning the slide fully into battery. Another probable source of this issue could be that the striker spring is worn out and needs replaced. I had an issue with light primer strikes that I purchased an expensive custom striker to resolve the problem only to find out that all I needed was a new striker spring. If you are going to play around with reduced power springs it is always worth considering using Federal primers since they pop easier than others.

Easy enough to change springs. Will do. Always use Federal primers for this reason.

[Southpaw]

Sounds like the 13lb spring isn't holding slide forward with enough force, so when you slam home a fresh mag that is causing slide to shake out of battery slightly. On the Gen 5 that recoil spring is under less pre-tension than same weight spring on previous generations, so less force holding slide closed. Although it seems most people have no problem with 13lb spring in Gen 5. Using factory recoil spring should fix it, or even a 15lb spring.

[hermes_actual]

20 hours ago, Southpaw said:

Sounds like the 13lb spring isn't holding slide forward with enough force, so when you slam home a fresh mag that is causing slide to shake out of battery slightly. On the Gen 5 that recoil spring is under less pre-tension than same weight spring on previous generations, so less force holding slide closed. Although it seems most people have no problem with 13lb spring in Gen 5. Using factory recoil spring should fix it, or even a 15lb spring.

Thanks. Interesting info about the Gen 5 pre-tension. I'm going to try an increased weight recoil spring as you suggest.