lppd4 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 What is the current best set up for the fire control parts for a competition trigger (2 lbs or so) on a 1911. What hammer sear trigger disconnector Mainspring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rnlinebacker Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Get the EGW gun works ignition kit. Will last for a very long time. Most builders nowadays are utilizing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuletchi1 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 SVI triglide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 The jewels eventually fall out of all the triglide stuff. I start with EGW fire control parts because they are so precisely made. Another reason is the sear is the thinnest where it contacts the thumb safety pad. So when your TS starts to wear and the ham hands doing the testing at the chrono station pull the trigger so hard the safety disengages, you have options. Going to an Extreme Engineering sear, which is fatter in that region, will allow you to fit the TS again without having to peen it. Next up would be a Harrison Custom sear. They are the fattest I have found. EGW sears come with the secondary already cut. I prefer to buy their long nose sear and put a True Radius on it and cut the secondary myself. A TR nose is foolproof. BTW, The EGW Ball Head disco requires fitting. If you don't like EGW for some reason, Extreme Engineering makes fine stuff. Cylinder & Slide kits are EE stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpl Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Extreme Engineering ultra lite all the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY BARONE Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 Koenig hammer, Extreme ultra lite sear and disconnector, Colt sear spring ,EGW Ti main spring cap, Sti Ti strut,17# Ismi main spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bokbok_05 Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 my trigger setup: Koenig hammer EGW sear EGW disconnector 17lbs. main spring Dlask medium trigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 I think that the Extreme Engineering Ultra Lite is probably the easiest to use if you don't have many sear / hammer tools or don't want to pay for someone else to fit them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerjd Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 The tuned kit from Brazos is hands down the absolute best drop in kit on the market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GringoBandito Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 11 minutes ago, Bakerjd said: The tuned kit from Brazos is hands down the absolute best drop in kit on the market. This is the way. Great trigger group that requires very little to get and keep running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim vaughan Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 Find out whether you need an extra long sear spring before you order a kit, otherwise you will have to order twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absocold Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 Parts don't matter so much. You can get a 2lb 1911/2011 trigger with anything as long as the starting dimensions and angles are on point. Whatever the gun came with is often good enough. However some companies make better stuff than others and I'll occasionally find parts that are out of spec and simply can't be fixed. I've had the best luck with newer EGW, Wilson stuff made in the 90's and USGI surplus parts 70ish years old. Avoid Metal Injection Molded (MIM) parts at all costs. If you're just going to drop them in and go and don't require ultimate reliability they're fine. But MIM parts are case hardened and can't be worked hard for a trigger job without re-hardening and then lightly polishing the final result. Not worth the time and effort unless there's no alternative available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerjd Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 On 1/4/2021 at 6:10 AM, jim vaughan said: Find out whether you need an extra long sear spring before you order a kit, otherwise you will have to order twice. Other then the old Para widebody frames I havent seen anything that needed a longer sear spring ever. What frames/grips have you found that need them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim vaughan Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 STI frames with STI plastic grips. I have 2 that need long leaf springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 23 hours ago, jim vaughan said: STI frames with STI plastic grips. I have 2 that need long leaf springs. Yup, for a while STI was making them 'long' for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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