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Chiappa Rhino "Competition" Trigger Job


matteekay

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2 hours ago, Fishbreath said:

Man, is that a cool-looking gun from the hat cam. Once again, I sure do wish they made an 8-rounder.

 

I'm always torn on the aesthetics. I think it's objectively ugly, but I like how it looks because it truly is form following function. I guess it's the same reason I think things like obnoxious hood scoops and bolt-on splitters are attractive on race cars (but less so on Honda Civics...).

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2 hours ago, Doge said:

Good on you for shooting it at a match though! Awesome. 

 

Thanks! They're my main gun at this point - used one in IDPA Regionals last year, slated to use them again this year in IDPA Regionals, ICORE Regionals, USPSA CO State Championship, and Border Wars (4" for IDPA, 5" or 6" for everything else; still playing with both of them until I settle on one I like more). 

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22 hours ago, matteekay said:

 

Thanks! They're my main gun at this point - used one in IDPA Regionals last year, slated to use them again this year in IDPA Regionals, ICORE Regionals, USPSA CO State Championship, and Border Wars (4" for IDPA, 5" or 6" for everything else; still playing with both of them until I settle on one I like more). 

You need to shoot a match with my 625

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20 hours ago, matteekay said:

 

Bring me ammo and I gun and I'll happily use it. Hell, I might have to buy a 625 if small primers don't turn up soon.

Why I never sold my 625!  I can at least practice with it or shoot major in USPSA or L6 in ICORE.

 

Like to keep my options open!

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12 minutes ago, pskys2 said:

Why I never sold my 625!  I can at least practice with it or shoot major in USPSA or L6 in ICORE.

 

Like to keep my options open!

 

Warren and I have discussed making a Rhino into a 10mm if things get desperate enough... Right now, 10mm brass is about as hard to get as primers, though.

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4 hours ago, pskys2 said:

Why I never sold my 625!  I can at least practice with it or shoot major in USPSA or L6 in ICORE.

 

Like to keep my options open!

 

I didn't get my 5" 625 until a month after the 8-shot rule change. I love shooting major at local matches, I wish I could go back and start shooting USPSA earlier.

 

4 hours ago, matteekay said:

 

Warren and I have discussed making a Rhino into a 10mm if things get desperate enough... Right now, 10mm brass is about as hard to get as primers, though.

 

Do you have a Rhino in .357? I have older loading data that shows major loads that would fit in a .38 special case.

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8 hours ago, matteekay said:

 

Warren and I have discussed making a Rhino into a 10mm if things get desperate enough... Right now, 10mm brass is about as hard to get as primers, though.

Might be if you had 45 acp brass, LPP's and a 40 Revolver you could get an extra 40 Cylinder and ream it out to 400 corbon?

I had built a 1911 in .400 corbon after the turn of the century.  They are usually SPP's and I have a lot of brass, but you can form 45 acp brass and I have quite a lot of Nickel Brass that I formed into 400, so I could easily ID them from the normal 400 brass.  Did it because I had an excess of 45 brass and 40 caliber bullets and LPP's.

Also have a 625 that when I get bullets for can load them for Revo.  Already have several k's that can be used.

Saving my last few thousand of Fed 100's for Revo only!

I am praying for relief, searching, scrounging, begging and praying for Fed SPP's!

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20 hours ago, matteekay said:

 

Warren and I have discussed making a Rhino into a 10mm if things get desperate enough... Right now, 10mm brass is about as hard to get as primers, though.

How desperate?  I have ~940 new unfired Starline 10mm brass and 60 once fired plus a few cases I found on the range.  Shipping won't be cheap and we won't be shooting at the RMR or anywhere in the USA this year.  :(

Edited by MikeyScuba
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1 hour ago, MikeyScuba said:

How desperate?  I have ~940 new unfired Starline 10mm brass and 60 once fired plus a few cases I found on the range.  Shipping won't be cheap and we won't be shooting at the RMR or anywhere in the USA this year.  :(

 

Not that bad yet. I think I can make it through this season with what I have. Thanks, though - I'll keep you in mind.

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  • 4 months later...

I took my new Rhino apart today, just to see how it works. When I popped the sideplate by using a hammer to strike the base of the grip (like I do on Smith & Wesson guns) of course several parts came loose and fell out. I spent about an hour figuring out how it all fits together. Very clever design, with both old and new design features. I'd be curious to know how factory technicians get the sideplate off without disturbing anything inside. Any clues?

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2 hours ago, buff51 said:

I took my new Rhino apart today, just to see how it works. When I popped the sideplate by using a hammer to strike the base of the grip (like I do on Smith & Wesson guns) of course several parts came loose and fell out. I spent about an hour figuring out how it all fits together. Very clever design, with both old and new design features. I'd be curious to know how factory technicians get the sideplate off without disturbing anything inside. Any clues?

 

I've wondered the same thing. I gently pry with a gunsmithing screwdriver from a few different places but all of my guns have marks now.

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  • 7 months later...
On 7/17/2021 at 3:14 AM, matteekay said:

 

I've wondered the same thing. I gently pry with a gunsmithing screwdriver from a few different places but all of my guns have marks now.

On 12/22/2020 at 9:28 PM, matteekay said:

I read about that how should to open that side plate. Other side is hole and should to using punch to strike that plate open.

Now my Rhino have done 13K rounds and I planning open that plate and clean internal parts. What is most important thing to remember when opening and try to get parts back inside? 

 

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9 hours ago, akjack said:

 

 

Pry from the cocking lever opening, then the trigger guard, doing a little each time and swapping back and forth.

 

The side plate holds the internals in place but they're not under sideways tension so nothing will fly out at you. Having said that, the hammer/spring linkage is literally just resting in place and gets jarred loose very easily. It also has a donut-shaped bushing where it interfaces with the hammer that's not pressed on or anything so it might come out with the linkage and then fall off. Remove that part carefully and set it aside.

 

Don't force the side plate on. If it's not dropping in, something is out of alignment and needs to be fixed.

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  • 6 months later...

I have a new 40DS Rhino that I intend to compete with (although I am brand new to guns). I’m struggling a bit with the trigger pull and grip. Because the grip length is a bit long for my hand, I quickly fatigue with the trigger pull. How much difference is there with a new trigger kit for this gun? 

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On 9/17/2022 at 4:28 PM, Libby said:

I have a new 40DS Rhino that I intend to compete with (although I am brand new to guns). I’m struggling a bit with the trigger pull and grip. Because the grip length is a bit long for my hand, I quickly fatigue with the trigger pull. How much difference is there with a new trigger kit for this gun? 

 

10 hours ago, gargoil66 said:

Libby:

 

From reading the posts here, I do not think there is a trigger kit for one.

 

GG

 

No, there 100% is. That was the point of my post.

 

Mine dropped from the 9+ lb mark down to 7ish, and has worn in to mid-6's. However, like with any competition revolver, you're limited to using Federal primers fully-seated in your handloads.

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My mistake:

 

Didn't

20 minutes ago, matteekay said:

 

 

No, there 100% is. That was the point of my post.

 

Mine dropped from the 9+ lb mark down to 7ish, and has worn in to mid-6's. However, like with any competition revolver, you're limited to using Federal primers fully-seated in your handloads.

 

MK:

 

My mistake,  2020 post with pictures.

 

GG

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