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P320 X5 Legion- Best Upgrades & Gear for Carry Optics?


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Like it says, I am curious what upgrades & gear/accessories all of you are currently running or have tried for your X5 Legion's in Carry Optics division.

 

Are there any absolutely necessary or immediate upgrades needed or must have gear & accessories? Any suggestions, recommendations and pics/breakdowns would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks in advance. 

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I have an x5  that i have loaded up. norso slide, faxon barrel ,pmm double comp, tungsten guide rod 12.5#1911 spring, txg grip, gray cun trigger kit, keres adjustable trigger, sro. its a shooter

 

My legion i left mostly factory with gg kit . i want to swap the front sight and trigger though

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Trigger of choice is probably best upgrade. I’ve only used GG and it is a good upgrade. 

 

grip texture of choice second - I use silica carbide but that is preference. 
 

tungsten guide rod and thumbrest options probably third. I’ve used gogun and armory craft takedown levers and both are good. 
 

All of this after picking a good dot of course. 

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1 hour ago, m700 said:

I have an x5  that i have loaded up. norso slide, faxon barrel ,pmm double comp, tungsten guide rod 12.5#1911 spring, txg grip, gray cun trigger kit, keres adjustable trigger, sro. its a shooter

 

My legion i left mostly factory with gg kit . i want to swap the front sight and trigger though

armory craft adjustable not Keres sorry. Also have the *thumb rest [generic]* on the x5 I like it a couple people I have shot with like it but its not for everyone. Silicone carbide is also good I put it on my grip(maybe a little too much and a little too high) Use it where its needed not necessary up the beaver tail.

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5 hours ago, m700 said:

armory craft adjustable not Keres sorry. Also have the *thumb rest [generic]* on the x5 I like it a couple people I have shot with like it but its not for everyone. Silicone carbide is also good I put it on my grip(maybe a little too much and a little too high) Use it where its needed not necessary up the beaver tail.

The owner of GGs posted in another thread that using the AC trigger with the gg kits can disable the striker safety and is not recommended. 

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2 hours ago, Rich406 said:

The owner of GGs posted in another thread that using the AC trigger with the gg kits can disable the striker safety and is not recommended. 

Yeah, I'm still trying to understand exactly what you need to know to avoid the AC trigger from disabling any safeties.

If you don't have the GG trigger, I *think* not using the pre-travel adjustment on the AC trigger keeps all safeties intact.  But I'm not 100% sure on that.

My slightly-curved AC trigger is in the mail (I hate flat triggers) but I might return it unless I can get a definitive answer.

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2 minutes ago, matto6 said:

Yeah, I'm still trying to understand exactly what you need to know to avoid the AC trigger from disabling any safeties.

If you don't have the GG trigger, I *think* not using the pre-travel adjustment on the AC trigger keeps all safeties intact.  But I'm not 100% sure on that.
 

If you leave all the pre travel in, that should work.

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14 hours ago, Rich406 said:

The owner of GGs posted in another thread that using the AC trigger with the gg kits can disable the striker safety and is not recommended. 

 

Bruce Gray is a business owner and has my respect for creating products for our niche market.  There is a certain amount of liability relating to gun parts and specifically trigger parts.   Sig identified that there is a certain amount of pre-travel required on the trigger so that if the P320 is dropped and it lands on the heel of the weapon (which is the famous "drop test") it will not activate the firing mechanism.  The original P320's did not have the safety cam but did have a much heavier trigger part.  That was the reason for the recall and the no-charge retro fit that included a skeletonized trigger.  His insistance that only his trigger should be used with his trigger upgrade kits seems as a warning to those that decide to install a different trigger. 

 

After installing the Armory Craft trigger, if the pre-travel screw is set in too far, cycling the slide will not reset the trigger.  Setting the two adjustment screws is a process.  You screw one of them all the way in and then start backing it out until the gun functions.  Then you do the same for the other one.  If the set screws are in too far, the gun doesn't function.  Either it will not fire when the trigger is pulled or the trigger does not reset.  Turn the screw another 1/8 turn out and try again.

 

In addition, the trigger still has to move a certain amount when pulled to get the gun to fire.  The pre-travel screw simply sets where you feel the wall, the point were additional pressure has to be applied to move the trigger.

 

11 hours ago, matto6 said:

Yeah, I'm still trying to understand exactly what you need to know to avoid the AC trigger from disabling any safeties.

If you don't have the GG trigger, I *think* not using the pre-travel adjustment on the AC trigger keeps all safeties intact.  But I'm not 100% sure on that.

My slightly-curved AC trigger is in the mail (I hate flat triggers) but I might return it unless I can get a definitive answer.

 

There is a cam that moves during the trigger pull.  You can see it's action by looking at the side of the slide, near the back when you pull the trigger.  The slide will move ever so slightly up and then forward. 

 

To check for the abillity to fire out of battery, cycle the slide and hold it to the rear.  Slowly let the slide move forward while pulling the trigger multiple times.  The firing pin should NOT be released until the barrel / slide are completely locked together.

 

11 hours ago, Rich406 said:

If you leave all the pre travel in, that should work.

 

The point of the AC trigger is to adjust pre-travel.  It's up to you to adjust the set screws correctly and then lock-tite them in place.  

 

DISCLAIMER:  I am not a gunsmith, I've never played one on TV and I didn't stay at the Holiday Inn last night.  I have not attended the Sig P-Series Armorer class.  This post contains information gleaned by installing and adjusting the AC triggers in my two Legions.  Proceed at your own risk.

 

As to the original upgrades question:

Gray Guns Competition trigger kit installed by Robert Burke of The Sig Armorer along with his Competition trigger job.

Armory Craft trigger

*Generic thumb rest* Take Down Lever (gets the thumb to the same place every time)

GX Products holster

Sig Romeo3 XL 6 moa dot

Live Fire Practice

 

Products removed:

Hogue grip - It added a nice feel to the grip for larger hands but induced too much dot bounce.  The rubber grip acted as a shock absorber and the gun moved around more with it than without it.

 

BC

 

 

Edited by BillChunn
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4 hours ago, BillChunn said:

 

The point of the AC trigger is to adjust pre-travel.  It's up to you to adjust the set screws correctly and then lock-tite them in place.  

 

Thats the problem, if you adjust out the pre travel then the trigger is pushing up on the striker safety and making the gun not drop safe. Pre travel makes essentially no difference when you are actually shooting the gun. Why take the risk?

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24 minutes ago, Rich406 said:

Thats the problem, if you adjust out the pre travel then the trigger is pushing up on the striker safety and making the gun not drop safe. Pre travel makes essentially no difference when you are actually shooting the gun. Why take the risk?

For me, pre-travel does make a difference.  I prefer a solid wall with very little trigger movement.  If the pre-travel screw is set in too far, the trigger does not reset.  There is still some pre-travel movement with how I set my AC trigger.  It moves the minimum distance to cam the striker safety out of the way. The striker safety is still functional so the gun is drop safe.  It was tested with a snap cap in place and dropped to the floor from waist height, directly on the beavertail and the muzzle several times.  The striker never released.

 

YMMV

 

BC

Edited by BillChunn
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Not much if yours group well.  I shot mine stock for a while and it runs well, easily adaptable.  I eventually went down the slippery slope and asked what if?.  I have TSA trigger, fitted Barsto, tungsten guide and slug, silicon carbide grip work and SRO/R3Max optics.

Edited by Stician
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11 hours ago, Stician said:

Not much if yours group well.  I shot mine stock for a while and it runs well, easily adaptable.  I eventually went down the slippery slope and asked what if?.  I have TSA trigger, fitted Barsto, tungsten guide and slug, silicon carbide grip work and SRO/R3Max optics.

Did TSA fit your Barsto barrel?  If so, how did it come out?  With the new barrel and fitting job, what pound recoil spring are you using?

 

BC

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4 hours ago, BillChunn said:

Did TSA fit your Barsto barrel?  If so, how did it come out?  With the new barrel and fitting job, what pound recoil spring are you using?

 

BC

I have a couple fitted barsto barrels by TSA. Ive found the difference to be pretty marginal.

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46 minutes ago, Rich406 said:

 

I have a couple fitted barsto barrels by TSA. Ive found the difference to be pretty marginal.

 

37 minutes ago, WaltK said:

By that do you mean a large or small difference in accuracy?

 

31 minutes ago, Rich406 said:

small to unnoticeable difference under 25 yards

My original Legion had the Loaded Chamber Indicator (LCI) cut in the barrel hood which caused debris to be thrown on the optic glass as it is setup for CO division.  That was the major reason the barrel was replaced by the Barsto.  Sig is in the process of replacing the LCI barrel with one that does not have that opening, but with the demand for the Legion, it might be a while before the barrel is shipped.

 

What weight recoil spring are both of you using?  It might help if you also identify what ammunition you are shooting.

Thanks in advance.

 

BC

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