Anybody use an extended firing pin in an S&W 617 (.22 cal)?

[revoman]

Pinnacle Custom, TK Custom two of the best

[ysrracer]

5 hours ago, revoman said:

Pinnacle Custom, TK Custom two of the best

 

I talked to Pinnacle, I'll be in touch with them after the holidays.

 

Thanks

[ysrracer]

In summary, I'm not a gunsmith.

 

Literally all I did was replace the stock hammer with the Apex hammer. The gun still has a 70% ftf rate in double action, 0% ftf rate in single action. Same as before.

 

The only difference is the trigger pull is heavier now. 

 

[Toolguy]

At the bottom of your first picture, the strain screw is backed all the way out. That needs to get screwed all the way in.

[ysrracer]

1 hour ago, Toolguy said:

At the bottom of your first picture, the strain screw is backed all the way out. That needs to get screwed all the way in.

 

Yes, before I take the side plate off, I back out the screw, so I don't snap off the hammer stud.

 

When the side plate is on and tight, then I screw in the strain screw all the way.

[Toolguy]

That is a good practice. The mainspring will clear the rebound slide when it's bent by the strain screw. 

 

I have not been able to get my 617 trigger pull below 9 pounds with any reliability.  I just discovered that the firing pin was hitting the fp retaining pin before the hammer was all the way down. I filed a bit of clearance on the firing pin to let it go forward a little bit more. I will try that later and report back. The hammer blow was being partially blocked by the retaining pin.

Edited December 22, 2020 by Toolguy

[ysrracer]

2 minutes ago, Toolguy said:

That is a good practice. The mainspring will clear the rebound slide when it's bent by the strain screw.

 

You mean the black slide thingy and the skinny thingy?

 

[Toolguy]

That's the ones!

[ysrracer]

Well, I've got good news, and bad news.

 

The good news is, when I was on my hands and knees looking for the little spring and pin from the back of the cylinder bolt, I found an unfired Federal Small Pistol Primer.

 

.

Edited December 22, 2020 by ysrracer

[alecmc]

5 hours ago, ysrracer said:

In summary, I'm not a gunsmith.

 

Literally all I did was replace the stock hammer with the Apex hammer. The gun still has a 70% ftf rate in double action, 0% ftf rate in single action. Same as before.

 

The only difference is the trigger pull is heavier now. 

 

 

 

I'm confused here. The apex hammers do not have any single action mode. How can it " still " be % FTF in single action mode with the apex hammer...when the apex hammer doesn't have  single action notch. 

[ysrracer]

1 hour ago, alecmc said:

 

 

I'm confused here. The apex hammers do not have any single action mode. How can it " still " be % FTF in single action mode with the apex hammer...when the apex hammer doesn't have  single action notch. 

 

The mass drive .22 hammer does.

[alecmc]

10 minutes ago, ysrracer said:

 

The mass drive .22 hammer does.

 

Just looked it up, didnt realize apex redesigned their mass driver hammer from DAO to have a SA spur.

[ysrracer]

23 minutes ago, alecmc said:

 

Just looked it up, didnt realize apex redesigned their mass driver hammer from DAO to have a SA spur.

 

I wouldn't lie to you. Well, I would, but not about this

[ysrracer]

I put the stock hammer back in, much lighter than the Apex. I measured the firing pin. It's .487, and flat on the tip.

 

I had one that was the same length, but had a bigger slot cut in it. I put that in. After the holidays I'll take it to the range, and report back.

[JRB]

Good morning Guys.

 

To start off i hope and wish you all a very safe holidays.

 

I always find the comments on this web site very interesting.

 

I have a 10 shot 617, tool guy, for sure the best I can get is 9lbs on the trigger.

As to the extended firing pin, yes / yes / yes, I have about 2000 rounds through the firearm, no marks on the cylinder what so ever, when I got the pin, from a very good source I was told it would cause issues, i have no clue how this could happen the pin hit in the location it should, every round goes off so far.

I do not get how the extended pin could damage the cylinder!!!, but even if it hit in the wrong location it would not stop or cause issues.

So if you think you need it go for it.

 

This firing pin I used is the same for all the S/W's I have them in 3 of my revolvers, and if I remember my 929 had a hollow pin in it.

In the end all works great.

 

Russell

Canadian shooter of all that's fun.

[ysrracer]

What brand are you using?

[JRB]

I thought I was not allowed to say the name on the web site.

So if I get crap sorry guys.

C&S sorry

 

Russell

 

Edited December 23, 2020 by JRB
mistake

[mchapman]

The extended pins damage the cylinders when you dry fire  the 617. You may get away with dry fire on a 617 with the factory firing pin , but I wouldn't risk it. Use snap caps or drywall anchors #6 for dry fire. As to the damage to the cylinder it peens a dimple in the cylinder face where the case rim fits and it swells the metal into the cylinder bore so it makes it hard to insert or remove the the round. With enough peening the case is not inserted deep enough and you can't close the cylinder. Using an extended firing pin while actually shooting does not hurt the cylinder, it strikes the rim on the case to set off the round.

 

[alecmc]

2 hours ago, JRB said:

 

I do not get how the extended pin could damage the cylinder!!!, but even if it hit in the wrong location it would not stop or cause issues.

So if you think you need it go for it.

 

 

The firing pins on RIMfires are offset so that they hit the rim of the case, not the center like in centerfire cartridges ( CENTERfire / RIMfire )

 

So, on the 617 with dry firing -  if you have a firing pin in there thats long enough it make contact with the edges of the chamber mouth on the cylinder face, peening and and deforming it. 

Edited December 23, 2020 by alecmc

[JRB]

Hi Guys.

 

I forgot to say no dryfiring the .22.

snap caps only.

 

and you are correct the pin will damage the cylinder if dry firing with out snap caps or used brass.

I love the firearm and OMG it will shoot.!!!

 

Russell

[ysrracer]

What if I remove the cylinder, then dry fire?

[alecmc]

1 hour ago, ysrracer said:

What if I remove the cylinder, then dry fire?

 

Trigger wont pull unless the center bolt pin is pushed in from the extra rod center pin on the cylinder. 

[Carmoney]

Some years ago, I messed around trying to figure out a way to bring down the DA trigger pull on a 617 while maintaining 100% ignition reliability.  I tried all sorts of stuff, including the factory hammer, the first-generation Apex rimfire hammer, a cut-off Carmonized stock hammer, and a variety of factory and aftermarket firing pins.  The Apex hammer did not work for me, and neither did Carmonizing the factory hammer.    

 

I experimented a lot, and finally settled on a plain, unmodified factory hammer and (although it makes me shudder to say it) the C&S extended firing pin.  Taking weight off the factory hammer works great when busting centerfire primers, but not for rimfire ammo.  For some reason, the extended length pin allowed me to drop the mainspring tension down a little further and still work.  Be advised that dry-firing with any extended firing pin will cause the tip of the pin to contact the edges of the chamber mouths and ding them up.  I did this on my 617 without realizing it.  This is not a cause for any huge panic--if it happens, just relieve those dinged spots with a thin conical cratex tip in your Dremel tool and carry on. 

 

The other thing to be aware of--if you lighten the action on a 617 to the point that it's getting close to the raw edge of reliability, you will need to keep the chambers and extractor clean if you don't want clickers.  Also, many 617s have notoriously tight chambers that need the touch of a finish reamer--it's no fun having to beat on the extractor rod to get the empties out.              

[ysrracer]

6 minutes ago, Carmoney said:

Some years ago, I messed around trying to figure out a way to bring down the DA trigger pull on a 617 while maintaining 100% ignition reliability.  I tried all sorts of stuff, including the factory hammer, the first-generation Apex rimfire hammer, a cut-off Carmonized stock hammer, and a variety of factory and aftermarket firing pins.  The Apex hammer did not work for me, and neither did Carmonizing the factory hammer.    

 

I experimented a lot, and finally settled on a plain, unmodified factory hammer and (although it makes me shudder to say it) the C&S extended firing pin.  Taking weight off the factory hammer works great when busting centerfire primers, but not for rimfire ammo.  For some reason, the extended length pin allowed me to drop the mainspring tension down a little further and still work.  Be advised that dry-firing with any extended firing pin will cause the tip of the pin to contact the edges of the chamber mouths and ding them up.  I did this on my 617 without realizing it.  This is not a cause for any huge panic--if it happens, just relieve those dinged spots with a thin conical cratex tip in your Dremel tool and carry on. 

 

The other thing to be aware of--if you lighten the action on a 617 to the point that it's getting close to the raw edge of reliability, you will need to keep the chambers and extractor clean if you don't want clickers.  Also, many 617s have notoriously tight chambers that need the touch of a finish reamer--it's no fun having to beat on the extractor rod to get the empties out.              

 

Great info, thanks. When can I send my gun to you?

 

[Carmoney]

Second Tuesday of next week.