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Miculek trigger rebound


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Hi,

 

I installed a Miculek main spring and his trigger rebound spring in a 929. The double action and single action are light and will set off even CCI primers. Problem is the trigger reset is now bumpy and slow. It's sort of feels like it's a two-stage reset. I'm new to revolvers and I'm not sure what's going on. I haven't stoned any of the parts and other than installing a new fiber optic front sight haven't done any other work.

 

Anyone have thoughts? Right now I'm going to return to the original factory rebound spring. I've seen other posts that say the main spring and rebound spring should be "balanced". So will using the middle of spring in the factory rebound cause a problem?

 

But biggest issue is the slow and draggy reset.

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Bless your heart..... If you're still able to set off CCI primers your trigger is not light. Just wait till you get it down to proper weights! 

 

Sounds like you'd benefit from a reputable gunsmith to work of your parts. It makes a world of difference. 

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My story and I am sticking to it is that I once got a beautiful trigger job from Randy Lee.  5 and one half pounds/Federal primers carefully loaded.  The problem for me was the weak return.  I was informed that that is the price of a super light trigger.  That the faster shooters released the trigger rather than riding the return.  I could never get the hang of that so the trigger job was lost on me.  My problem.

 

The balance between a light pull and the return is a matter for experiment and will be slightly different for every gun.

 

Have fun

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there is a delicate balance between the hammer and rebound springs, the lower the hammer spring tension the better the rebound with any given rebound spring weight. 

the easiest way to tune things is to take the gun to the range and take the grip off and back out the strain screw some then test fire a full moonclip of your ammo. if they all go off back it out a little more and try again till you start having light strikes. once you find that point where you just set off all the rounds turn the screw in 1/4 and see how the trigger feels. if you like the reset then you are good to either shorten and locktite or just locktite the screw in place (yes that means turn it all the way in and figure out how many turns out it is so you can clean it locktite it and put it back in the same spot or know how much to shorten it) if you still don't like the reset feel you can go to a heavier rebound spring, wolff sells them in several weights and I believe they have a 3 spring pack so you can try several to see what you like.

 

 

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The main thing you can do to get the lightest good rebound is to radius and polish the 2 mating corners where the rebound slide pushes the hammer when it goes forward. One corner is on the hammer, one on the rebound slide. Once they both have a generous radius and are polished, oil them. You can then use the lightest rebound spring that you like the way it works. I would get the Wolff springs in 11 to 14 pounds. Most people will end up with a 12 or 13, some will use the 11.

 

hammer and rebound slide

 

The picture above shows the 2 corners to radius and polish for a better return with a light spring.

 

trigger, hammer, rebound slide

 

The picture above shows a radiused trigger and the top corner that eats your finger if left sharp. This trigger is comfortable to use all day. Also other views of the radius on rebound slide and hammer. I do the radius and polish in about a minute each on rebound and hammer and about 5 minutes on the trigger with a Scotchbrite wheel.  These are not as clear as I would like, but it's the best I could get with a cell phone.

Edited by Toolguy
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22 hours ago, Toolguy said:

The main thing you can do to get the lightest good rebound is to radius and polish the 2 mating corners where the rebound slide pushes the hammer when it goes forward. One corner is on the hammer, one on the rebound slide. Once they both have a generous radius and are polished, oil them. You can then use the lightest rebound spring that you like the way it works. I would get the Wolff springs in 11 to 14 pounds. Most people will end up with a 12 or 13, some will use the 11.

Warren - Can you post a picture of the generous radius done correctly?

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Tool guy - Thanks very much for the photos! Now I get it. I've just ordered the video, but the photos give me a good start. Appreciate it. It looks like you're changed to real metal for the trigger. Looks like same for hammer and rebound slide? 

Edited by midatlantic
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Those are old parts from the parts bin. The hammer is MIM, the trigger and rebound slide are forged. The same thing works for both new and old parts, forged or MIM. I have found it's best not to mix the old and new in one gun. They don't always play well together. The pics were just random parts that showed what I wanted to show.

Edited by Toolguy
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I have the full vcr tape of the full trigger job. Only problem is most people don’t have a VCR. Oh yea it is jerry himself. Shows which part to stone and which part not to stone.

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Tool guy - thanks again. Went ahead and polished the two  corners, and the bottom of the rebound slide, and the Miculek rebound spring now works pretty well. No more hanging up and is even a bit smoother than w the factory spring. Noticed the frame on which the rebound slide travels is machined so that the foreword half is higher than the rear, forward being the muzzle end. It’s the same as in illustrations in the 5th edition manual. Anyone know why? To shed debris?

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