How to Set Up Honey Badger Case Trimmer???

[brennon272]

Hello,

 

I am new to reloading and am running a dillon XL750 with Armanov Free Float tool heads and lock rings. I went with the honey badger case trimmer setup because I eventually want to convert 5.56 to 300 blk. I am at a loss for how to set this thing up. Their video sucks (or I do). Basically I am trying to set it up for 308 at the moment. My tool head is set up as follows: 1- Lee universal decapping die 2- empty 3- Redding FL size die 4- trim die 5- Lyman M die. I have C4HD Dillon style trim dies because that was what I could find in stock. Essentially the issue I am having is that when screwing the trim die down to the point it makes contact with the shell plate, there is not enough/any threads for the lock ring once screwed down to that point. Any less and there is no case protrusion into the window for the router bit to contact the case. This is just the first issue I have with this. I am pretty much at a loss with how to actually mount the router with the jack nut and set it up properly. I do not have a lathe to measure concentricity etc. If anyone could please offer advice or instructions I would be greatly appreciative. I am at a loss.

 

Thanks!

[milanuk]

In theory, you can put the lock nut on the bottom side of the tool head - it works as a jam nut just as well there as on top.  Just be very, very careful and do a couple test runs with just that part going full stroke before you get everything *else* set up.  The reason I say this is that multiple people recommended that I do that... and apparently on a 550 there isn't enough room and the nut hits the fingers of the manual indexer.  Probably *not* an issue on a 650/750, but still, go slowly and make sure before you damage something like I did.

 

I opted to go without the jack nut, specifically because I didn't have a lathe.  At that point, I just screwed the HB adapter on the router, set the bit height in the collet, and then screwed the HB adapter + the router down until the cutter got close to making contact, and then snugged up the lock nut.  At that point, it was a lot of back-n-forth, adjust a little, adjust a little more, go back some, go forward, etc. etc. etc. until it was 'close enough.  I'd definitely recommend getting the sizing portion of the trim die all sorted out how you want it, before you start mucking with the trimmer.

[GunslingerDK]

I too, have been at a loss these past few days over the exact same thing. At first I found out that the end mil was loose inside the trimmer. Okay, so I got that tight. Then as you I had to realize that the lock nut can only go on the underside of the toolhead, not enough threading on the upper side. I find the whole thing quite difficult to adjust just right. There is as good as no instructions anywhere to be found. 

 

Some people mention problems with swarf. Has this been resolved or is there simply no way around the boring bar?