S&W 929 new to me

[Mcfoto]

5 hours ago, Intel6 said:

 

I use this tool to safely tighten the rod on my revolvers without damaging it and have never had any of them loosen during use. When you need to loosen it for maintenance you have to tool and don't have to use vise grips. 

 

extractor rod tool

yes, I’m considering this. Not sure if this is better or some gym time to cure my weenie grip hands.

[macbolan]

Wow, I feel like such an idiot.  Oh well, I was running out of primers anyway.  Maybe I'll get the 929 back when Primers start becoming available again.....On the plus side, I did just get a new Buckmark today to start Rimfire steel shooting with...so there's that....And I can get rimfire ammo at least.

[macbolan]

Oh and I also got with the Buckmark a Ruger PCC 9, so I can use that with all the extra 9mm brass I have laying around.  I still have some Winchester primers I can use for that.

[macbolan]

Intel6, do you know if the 929 uses the Small Extractor tool or the large one?  Its an N Frame revolver.

[Intel6]

11 hours ago, macbolan said:

Intel6, do you know if the 929 uses the Small Extractor tool or the large one?  Its an N Frame revolver.

 

Honestly I do not know.  I have had the tool for 20+ years (there was only one choice when I got it) and it is slightly different looking but works the same way.  I would rely on Brownell's tech service to make sure you get the right one. 

[tomjerry1]

Brownells says that the large fits K,L, and N frames

[jdk62738super]

I have some accessories clasifieds moon clips are double alpha .037. Used $3 each in good shape Let me know if intrested

 

John

[jdk62738super]

I use fed cases fed spp 165 ,358 bullet with 2.5 gr of tite group 127 power factor

[MikeyScuba]

Only 2.5gr?  I’m around 2.9gr N320 ~128-129 pf

[RangerMcFadden]

On 10/22/2020 at 10:48 PM, macbolan said:

Intel6, do you know if the 929 uses the Small Extractor tool or the large one?  Its an N Frame revolver.

It’s a large one. K/L/N have nothing to do with it unfortunately. A 66-8 and 66-2 have different extractor sizes despite being K’s. 
 

I use a clothespin with a vice and it works better TBH. But, tool or no tool, load up the cylinder with used brass to take the stress off the star.

 

 

To add my two cents: I’ve found that the round that does not freely rotate inside of the moon clip will cause the TK checker to fail the moon. Pop that non-freewheeling round(s) out and you’ll get a passing moon. So that is to say that it’s all about the brass’s rim. Your undersized die will do nothing! (In my experience).

[Lesliet]

On the loose extractor issue, I just use some leather over my wooden vise jaws and three empties in the cylinder to protect the extractor... run it down snug, and about one more small grunt.  Never comes loose between detail strips.  Some of the books I've read on working on these say you should never use loctite on the extractor threads.  I loctite the sideplate screws and the cylinder release, and that's about it. 

[macbolan]

So just so I understand the potential extractor - ejector rod issue I probably had.  If the ejector rod becomes a bit loose under recoil, that would push the extractor back a little bit and possibly cause the cylinder lockup issue?  Does that sound about right?

[Lesliet]

Sounds plausible... can't say I've experienced that one, yet.  I know one thing other than that that can cause an issue; if the loads ( handloads) are too light.  If you don't already know, when you cap off a revo round, the primer backs out of the pocket.  Normally, the case slams backward and reseats the primer under recoil. If the loads are super light, sometimes the primer won't reseat, and that can tie up the gun.  Not saying that's what your issue was, it sounds like you're on it about the extractor loosening.  

[tomjerry1]

Any of you know the diameter of the roll pin for the front sight?

[alecmc]

I picked this one up years ago for removing the extractor rod. Way better than those little nubby ones you need an allen key for.

 

https://gunsmithertools.com/shop/ols/products/xn-visesmith-a-unique-extractor-rod-tool-for-sw-revolvers-uhc74210c

 

 

[NoSteel]

1 hour ago, tomjerry1 said:

Any of you know the diameter of the roll pin for the front sight?

.055” ?  I drilled mine out a bit larger to use a more common pin size.

Edited October 27, 2020 by NoSteel

[MWP]

On 10/25/2020 at 11:54 AM, macbolan said:

So just so I understand the potential extractor - ejector rod issue I probably had.  If the ejector rod becomes a bit loose under recoil, that would push the extractor back a little bit and possibly cause the cylinder lockup issue?  Does that sound about right?

I think what happens is that the extractor rod grows forward As it loosens, and with guns that lock up on the rod, it makes it difficult to open the cylinder.
 

As far as I am aware, there’s no way for a loose extractor to cause the action to jam up. So in a 929, a loose rod won’t do anything to the action since the yoke is retained differently. 

[tomjerry1]

That sounds like a great idea NoSteel

[RippinSVT]

A crown and forcing cone job should be high on the list.  Easy to do, and the accuracy advantages on these "performance" center guns is unbelievable.  

[tomjerry1]

Being new to revolvers, what needs to be addressed on the forcing cone, is it like crowning/honing/reaming?

[RippinSVT]

6 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:

Being new to revolvers, what needs to be addressed on the forcing cone, is it like crowning/honing/reaming?

 

Modern S&W's, in particular 929's, have suffered from some pour QC in the last 5-10 years.  As a result accuracy has often been piss-poor.  To put into perspective, I did a 929 for a known pro shooter last year and prior to crown/cone work, it would barely keep the shots on paper, 8-10" groups at 25yds from a bench.  After recutting, it would put all 8 into an inch easily.  Essentially all that is done is squaring the crown and ensuring concentric bullet release. On the forcing cone end, the rear of the barrel is squared to the cylinder, and then a gentle taper/leade is reamed into the start of the rifling, ensuring concentric and gradual bullet engagement with the rifling.  It's unbelievable the difference it can make, and it's only an hour job max.

[tomjerry1]

I have yet to shoot my 929, hopefully get to the range this weekend. I'm going to give a current 9mm load a chance before I start working on a new load. Basically 147 Xtreme, 3.5gr Vectan 9.5, CCI SPP(all I have), Win and Blazzer brass, 1.16 OAL. 129pf 5in auto. I'm expecting a drop in pf, but will wait till I chrono. Hopefully my 929 will hold better than 8in at 25 yds? 

 

[ysrracer]

I was unable to shoot Win and Federal factory ammo in my 929 due to light hits, and massive bullet creep.

[tomjerry1]

So I got out yesterday to shoot the new pistol, with the loads for my wife's pistol, it chronoed at 119pf, which I expected, her pistol chronos at 128pf. It shot verything I put in it, of course it is still stock, when the parts come in, I'm going to try and reduce the 14# double action trigger pull, then we'll see? I did have one bullet(that I know) that started to creep/walk out, so guessing my crimp is to light, .378, what are you folks? crimping to. Oh, using 147 Xtreme plated .356? As far as grouping goes, about 1.5 inches at 25yd.

[MWP]

2 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:

So I got out yesterday to shoot the new pistol, with the loads for my wife's pistol, it chronoed at 119pf, which I expected, her pistol chronos at 128pf. It shot verything I put in it, of course it is still stock, when the parts come in, I'm going to try and reduce the 14# double action trigger pull, then we'll see? I did have one bullet(that I know) that started to creep/walk out, so guessing my crimp is to light, .378, what are you folks? crimping to. Oh, using 147 Xtreme plated .356? As far as grouping goes, about 1.5 inches at 25yd.

Set crimp for accuracy. Don’t worry about bullet pull. 

Edited November 1, 2020 by MWP
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