helocat Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 (edited) After yrs of no issues suddenly my small primer D1050 w/ an AmmoBot drive is breaking the little white plastic pin that holds the small powder die adaptor in place. When it breaks the adaptor is in the open position so the powder hopper dumps its entire contents of powder down the back of the press. Huge mess and a PITA. 1. First one broke, choked it up as odd, pulled a back up I have from a tool head set up with the large powder drop. Cleaned up and checked my adjustments and nothing was excessive. Continued loading. 2. Second one broke, pulled one from a tool head not using but now is missing the part. Cleaned up and again checked for any extreme issues, jams, etc. nothing. e-mailed Dillon support. (no calls) They emailed me back a few days later they were shipping out parts. COOL very much appreciated but why is this doing this? 3. Third one broke! WTH. I swapped the entire powder measure with a brand new in the back spare I had. Re-adjusted the whole set up and went back at it. 4. Forth one broke last night, now this is getting ridiculous. Pulled my last spare powder measure I am set back up again BUT know its going to brake. I am thinking of making one using a roll pin but this clearly is an issue with my press that developed. Anyone else have this issue? It seems to be over stressing the plastic pin at the bottom of the downstroke. I have a Mr. Bullet feeder flaring funnell on it. Its set perfectly with the minimum flair needed so the down stroke is not excessive. I am thinking the push rod going up that cycles the powder bar is over traveling somehow, thus pushing the bar farther than intended and braking the little plastic pin. BUT WHY NOW suddenly. Two different powder measures, both did it. The only thing I have not done is pull the powder mount out of the tool head and install it again. But its the same powder mount that has loaded 40k+ 9mm rounds with no issues. Thoughts? Edited October 14, 2020 by helocat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolan Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 (edited) The powder measure bar in your photo has an upright piece (partially circled) between the knob and the spacer bar that held the return spring in the old style powder measure that didn't have the knocker bellcrank. It has a little nub on one side that acted as the measure bar stop. The knocker bellcrank has an arm on the rear that acts as the measure bar stop when it hits a bushing on the measure. If the bellcrank arm is bent or the plastic bushing is broken the measure bar will be forced too far forward and the nub will push the spacer bar forward breaking the plastic pin. Also I can't tell from the photo if the spacer bar is correctly oriented, with the notch on the bellcrank side to allow space for the square drive bushing. Make sure the pivot bolt on the bellcrank isn't overtightened. That can cause the drive bushing to drag against the spacer. Nolan Edited October 15, 2020 by Nolan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolan Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 The powder measure bar in your photo has an upright piece (partially circled) between the knob and the spacer bar that held the return spring in the old style powder measure that didn't have the knocker bellcrank. It has a little nub on one side that acted as the measure bar stop. The knocker bellcrank has an arm on the rear that acts as the measure bar stop when it hits a bushing on the measure. If the bellcrank arm is bent or the plastic bushing is broken the measure bar will be forced too far forward and the nub will push the spacer bar forward breaking the plastic pin. Also I can't tell from the photo is the spacer bar is correctly oriented, with the notch on the bellcrank side to allow space for the square drive bushing. Make sure the pivot bolt on the bellcrank isn't overtightened. That can cause the drive bushing to drag against the spacer. Nolan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helocat Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 16 hours ago, Nolan said: The powder measure bar in your photo has an upright piece (partially circled) between the knob and the spacer bar that held the return spring in the old style powder measure that didn't have the knocker bellcrank. It has a little nub on one side that acted as the measure bar stop. The knocker bellcrank has an arm on the rear that acts as the measure bar stop when it hits a bushing on the measure. If the bellcrank arm is bent or the plastic bushing is broken the measure bar will be forced too far forward and the nub will push the spacer bar forward breaking the plastic pin. Also I can't tell from the photo is the spacer bar is correctly oriented, with the notch on the bellcrank side to allow space for the square drive bushing. Make sure the pivot bolt on the bellcrank isn't overtightened. That can cause the drive bushing to drag against the spacer. Nolan Nolan, thank you for the responce. Since this has broken with the older powder measure, then again with a brand new one out of the box, I am worried its something to do with the drive system pushing up. But I will check to see that the nub on the side is oriented correctly. If its not, then the new one out of the box was assembled that way. Yes the notch on the side is in the correct place for the drive arm to follow it. Pivot and full powder measure move without any restrictions, very easy to cycle by hand off the press. My two replacement plastic parts arrived yesterday. I am putting one into CAD incase I need to just machine a metal one. If I can not find what is making them break, just putting in a new one is sending it to its death as it will clearly brake as the other 4 have. Very tired of cleaning up 1lb of TiteGroup dumped down the machine and into the primer feed system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helocat Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 (edited) Well solution for now. Rather than thinking #5 plastic part will not break without finding anything that will cause this I am switching it to a metal pin. The hole size in the adapter bar is .148 that is basically the minor side for a 10-24 cutting tap. Hand tapped the hole with no drilling. The powder cast aluminum cut easy and left perfect threads. I intentionally did not go all the way through this way the screw bottoms out on the bar and does not put pressure on the moving powder bar. The OD of the screw fits nicely through the top hole in the powder measure. Putting a drop of thread locker on the threads to keep the screw from backing out. Edited October 18, 2020 by helocat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davecoff13 Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 That’s a great fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 that is a great fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stick Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Interesting. I've never broken one of those. I'll have to keep that in mind if one ever breaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intheshaw1 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Interesting fix, my original thought was if the plastic piece is supposed to act like a shear pin and break before further damage to something else. Or it's just plastic to save money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigarmsp226 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Great idea especially with the cost of 1/2 lb. of powder you have to scrap with each breakage (if you do not catch it immediately).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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