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40 sw taper crimp die


22h2

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Lee markets two different Factory Crimp Dies (FCD) one for pistol calibers and another for rifle calibers.  The design of the dies is also very different.  These two factors (perhaps there are others also) leads to a lot of confusion when crimp dies are discussed, especially the Lee brand.

 

Rifle FCD                    Pistol FCD

30-06_factorycrimp.jpg38_FCD.jpg.fcbc138d08e40a72474d53aa37520154.jpg

Edited by muncie21
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thanks Muncie, I'm using the RCBS die and its one die that crimps and seats, but apparently it crimps before it seat. using coated bullets or lead it makes it very difficult and so far impossible to make sure it is done correctly 

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@22h most seating dies that I've used can also be adjusted to crimp/de-bell/remove taper in the same station.  While this can be done, it's more straight forward/simple to seat in one station and remove the bell/crimp in a separate station. Since I seat and crimp/de-bell in two station, I really can't help with your specific issue.

 

There are people that do this, so don't give up hope, it may just take some time as most folks I know use 2 separate stations for these activities.  Good luck!

Edited by muncie21
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If you want to seat and crimp with one die.  You have to about it in a roundabout way. First back the die body out till it will not crimp. Seat 10/20 bullets into cases at your length. Then remove the seating assembly. How start lowering the die body till you get the crimp you desire. Lockdown the die. Reinstall the seating assembly using the remaining seated rounds . How try a new case to seat and crimp at the same time.           It's best to use two dies but it can be done with one.

 

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10 hours ago, 22h2 said:

Hey Ahi, I have done that process but apparently the Rcbs die crimps before final seating it creates a ring around the bullet, it’s only with lead or coated, the jacket bullets are fine. 

Back entire die out a 1/4 turn, then screw the seater in a 1/2 turn. Check ur OAL at that point.
Also, are you using bullets with a crimp groove or smooth wall.  Seems like the 1 die method would go better with bullets with the groove.

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Thanks Joe4d, I will try this, my process was seat the bullet, back the seat stem off, developed crimp then use the existing cartridge to adjust the oal, it works well with that cartridge but the next one not so much. I’m loading on a rl550

 

thanks 

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On 9/20/2020 at 5:31 PM, AHI said:

If you want to seat and crimp with one die.  You have to about it in a roundabout way. First back the die body out till it will not crimp. Seat 10/20 bullets into cases at your length. Then remove the seating assembly. How start lowering the die body till you get the crimp you desire. Lockdown the die. Reinstall the seating assembly using the remaining seated rounds . How try a new case to seat and crimp at the same time.           It's best to use two dies but it can be done with one.

 

This is the answer, right here. It actually takes longer to explain than it does to do.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The newer seat/crimp dies seem to have a much longer taper on them than the older (80’s) dies. The older ones did the taper crimp at about the last .100 -.200 of ram stroke whereas the newer ones are more of a gentle taper right at the start. It makes for better alignment but also makes single seat/crimp more difficult. At least that’s what I’ve found between my old and newer dies. 

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  • 3 months later...
On 9/20/2020 at 4:24 PM, muncie21 said:

... it's more straight forward/simple to seat in one station and remove the bell/crimp in a separate station...

 

Amen to this.  I did tens of thousands of rounds of .40 S&W with RCBS dies. 

 

They worked fine, but I always found it a PITA to make adjustments, and the lube on lead bullets constantly jammed up the seating die and then changed my seating depth, and cleaning it was another PITA. 

 

I went to Dillon dies and never looked back...  I sold my RCBS dies. 

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