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Who has built an Open Gun? Let’s see your pic.


Nic_USPSA_C

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3 hours ago, gnappi said:

I do not know if "assembling" counts as building, but I've converted my Limited custom (.40) and Limited Pro (9mm) for open. Both slides interchange with the two frames.

If I could find a Tanfo frame dot mount I'll be happier.

 

Oh, that's not a Docter, just the scope cover.

 

 

tanfo_limited_pro_limited_custom_f.jpg


 

Those looks nice - do you have trouble with high capacity mags?

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Can't say I built my own. Someday I might get the shortblock, slide, barrel, etc....

 

But I did upgrade things a bit. Having a Bead Blaster helps. Took this CK Arms Hardcore added a Binary Comp, Everglades Mount, Romeo3 XL, Cheely E2 grip, PT Safety. Took the Thumb Rest and cut the front off (that part that had the 5 holes), then rotated it CCW. I drilled and tapped the GP and attached this to the Everglades mount from the back. Made an extended mag release.

 

Then used KG GunKote. Satin Black and Black Chrome. The Black Chrome actually looks grey, as in the pic. Gunkote is really easy to do, if you have a blaster. It holds well up to most chemicals, even lacquer thinner. Just air brush the parts and bake at 325* for an hour. It's actually quite durable, harder than paint. I have done this twice now and for a year it really has held up well. Since adding the E2 Grip I decided to Gunkote everything. Then after a year I can do it again if need, or even change colors. 

 

 

I1seRrt.jpg

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17 minutes ago, Lastcat said:

Can't say I built my own. Someday I might get the shortblock, slide, barrel, etc....

 

But I did upgrade things a bit. Having a Bead Blaster helps. Took this CK Arms Hardcore added a Binary Comp, Everglades Mount, Romeo3 XL, Cheely E2 grip, PT Safety. Took the Thumb Rest and cut the front off (that part that had the 5 holes), then rotated it CCW. I drilled and tapped the GP and attached this to the Everglades mount from the back. Made an extended mag release.

 

Then used KG GunKote. Satin Black and Black Chrome. The Black Chrome actually looks grey, as in the pic. Gunkote is really easy to do, if you have a blaster. It holds well up to most chemicals, even lacquer thinner. Just air brush the parts and bake at 325* for an hour. It's actually quite durable, harder than paint. I have done this twice now and for a year it really has held up well. Since adding the E2 Grip I decided to Gunkote everything. Then after a year I can do it again if need, or even change colors. 

 

 

I1seRrt.jpg


Would like to see a picture.  That’s about as close as a person can get to building one.  I like to see when people work on things themselves.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Nic_USPSA_C said:


 

Those looks nice - do you have trouble with high capacity mags?

The OEM butt pads can work with mods, but I bought new +2 ( actually fit one more comfortably) pads from a seller on Ebay and stock Tanfo mags work fine. 

 

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On 9/12/2020 at 5:41 AM, Nic_USPSA_C said:


That looks great.  I like the cuts on the comp.  Did you do custom cuts on a purchased comp or did you completely build the comp? 

The comp originally is Max Bedel Titatium. I did all the works of my open gun.  Thanks for liking

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17 hours ago, Lastcat said:

Can't say I built my own. Someday I might get the shortblock, slide, barrel, etc....

 

That's the way I'll go in the future.  I built my first 1911 entirely by hand.  It took a lot of work and was very tedious.  It came out perfectly, but I swore I'd never hand fit a slide and frame again.  The next time I ordered the slide and frame together with a machine fit.  That meant the slide would go on the frame, but barely function.  Finishing that was easy and way less time consuming than removing a lot of metal with a file, constantly measuring, and then finishing.  Next I went to a short block.  It was basically the same deal with the slide/frame fit, and the barrel's lower lugs were machined to leave .0016 extra material on them.  The slide would not go over a .200" slide stop pin.  Removing the extra material by hand was tedious.

 

FF to today.  A slide to frame machine fit is a given.  With a gunsmith fit barrel I'll pay one of two local gunsmiths with Wigand jigs to fir the barrel.  $120-$150 for a perfect fit beats the crap out of spending 10 hours fitting by hand.  If it's an Open gun, I want a functioning short block.  I also want a one-piece barrel/comp.  Now that Trubore blanks are becoming scarce or non-existent, the only choice for a conventional build (that I know of) is Brazos.

 

I've been using JEM Guns slides, receivers and frames and everything I've bought has been spot on.  You have no idea how much time and effort is saved when all dimensions are correct and the holes are in the right places.  It also makes life easier in the future if you have to replace components.

 

As much as I like JEM parts, I'm considering Brazos Custom for my next Open build, just because.  It will be pricey, because I am not a dealer for Brazos.  In a couple weeks Bob will have Open short blocks back on the shelf with completely lightened slide with Zig racker and a custom Barsto one-piece barrel/comp.  I talked to Bob at length yesterday and I want to see if some of the tweaks unique to him are actually better than 'standard procedure'.

 

Anyway, the moral of this post is life is too short to be messing around doing a build by hand when things like slide to frame fit contribute so little to accuracy.  If this is your first time, buy a short block from a first rate firm.  The rest of the build will go easily.  If you make a mistake you've ruined a $60 part, not a $600 dollar one.  I used to be a tool & die maker, so I had all the measuring and other tools, and knew how to use them.  I can't imagine buying all that stuff for only one or two by hand builds.  The cheap Chinese stuff available is just not accurate enough for a precision build.

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1 hour ago, zzt said:

Anyway, the moral of this post is life is too short to be messing around doing a build by hand when things like slide to frame fit contribute so little to accuracy.  If this is your first time, buy a short block from a first rate firm.  The rest of the build will go easily.  If you make a mistake you've ruined a $60 part, not a $600 dollar one.  I used to be a tool & die maker, so I had all the measuring and other tools, and knew how to use them.  I can't imagine buying all that stuff for only one or two by hand builds.  The cheap Chinese stuff available is just not accurate enough for a precision build.

 

True that, life is too short. I used to be a CNC Machinist, but have nothing in the shop, not even a Lathe. Got all the Mic's, Gauges, Inside Mics, the works. Good luck on your next build. 

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Just now, Nic_USPSA_C said:


Did you make the comps or does someone manufacture them?  I like the way they look.

The barrels and comps are from Carver Customs.. They both run great and flat at major power factor, but they aren't like a steel frame 2011

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/4/2020 at 11:31 AM, grujo said:

Can you elaborate on the barrel/comp? It looks like a island barrel but the island is coming from the comp? How do you keep it from rotating and interfering with the slide travel? Did you use a normal CM threaded barrel or possibly a shorter one?

 

That is a really cool build!

Thanks.

Edited by Midwest3Gunner
Forgot a question mark.
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On 10/8/2020 at 5:29 PM, Midwest3Gunner said:

Can you elaborate on the barrel/comp? It looks like a island barrel but the island is coming from the comp? How do you keep it from rotating and interfering with the slide travel? Did you use a normal CM threaded barrel or possibly a shorter one?

 

That is a really cool build!

Thanks.

it was built from stock CZ TS,so,i add to regulary size of comp 16mm island 

https://ibb.co/QNwXH7c

when finished machining,i opened a slide from top for island,also on mill.

i used liquid metal on barrel thread and mount comp.after that i put it on machine and drill popple holes.

it cannot rotate,it is fixed by dust cover.only thing what is not good,cleaning of barrel without removing from slide is little tricky,but it is not problem.

i use this liquid metal before,on old comps,if you want to remove comp,just need to heat it and remove.

https://ibb.co/Ykv8CxJ
https://ibb.co/xzK3sSh

 

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On 10/11/2020 at 2:24 PM, grujo said:

it was built from stock CZ TS,so,i add to regulary size of comp 16mm island 

https://ibb.co/QNwXH7c

when finished machining,i opened a slide from top for island,also on mill.

i used liquid metal on barrel thread and mount comp.after that i put it on machine and drill popple holes.

it cannot rotate,it is fixed by dust cover.only thing what is not good,cleaning of barrel without removing from slide is little tricky,but it is not problem.

i use this liquid metal before,on old comps,if you want to remove comp,just need to heat it and remove.

https://ibb.co/Ykv8CxJ
https://ibb.co/xzK3sSh

 

Thanks!

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