midatlantic Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Building a 2011, and have barrel and compensator, frame etc. With barrel installed and locked and compensator screwed on there is a .014-.015 gap between the compensator and slide end. (which was cut to the 1 degree angle.) I've read folks suggest .010-.013. Do I need to file down the comp, or let well enough alone? Can get about 2/3 turn more before the compensator locks the slide. And, I gather people use high-strength loc-tite? I think its green, cause the red gives way too quickly. Other thoughts. (I do need to ream the compensator once its installed.) Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 If you can stand the look, you can have the gap be as wide as you want, you just can't have contact there. Green #620 is what most smiths use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Lathe, Mill or File the comp back until you can get the last turn. Gap .001 or .100 whatever you can live with as stated above. Clearance is clearance! I shoot for .002-004 which has always worked and looks nice. High temp loctite or rockset and drill and tap a set screw in to bottom of the comp with a dimple in the bbl for the set screw to locate! FWIW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Here is a spec sheet on the different grades of Loctite. Generally speaking Reds are for threadlocking. Greens are generally for cylindrical parts. There are two ways to apply Loctite. First is to clean everything thoroughly with alcohol or equiv., then prime with Loctite Primer. When dry, coat male and female threads with Loctite and screw on. Be advised if you used primer you only have 15 seconds to get the comp on a clocked before it sets up so tight you cannot move it. The second method is to skip the primer altogether. You'll have plently of time to get it on a clocked, but you'll have to let it sit undisturbed for at least 30 minutes before you move it. Priming gives the longest lasting bond. Loctite specs.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midatlantic Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 Thanks for the loctite specs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic_USPSA_C Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 I recently struggled with this same issue. I have 1 open gun with a large gap and 1 with a small gap. As stated by others a gap is needed, size is preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38super Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) 40tpi = 1.000"/40= 0.0250"/revolution. Remove 0.015" from slide or comp, finish fit with file. Minimum gap at lock up, there should be 3- 5 thou gap at the top of slide between slide face and backside of comp.. Which means from the center of barrel hole to top of slide should be vertical. This is necessary for the barrel to tilt out of battery without binding. The gap # will vary depending on barrel lock up (0.080-0.125"), link and frame dims. edit: the above dim is the slide travel before the barrel drops out of the upper lugs, sorry 'bout that. Edited September 21, 2020 by 38super Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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