223 to 300 BLK RT1500 trim Problems

[George16]

You need to make the proper adjustment on your trimmer so it’ll trim the cases to the correct size. As for the cases spinning, you could had been using too much case lube and/or the cutter is dull. 

[Agent-OrangeCH]

So the length is correct actually, just the neck is to high.  Here is a pic what the cases look like after the trimming -> https://imgur.com/zybfAaW

I dont think it's a problem of that cause the cases are also spinning when I dont even use case lube.

[George16]

Is the trim die set up correctly and touching the shell plate when it’s in the lowered position? Can you post a picture of your Dillon with the tool head down? 

[AHI]

You do understand that For the trim die to hold the case it sizes the brass. Take the trimer off. set the die to size first. Get that correct. Then put the trimer on and adjust it to trim length.

[Boomstick303]

On 3/26/2021 at 8:42 AM, Tom Freeman said:

My process is tumble clean, run through rollsizer, run through 1050 to deprime/swage/trim to 1.355 then load normally.

 

Do you sort brass and not use certain brass when making 300 Blackout for 223 casings?

[Agent-OrangeCH]

So it seems I figured out what caused the spinning. I had to screw the trim die a bit more, so that it starts to hold the case earlier in price.

 

But no matter what, the .300 neck is always about 1-2mm to high, when I compare my trimmed cases with new .300 blackout cases. When I resize them again with my .300 full-length die, the neck is at the correct position.

 

Here are some pics -> https://imgur.com/a/Bn8NNEK

[AHI]

set the sizing first .then the trim length.     Turn the die in another (1/2 ?) round.  or run a size die after trimming.

Edited February 2, 2022 by AHI

[Agent-OrangeCH]

@AHI thats what I have down now and like I mentioned before, no matter how deep I screew the die in, the neck is always to high.

[George16]

2 hours ago, Agent-OrangeCH said:

@AHI thats what I have down now and like I mentioned before, no matter how deep I screew the die in, the neck is always to high.

Have you double checked to make sure your trim die is .300 black and not .223? 

[AHI]

for black out there use to be two trim dies. a ruffcut (first step) and a finish die.

 

Did you set the die to cam over? Not just touch shell plate.

[Agent-OrangeCH]

@AHI yes, thats the case for the GSI trim dies but this doenst apply to my Whidden die.

 

I will contact Whidden and ask them about it.

[Tom Freeman]

On 1/31/2022 at 11:10 AM, Boomstick303 said:

 

Do you sort brass and not use certain brass when making 300 Blackout for 223 casings?

 

The only thing I sort for is non US headstamp brass.  Some offshore brands can give you necks that are too thick for 300 brass.

 

Lapua, PMC and a few others are good.  The rest arent worth my time.

[AHI]

3 hours ago, Agent-OrangeCH said:

@AHI yes, thats the case for the GSI trim dies but this doenst apply to my Whidden die.

 

I will contact Whidden and ask them about it.

Let us know what they say.

[Boomstick303]

On 2/2/2022 at 12:40 PM, Tom Freeman said:

The rest arent worth my time.

 

I have heard the same thing about overseas brass as well.  Just curious, if you only shoot Subsonic ammo out you a 300 Blackout, does the brass require much of a trim?  The powder charge is close to a pistol round than a rifle round. 

[Tom Freeman]

8 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

I have heard the same thing about overseas brass as well.  Just curious, if you only shoot Subsonic ammo out you a 300 Blackout, does the brass require much of a trim?  The powder charge is close to a pistol round than a rifle round. 

 

Minimal case length growth.  I initially trim to 1.355 and let it ride from there for the most part.

[AHI]

On 2/2/2022 at 12:52 PM, Agent-OrangeCH said:

@AHI yes, thats the case for the GSI trim dies but this doenst apply to my Whidden die.

 

I will contact Whidden and ask them about it.

So it's been a while any word from Whidden?

[ezra650]

I'm also having the same issue with case spin using the whidden trim die for 300blk and the RT1500. I also noticed running the machine faster prevented the spinning (as mentioned above via Dillon tech support). I could run the trim die lower to touch the shellplate and size earlier, but then I would not be able to fit vacuum shroud under the trimmer and I do not want to mess with designing a low profile exhaust shroud at the moment.

For now I will run the press at a faster pace to prevent the spinning. Exploring a double sided short trim head setup sounds like an option with a rough cut die and 2nd trimmer later on. 

[Tom Freeman]

4 hours ago, ezra650 said:

I'm also having the same issue with case spin using the whidden trim die for 300blk and the RT1500. I also noticed running the machine faster prevented the spinning (as mentioned above via Dillon tech support). I could run the trim die lower to touch the shellplate and size earlier, but then I would not be able to fit vacuum shroud under the trimmer and I do not want to mess with designing a low profile exhaust shroud at the moment.

For now I will run the press at a faster pace to prevent the spinning. Exploring a double sided short trim head setup sounds like an option with a rough cut die and 2nd trimmer later on. 

 

Try less lube.  Too much or too little Hornady One Shot is bad.

 

Too much the cases spin.  Too little and you can get galling in the die.

[Sigarmsp226]

First off - I know this is an old thread but this is another example of the BE Forum search feature. This place is like a library when it comes to information. 
 

Second - This thread taught me so much as to what I needed to have and do to be successful in converting LC 5.56 brass to 300 B/O.  I am trimming on my XL650 to save a little $$ on the toolhead cost ($55 vs. $275) with plans on converting these using a two step process. 
 

1 - Convert (resize) and trim on the XL650 using a Lyman Trim Die and my new RT1500 (and the double tap process at the top of the trim cycle DOES make for a slightly cleaner 300 case mouth) and then into the Concrete mixer with SS pins for a one hour tumble (clean up any rough case opening edges and remove the Dillon case lube).  Dry in the sun or in my George Forman oven. 

 

2 - Several handfuls of clean shiny brass get put into a plastic tub and with a few shakes, about 75% - 85% of the case mouths are facing up. Give the cases a very light spraying of One Shot and then into the RL1100 case feeder they go. Cycle thru the following set up - FW Arms deprimer(to make double sure all primers and their openings are clear), swage with FW Arms hold down die, and then each case gets a little case neck love from a Lyman M-die. Rounds are then dropped into a tub for future loading (small amount of One Shot remains on the cases).

 

I know what you are thinking - DUDE - spend the money and but a short trim die for the RL1100 and do all of this in one step. I will when funds allow but for today I had to convince myself that I could successfully do this - and I did. A Dillon RL1100 short trim die is in my future purchase for a one pass process and half the cycles on my 63 year old shoulder (still working great with no health related issues). 
 

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who posted their personal experiences in this thread. This thread was my guide and motivation in actually - “Doing This”…….I will be shooting a lot more 300 B/O going forward….Thanks Again…
 

[George16]

@Sigarmsp226, if I were you, I would deprime and swaged on the 1100 first and then resize and trim on the 650. Doing it this way, the primer pockets get cleaned during the tumbling process and also cut down the drying time.

[Sigarmsp226]

George - Great idea I had not considered. The good news is I am two thirds of the required way to being a sure enough processing monkey. After pulling that handle 1500 times to trim my first set of LC brass into 300 B/O I decided to pull the trigger on a DA3000.  It is on order now (Dillon said it should ship in about 2-3 weeks) and I have a 223 conversion for my RL1100 so as soon as I get the DA3000 set up I will follow your recommendation. The final piece would be to buy a short trim head die for the RL1100 but they are $275 so that is going to have to wait (if I wait until the first of the year this same toolhead could be $300-$325 I fear)…... 
 

Decided to pull the trigger on the DA3000 because Dillon always seems to put in place their price increases at the first of each year and a 5% to 10% price increase on a DA3000 would hurt my feelings since I was planning on getting one sooner or later.

 

Thanks George for your feedback - Always appreciate your kindness and guidance. Hope you and yours have a Happy Thanksgiving Sir…Mark