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S2 Carry Optics, talk me into buying one


Overscore

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Please talk me into getting a Shadow 2 and equipping it with the spare Trijicon SRO I have lying around.  Also, please convince me that I should not just get one, but that I should also have ________________________ done to it by _____________________, or I should get the _________________ kit from ______________________ to make it a little better than it is out of the box.

 

By those blank lines, I'm talking about the things I've heard about but never really paid much attention to, such as pro kits from Cajun, or some sort of custom work from CZ-Custom.  Assume that I don't care what the cost of anything is, what are the best things I can do with a Shadow 2 to make it my ideal gun for carry optics?  I've been playing the IDPA and USPSA games for years, but always just shot my carry guns, a normal 75B and an 85 Combat that I got milled for an optic when the CO USPSA division eliminated the capacity limits.  I'm thinking about breaking the rules I established for myself a long time ago and getting a gun whose sole purpose is competition, although I won't be surprised if I just wind up using the S2 as my every day carry.

 

So, please spend my money and guide me.

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Do it, just do it.

 

Definitely swap out the hammer for either the CGW race hammer or CZC competition hammer (both are great), and might as well do the short-reset disco and springs while you're at it. You won't regret it for a second. Most S2's are good out of the box, the race/comp hammers make them great. Get an extended firing pin if you use CCI primers and/or just want a little insurance and/or want to go lighter than a 13lb hammer spring to get your DA-pull down.

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9 hours ago, Overscore said:

So, please spend my money and guide me.

 

In addition to what others have said above, in my experience with my S2, swapping the factory metal grips with an OFM ones can be an improvement too. I just installed a pair of palm swell bogies from Lok Grips, and I love them. They fit my hands much better, and it's a lot grippier than the factory ones. Other choices are Armanov, Henning, etc.

 

Have fun spending your money! I know I did 😆

 

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BTW, If you end up doing the extended firing pin and reduced power spring, if you use the CGW one, immediately ditch their reduced power firing pin spring and use the Rami one from CZC or “Ultimate” one from Eric G... the CGW RPFPS spring is flimsy and I wouldn’t trust one to last more than a week, or just days if you dryfire a bit...

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1 hour ago, ck1 said:

BTW, If you end up doing the extended firing pin and reduced power spring, if you use the CGW one, immediately ditch their reduced power firing pin spring and use the Rami one from CZC or “Ultimate” one from Eric G... the CGW RPFPS spring is flimsy and I wouldn’t trust one to last more than a week, or just days if you dryfire a bit...

I fully agree with this. It happened to me during a live fire practice. I ended up installing the stock firing pin and firing spring while waiting for the Rami spring. I was also surprised that even with the 11.5# main spring, my shadow 2 was still able to light off CCI pistol primers. 
 

 

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4 minutes ago, Overscore said:

As soon as I find one and order it, the Shadow 3 will be announced.  You can thank me for triggering that event when it happens.

 

Shadow 3? ...hope not this soon lol.

 

S2OR's are out there (though, nit many of 'em), you may just have to grab one off an auction site or something and have it shipped to your FFL to get one... BTW, helps if you search: "CZ 91251", that's how I found mine right after they were released for the USA...

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12 hours ago, ck1 said:

Definitely swap out the hammer for either the CGW race hammer or CZC competition hammer (both are great), and might as well do the short-reset disco and springs while you're at it. You won't regret it for a second. Most S2's are good out of the box, the race/comp hammers make them great. Get an extended firing pin if you use CCI primers and/or just want a little insurance and/or want to go lighter than a 13lb hammer spring to get your DA-pull down.

 

 

I've got an S2 with the SRO, and I've done the basic drop in parts.  Hammer and recoil springs, ext firing pin, lok grips.

 

But I'm curious what kind of difference the hammer upgrade makes?

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1 hour ago, wdfwguy said:

 

 

I've got an S2 with the SRO, and I've done the basic drop in parts.  Hammer and recoil springs, ext firing pin, lok grips.

 

But I'm curious what kind of difference the hammer upgrade makes?

 

The race/competition hammers greatly improve the single-action, pretty much removes any/all of the small amount of creep the stock hammers still have for a more crisp "glass rod" break in SA... and might be a "placebo effect" but I kinda think it improves the double-action a bit too (or just seems to). The race/comp hammers have changed geometry, differently cut hooks and the DA shelfs are different, it's pretty much impossible to alter a stock hammer to duplicate it. Usually yields around a ~3lb SA pull with most of any creep/trash gone.

 

(If great vs good is enough, stop reading now lol. If there's any tiny amount of perceivable creep that's still present, or you want amazing vs great : read below lol)

 

- Beyond swapping the hammer, the final and fully OCD step for a truly amazing CZ SA pull is to slightly re-profile the sear face's angle to remove most/all of the hammer-camming all CZ's have (if you pull really super slow in SA you can see the hammer cam back first a tiny bit before releasing and going forward, if you eliminate most or all of that the effect is amazing), but you have to make sure to keep the sear face bone straight and be careful to not round off any corners or the hammer-hook/sear engagement won't remain safe, like a 1911, the sear/hooks need good/solid engagement... usually delivers a 2lb (or less) SA with zero trash, as good or better than any 1911's SA. But, to do it right, and not ruin a sear or make the gun unsafe, it requires resigning yourself to disassembling/reassembling the gun a few/bunch of times in order to monitor how the hammer-camming is "disappearing" to get it right, because you can usually count how many swipes across the 600-grit it takes on your hands. If one doesn't have the patience for that then they shouldn't even try it and just send it to a pro (though, what's funny is that this process used to be a "normal" part of a pro CZ trigger-job from the major players, but I've seen a few so-called "pro package trigger jobs" from one of the major popular shops lately where they just swapped parts and skipped this step on dude's guns, and once I pointed it out and the dudes felt my gun's trigger they were kinda bummed having spent $$$)... that said sears are like $8 so if you go too far, trying again isn't that expensive (ask me how I know lol)... BTW, I'd only recommend doing this with a race/comp hammer because the hooks/dimensions are different than a stock hammer's, and doing this to a stock hammer requires removing too much material to eliminate the hammer-camming. After installing a race/comp hammer, all it takes is a brand-new/untouched piece of 600-grit (like with 1911 trigger-jobs, going too smooth can actually rob you of some "crispness", leave the 800, 1000+ grit and polish in the toolbox, you don't need it), a hard perfectly flat surface, patience, and time.

Edited by ck1
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12 hours ago, Malarky112 said:

Are you talking about an Optics Ready S2?  You mentioned IDPA, the OR is still too heavy for IDPA without additional milling.  Good to go for USPSA of course.  Don't forget some Lok grips

 

 

I'd be fine with its being just USPSA.  I shoot USPSA every month, and shoot IDPA maybe once a year if that, but if the S2 doesn't fit in the rules, I'll use my CZ 85C in CO.

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My S2 optic ready is bone stock except for a spring change. i am using a Vortex Venom. Dialed in a 147 grain load today on the chrony. Decided to do a 50 yard group to see what it would do at that distance. I squatted down and supprted on a post and it gave me a 3 shot 1 1/2 inch  group. One and a half inches. At 50 yards. Stock gun. No tricky parts. Not an Orange, not an AccuShadow. Just an off the shelf S2 optic ready. 

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10 hours ago, hal1955 said:

My S2 optic ready is bone stock except for a spring change. i am using a Vortex Venom. Dialed in a 147 grain load today on the chrony. Decided to do a 50 yard group to see what it would do at that distance. I squatted down and supprted on a post and it gave me a 3 shot 1 1/2 inch  group. One and a half inches. At 50 yards. Stock gun. No tricky parts. Not an Orange, not an AccuShadow. Just an off the shelf S2 optic ready. 

Now what bullet, powder, oal, etc to get that group? 

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Campro 147grain,  3.4gr. vv320, federal primer, blazer range pickup brass, plunk and spin test in chamber for oal of 1.105.... 880 fps in my gun.

Edited by hal1955
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ordered one from Elk Co. Ammo & Arms. Great deal. $1429 shipped. I found them on GunBroker but ordered from their site. I just got notification that it hit my Ffl today! Hoping I can make it out there to pick up and put a few rounds through.

SRO from Primary Arms headed this way Friday and a plate from CH.

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Gun and sight in hand. Waiting on plate.

A bit disappointed with the sale for the sight. Listed as new at retail price. It appears to me to be one someone returned. Small tool marks on the adjustments and missing the cleaning cloth. I emailed them and am waiting to hear back.

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2 hours ago, mpmo said:

Gun and sight in hand. Waiting on plate.

A bit disappointed with the sale for the sight. Listed as new at retail price. It appears to me to be one someone returned. Small tool marks on the adjustments and missing the cleaning cloth. I emailed them and am waiting to hear back.


Lol I don’t think any of the 3 SRO’s I bought came with a cleaning cloth... you’d figure at ~$500 they wouldn’t forget to throw them in the box 😝

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