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Kimber 1911 45 for IDPA - Set up


Mikemiller69gs

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Same deal, I shot .45 at the small local club this past weekend to conserve my small primers and 9mm ammo for bigger matches.

 

You don't need a "setup" or different springs.  Assuming it is functionally reliable, just go shooting.  

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Like Jim said if it runs now, just go out and shoot it.

 

If you want to check a couple of things "just to be sure" you can verify the extractor geometry, deflection, and tension are correct (LINK).  You can also verify the magazine isn't contacting the ejector (LINK).  Make sure the trigger over-travel screw (if it has one) is secure.  If you're concerned about springs and if this is a 5" pistol, you can drop in a Wolff 14lb or 16lb recoil spring and a 23lb mainspring (hammer spring).  Other than that about all I can think of that's simple and quick is to lube it up.

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On 8/11/2020 at 6:21 AM, Steve in Allentown PA said:

Like Jim said if it runs now, just go out and shoot it.

 

If you want to check a couple of things "just to be sure" you can verify the extractor geometry, deflection, and tension are correct (LINK).  You can also verify the magazine isn't contacting the ejector (LINK).  Make sure the trigger over-travel screw (if it has one) is secure.  If you're concerned about springs and if this is a 5" pistol, you can drop in a Wolff 14lb or 16lb recoil spring and a 23lb mainspring (hammer spring).  Other than that about all I can think of that's simple and quick is to lube it up.

 

Good advice here. I run a lighter mainspring but I only run my handloads through the gun so I know it works.

 

Dialing down the recoil spring will change how the gun resets (just like how it does in a CZ). You want it stout enough to function reliably, but light enough that the sights return to zero with minimal dipping. Basically, go to the range with a bag of springs in different weights and swap them out until you like how it runs. The joy of the 1911 is that you don't even need tools to do this, lol.

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