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Stock 2 9mm ejected brass hitting red dot


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Where/how do you fix ejection issue where brass come out at 5/6 clock directions?  Some are hitting the red dot on the way out. 

9mm minor on a stroked Stock 2 slide, 8lbs recoil spring.  


Is it the ejector that I need to tune?  Or try heavier recoil spring?

The only search result I found is below, but I am having a hard time to visualize this onto an actual ejector... I see the first angle already built onto the ejector, but the key part to make the ejected brass go to the right,  I don't see any angle on the ejector right now, but I may misunderstood where the angle should be.  


Can someone help explain with my picture where the 2nd angle should be?  Thanks.



On 12/11/2019 at 9:00 PM, GrumpyOne said:

You need to angle the ejector face. It'll need two slight angles. You want the brass to contact the ejector on the bottom of the ejector, so a slight back angle needs to be ground into the ejector. This will make the brass go up when ejected. Next, you need a small angle ground onto the ejector towards the breech face. This will make the brass contact the ejector on the outside of the ejector first, causing the brass to go right. Posting a pic of the current ejector will help.



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Spending the day trying to figure out what/how to make brass eject 3 clock. 


From what I observe, the ejector angel/face does not matter that much, because it's already moving at an optimal position when hitting the brass rim.  However, I may be totally wrong, as it's hard to actually observe how the ejector really hits the brass rim in live fire.  My manual "simulation" may not be what actually happens at all. 






What I did find out when comparing 2 slides, one with 3 clock ejection and the other with 5/6 clock ejection pattern, is that the distance between the extractor and the breech face are different.   I also recorded some slow mo when manually pushing the sear cage to push the brass out on both of these slides.  Most times, the patterns are the same as in real live fire. 


Looks like I need to file off the foot of the extractor a bit to make the extractor hook closer to the breech face.  I will test that out. 



Edited by Dazhi
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With the ejector in the gun, angling the top of the ejector face towards the rear of the gun makes the ejector hit the head stamp on the brass lower, making the brass eject in a more upward motion. Angle the ejector in the other direction will make the ejector hit the brass higher, forcing the brass in a more downward motion. By angling the side face of the ejector, you can make the ejector hit the brass further to the outside of the head stamp, instead of it hitting a flat face on the ejector. If the brass hits the bottom of the ejector first, the brass tilts up, until it also hits the top of the ejector, this gives it the upward "lift". If the brass hits the outside of the ejector as it hits the bottom of the ejector, it forces the brass up and to the right (as there is room for the brass to go right, as the inside part of the ejector has been angled). It doesn't take a whole lot of either angle filed onto the ejector face to make a change of where the brass goes.  I'm pretty sure there is a thread on ejector tuning on the CZ boards. Or, look up 1911 ejector tuning, that should give you a pretty good idea. 



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