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Honcho Open Shooters...Rookie Question


VU2AKILL
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Thinking about a Hocho with 3 barrels: a 40s&w (if i need to go limited),  a 1 port 9mm and a 3 port 9mm major.   Since it is so easy to swap barrels, I am wondering if a guy could shoot 9 major for matches with the 3 port barrel and then swap in the 1 port barrel and have a decent PF load for practice sessions that would feel close to the same as the 9 major load.  Maybe be able to run coated bullets for practice in regular 9mm to and JHP for 9 major loads.  I am still shooting carry ops and have very little experience with comped pistols but it seems like it is feasible.   Any input from more experienced open shooters, specifically Honcho shooters??

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20 minutes ago, VU2AKILL said:

Thinking about a Hocho with 3 barrels: a 40s&w (if i need to go limited),  a 1 port 9mm and a 3 port 9mm major.   Since it is so easy to swap barrels, I am wondering if a guy could shoot 9 major for matches with the 3 port barrel and then swap in the 1 port barrel and have a decent PF load for practice sessions that would feel close to the same as the 9 major load.  Maybe be able to run coated bullets for practice in regular 9mm to and JHP for 9 major loads.  I am still shooting carry ops and have very little experience with comped pistols but it seems like it is feasible.   Any input from more experienced open shooters, specifically Honcho shooters??

Regardless of gun make you should practice with match ammo

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I would stay away from the Honcho, good in theory but a TON of problems. The main one being the locking block can crack and render the gun useless. Also, the gun has to run machine gun wet for it to function properly and when it gets dirty it won't run either. If you want a multi caliber gun I would have a builder like Infinity or Rafferty etc do it. I have owned a Honcho and a buddy owns one that has had major issues. PT tried to reinvent the wheel which comes at a cost. Stick to a 2011 platform made by a reputable builder. Oh and practice with what you shoot in matches so you can get used to recoil and feel of the gun. Just my .02, good luck!

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I’ve got 2 honchos. Haven’t had a single malfunction let alone breakage yet. I’ve owned open guns by several top manufacturers and by far the least issues of any of them yet have been the honchos. I paid full price for all my guns not sponsored by any of them. This is my first season on the Phoenix Trinity’s so will see how they hold up. No complaints so far.

Odds are you can get a lemon from any manufacturer though.

Unless I start seeing locking block issues, I greatly prefer the honcho locking block over the barrel link (standard 2011) style.

Opinions will of course be varied.


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I have watched quite a few Honchos run in matches, all have been in open configuration. They have all been perfect except one that didn't like an 170mm STI mag. My personal observations of their reliability in matches played a large part in my decision to order one. 

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Seen a few broken locking blocks already.

 

Back to the OPs question... Shoot the configuration you will shoot in the match all the time. You will not have the same recoil impulse if you dont hav the same barrel/comp with the same load.

Edited by Maximis228
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The only similar swap in the past was 2 top ends, one 9mm Major and the other 38SC.  Practiced w 9MM major and shot 38SC at matches (and left the brass).

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13 minutes ago, VU2AKILL said:

Thanks for the replies.  Just trying to be thrifty to get more practice shots in per dollar spent.  Seems that thrifty and open guns don't mix well!!  LOL

 

The best way to be cheap about ammo is to buy in bulk with friends. Order pallets of projectiles direct from the manufacture. Find a person willing to do bulk primers with you (Maybe a smaller ammo manufacture). Buy powder from powder valley/similar by maxing out the hazmat. You will need to buy a ridiculous amount of powder to get any sort of worth while price break there.

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18 minutes ago, AverageJoeShooting said:

Leaving 38sc brass is the same as throwing hundreds down on the ground as you walk. 

 

Pretty baller move

Guys squadding with him just to scavenge his brass!! LOL

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Just now, Silverscooby27 said:

Serious question. Can’t the locking block be replaced in like 2 seconds so you can have spares with you and maybe just prophylactically replace them at a frequent interval?

A part that is so important for lock up and accuracy shouldn't be that easy to just drop in.

 

If it is, then accuracy suffers.

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2 minutes ago, Silverscooby27 said:

Sounds like you don’t know for sure. Anyone else?

 

If a barrel moves while locked up... then accuracy suffers. Loose fitting drop in parts will cause this. Drop in parts by nature have loose tolerances so they will work 100% without fitting.

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The locking block is held in place by the slide stop cross-pin. One of the very few parts on a 1911/2011 design that's "close" to drop-in is that part. Variations in the diameter of this pin runs between .196-.200" generally, with some few being smaller than .196". The PT locking block fits very securely between the barrel and locking block and slide/breech-face cutout. With the tolerances that PT has been holding, a spare locking block should be "close" to drop in. Better yet, ask them yourself if they'd sell a fitted spare....they'll say yes...I'm pretty sure!

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If a barrel moves while locked up... then accuracy suffers. Loose fitting drop in parts will cause this. Drop in parts by nature have loose tolerances so they will work 100% without fitting.

A properly fitted barrel on a 2011 just drops in. Like a gun set up in multi caliber to run 9mm major with spare 38SC.

This is same concept. Locking block is a fitted part. Once fitted it drops in...


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10 minutes ago, kujo929 said:


A properly fitted barrel on a 2011 just drops in. Like a gun set up in multi caliber to run 9mm major with spare 38SC.

This is same concept. Locking block is a fitted part. Once fitted it drops in...


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A "properly fit barrel" and a "drop in barrel" are not the same

 

Dropping in a "pre-fit" part is not the same as a part being "drop in"

 

All fitted parts drop in once they are fit. Otherwise you'd be refitting your barrel every time you cleaned it.

Edited by Racinready300ex
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A "properly fit barrel" and a "drop in barrel" are not the same
 
Dropping in a "pre-fit" part is not the same as a part being "drop in"
 
All fitted parts drop in once they are fit. Otherwise you'd be refitting your barrel every time you cleaned it.

Yes. That is the point. The locking blocks on a honcho are fitted parts...


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I don’t own a 2011, but the logical and prepared part of my brain says to buy a back up block and spend an afternoon (or whatever, again don’t know 2011s that well) fitting the part to the gun then toss it in your bag. That way if/when you need the part at a match, it has already been fitted to your gun and should be good to go and “drop in”. After you use your spare order another extra and do the same process. Seems like a decent way to go about it if there is that much worry behind the part breaking, no?


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